Xantrex sale Videos

Xantrex recommends 4/0 cable in the owner's manual. You "might" be able to use skinny cable, but it might also get the same results as several others did on the Amazon reviews. The purpose of my video was to show what it can "actually" do. Specifications are nice, but until it's actually proven to work, they are just numbers on paper. I suggest you actually try your theory about 1/0 cable and a 3000 Watt load, then put the video online...

I bought this inverter thanks to this video. Just got it today. Unfortunately I don't have my heavy duty cables just yet, so for the time being I hooked it up with some relatively thin automotive jumper cables. So far so good, I really like the quality of the unit. P.S. I also have Killawatt and an ammeter to do tests on my gear, glad to see I'm not the only one lol

Cable is dependent and calculated for loads that last over 4 hours of constant use, under NEC guide lines, at 75° in conduit. The rules for free air calculate different. I doubt xantrex would state inverter at 2000 watts constant, it would not pass the UL test. You do understand your service feed to your home, is only #2/0 for a 200 amp rated service right.

Xantrex recommends no longer than a 6' cable. As long as you're not planning on running near its capacity, a 4/0 cable will likely work fine. Remember, the inverter will produce heat, keep that in mind if running it for extended periods. Good luck!

I dont know who said it cant run 1500 watts, but they need to read the manual. It clearly says rated for 2000 constant or 3200 watts short cycle. You don't need 4/0, 1/0 is the.biggest you will need up to 3000 watts single phase.

What do you reccomend running for cable thickness for this guy given a... ehh lets say 20 foot run? I came across one of these and wanna throw it in the trunk of my car

o no it will i have one its not as good as my outback but then its not 1700 dollars for the money its a very good inverter

Nice, just got the 1000 for my FJ. Glad to see it holds up. And yes I am installing 1/0 as recommended for the 1000 :)

the basic joe never get beyond 1 battery an maybe a 10ga wire? we have 2 inverter (1) 400watt (1) 600watt

I strongly recommend a pure sinewave inverter especially if your fridge has a computer in it Or a cheaper option is to buy an older model fridge that doesn't have a computer in it Mine is a 1980 model Kelvinator and it takes inverter power quite well It's not the most power efficient unit but it does the job sinewave or not (It shut off quickly at first power up because the thermostat tripped)Generally anything from the 90s and under will have no trace of a computer in it

+mewantbrainsI think the electronic system in the fridge is the case cause the unit had warmed up a bit. I waited a long time before using the inverter hoping power would come back on. Later on after that power outage I did some reading about this and the fridge's electronics are most likely the culprit. It's a new fridge and many new models these days have some circuitry in them that will not accept modified sine wave power sources.

+Matt In Illinois I think that was caused by the thermostat in your fridge It saw the temp was sufficient and it shut off the compressor The same thing happened to mine the first time I tried powering it from an inverter when I started going off grid If the compressor didn't restart at all until you connected it to the mains then maybe there is a computer in the fridge that detected the sinewave wasn't perfect and it shut down the motor to prevent damage

+Raymond Cruz We recently lost power in our town due to a storm. (A tree fell and pulled the wires out of our breaker box.) When the electrician was fixing it we were talking about copper thieves and such and somehow the conversation came to the kind of wire he is using. He mentioned that it is OK to use aluminum on the feeder lines according to our local code but he preferred copper. He said the only real difference is aluminum doesn't conduct as well but if your service is less than 200 amp it is fine. I am glad he used copper. I figure the better the conductor the better for me even if my service doesn't really need it.

+roger brandt Mine is actually only about 60 when active and about 15 when idle.

Yes, that's my point. The video discusses  temporary power when there's a 'blackout' or any other time the load center / panelboard main breaker is open.  A grid tie inverter would not be used in this situation.

When there's blackout it is different story

+Artjoms Pugacovs What good would a grid tie inverter be during a power outage? There is no grid! This guy knows what he's talking about, you clearly do not.

I keep watching your videos. What a great collection! I have learned so much in the last few days!After watching your UPS to Inverter conversion series I thought maybe I can do that instead and just feed my UPS directly from the marine batteries. Since my UPS already has a max of about 2000 Watts I hope that I would not need to do any upgrades. I do not plan to ever use this with loads of more than 1500 Watts. My plan is to only use it for up to 8 hours in case of power failures to just run the fan of my oil furnace (about 500 Watts) so I can have heat and a few led lights in some rooms.My only concern is that this UPS I think it gets 48V from its battery bank so I would need 4 batteries in series and I only have two (I can always buy 2 more if that is my best option)  Also I am not that sure about the safety of the 48V on the DC site.  If my smart ups will work being fed from that cheap modified sine wave Power Bright inverter I might still stick to my original plan. This is not something that would be used continuously I only plan to use this in case of power outages for about 8 hours that happen about once every other year. knurlgnar24 if you are still reading the comments (or anybody else that has good knowledge of this things) I would be very appreciative of any advice you can offer. Again thanks for all these great videos.

Pure sine inverters generally don't have a live neutral configuration but otherwise have the same limitations.

This would kind-of work...  The water heater element has about 12 ohms of resistance so you'll see significant voltage droop on the other phase with any significant load.  Unplugging the refrigerator would be a good idea to prevent overheating the compressor.

They're designed to shut down when the power goes out to avoid islanding, a serious safety concern.  For what you want to do you would need an inverter that also acts as an automatic transfer switch which is probably not practical cost wise.  You're probably better off purchasing an inexpensive grid tie unit that can handle your solar or other power source, and a separate larger non grid-tie inverter that you can manually switch on for power outages.

@free888368 No problem! We are glad that you liked the video.

nice video & thanks for sharing