My Rubicon Express lift came with quick disconnect sway bar links, but I never ran into an obstacle where I needed to take them off. The alignment was off or something because it was a pain in the ass to slip them back on. After going through a lot of ice and mud the pin just fall off and the sway bar links just hang so i got tired of it and just ripped it out. I'll put it back in if i get tired of the body roll on the street or i find a better disco setup.
That's an odd spot to measure from. Different bumpers, lift sizes, and tire sizes will affect this. Mine measures 25-1/2" from bottom of front bumper lip to ground. A good way to compare only suspension lift hight with aftermarket fender flares is to measure from the top of the axle tube to the frame rail for front and rear. Mine measures:10-3/4" from top of front axle tube to frame11-1/2" from top of rear axle tube to frameA good way to compare total body ground clearance which takes into account lift and tire size is to measure from the ground to the Uniframe behind the control arms and in front of front leaf spring eye. Mine Measures:19-1/2" from behind control arms from frame to ground21-1/2" from in front of front leaf spring eye from frame to groundI'm running a 4.5" Rubicon Express lift with worn 35" KM2's
+NickInTimeFilms Great video! We are redesigning the bar for your year
model based on your suggestion. We would like to send you one once they are
available.
Have the same setup don't know why its like that also i have dual steering
stabilizer from RC and upper and lower control arms and rear shackle
relocation bracket going to add more lift this summer
How is the rear shackle relocation bracket they sell? I was looking into it but flex isn't a huge concern for me and If I got this bracket I'd probably have to lift the front a little to keep it even.
I wonder why it's a couple inches shorter than the stock one? Maybe the, V8
ZJ steering upgrade would have been a better way of doing it. I am planning
on ordering those heavy duty parts once I need a new alignment.
In 91 Moog discontinued the Tie-Rod Tie-Rod-Ends Jeep was using so they had to use different ones which were an inch longer. An inch on both sides means they had to take two inches off the Tie Rod for it to fit properly again. Rough Country went with the shorter size so that they appealed to a larger number of model years. If I ever need new TRE's I'll get the longer ones for proper thread engagement. I think IronRock offroad sells the longer one but not sure, and for cheaper too.As for the ZJ Tie Rod, it will work fine, but that one less TRE that you can easily change out when they go bad.
Yep it makes the original look really crap lol, and shorter would bother me
too, its almost as if they compromised the length to fit a variety of
vehicles, but not very well.
The tie rod end ball joints look very weak and watery in comparison to the
massive wheels, so they wear out quicker, you need monster truck ones lol
:D
It seems 91 and newer Xj's use a smaller tie rod because they have longer tie rod ends so it would fit those models just fine. I've looked into larger Tie Rod Ends and they sell ones with larger shanks but not sure about the physical ball. And even then I have seen any data that suggest that they will wear slower than the small ones. If they snap, I know I have to go bigger. haha.
89 XJ UPDATE: Rough Country HD Tie Rod Install
1989 Jeep Cherokee XJ Pioneer 4.0L I6 Renix AW4 NP231 This is just an update video following up on my experience with Rough Country from this video here: ...
+duketyler37 I did replace the drag link, but it was with another stock one. They are solid steel unlike the tie rod and you can replace one of the tie rods on it. That's more then I've seen for any other kit out there. There are either 1-ton Inverted-T systems that are destined for tie rod roll, or they have non-replaceable ends. Nothing tickled my fancy so I just kept it stock
+Rodney Williams Well you can use the tie rod as is, you could return it and wait the 60 days to buy the longer one, or you can look else where. I hear Ironman 4x4fab has a 38" Tie Rod but that is too long unless they use even shorter tie rod ends or something. 36" is about as big as you can go for the older models. Shop around and see what everyone has.
+Rodney Williams What year is your jeep? It's only a little short on 84-90 model XJ's. And even then it still fits and works just fine. The Prototype Tie Rod is going into mass production and will be available for purchase in about 60 days.
Tried calling rc. To see if they could make me one 36" like they did for
you?
I have a 90 xj question is, are the TRE. Longer on the 91 to 2000 model?
Could I just use those TRES and have good thread engagement??
What would be another good HDTie Rod that would be the proper length for
good thread engagement??
Thanks for you videos too!
Ryan
Dude thanks nice rig excellent videos saved my a** a few times!1btw found a tie rod with ends 145.00 38" lronman4x4, still might go with RC. though nice guys to do that for you..Thanks Ryan
The 91-01 tie rod ends will fit your older 90 model and give you the proper thread engagement with the current model tie rod rough country sells. They won't be putting the longer rod into production for an estimated 60 days. There are a few other companies that sell hd tie rods but I'm not sure if they are the right length either. Call and ask if you're curious
Hey i was watching ur monsterliner videos and im planning to do the same
to my 95 xj.I was thinking that if you wanted to fix the problem of the gap
you get after removing the carpeting and pad you can get some thick weather
stripping and put it on the bottom edge of the center console and wat not
that would sovle the gap problem.Btw great job on the video its like the
only one ive been able to find being done on an xj and how is the
monsterliner holding up ?
+countrystyle88 Not bad. I'm sure the carpet did a better job but the Monstaliner is way better then just bare metal. The jeep is loud in general so i don't notice the difference.
+countrystyle88 I appreciate your comment but I feel like it would make more sense on the Monstaliner video. lol I thought about some kind of weather stripping but I don't care anymore. It's holding up great and I'm so glad I did it. I don't have to worry about leaky doors in the rain or taking on water, it just flow rights out. No more rust or mildew. Perfect for what I needed,
+brianwilsonbeachboys What are you looking for? This Tie Rod is designed for stock ends which I'm running right now. I prefer Moog but they discontinued our Tie Rod TREs a while ago so Mevotech is a decent second. If you want, order the Tie Rod TREs for a 91+ cherokee and the Tie Rod that Rough Country sells now and they will fit perfectly together. Moog # ES3094L & ES3095R. If you're looking at larger options, V8 Grand Cherokees use a thicker shank size (the threaded part) but still have the same size ball and stud taper so no drilling is required. You would need the GC Tie Rod to go with though. Other then that you can look at 1 ton steering options that have larger studs and require reaming out the knuckle tapers to fit for more beef. I'm going to run my stock parts until something snaps, then upgrade it. That day may never come now that I have the HD Tie Rod.
Removing a stuck XJ tie rod end
Using a propane torch and a couple of big pipe wrenches to remove a very stuck tie rod end. This is off of my 1991 Jeep Comanche but will apply to Cherokees ...
Ouch! I nearly did the same thing myself. :) Glad I could help.
James' XJ tackles Tie Rod Canyon
James and crew hit the rocks on Cinco de Mayo in his '98 Jeep Cherokee. It has 4.88 gears, ARB locker in the rear Chrysler 8.25, lunchbox locked in the front ...
It may just be me, but it looks like your tie rod is a bit bent already?
The tie rod drag tube is just a hollow tube and from my personal experience
I bent mine, but I also bent a "heavy-duty" one which costed $170 or
something.. If you hit the tie rod hard enough to bend it, it doesn't
matter what brand and or type you use, usually you will bend it regardless.
Just my two cents.