Diy ls1 tuning Videos

Yeah, I only ever see the lighter gunmetal blue, not the patriot blue. If I ever have to repaint mine I'll want to switch. 

+spaceminions it's a 2000 cherokee classic. paint is "patriot blue"

And still doesnt throw as many horse as a gtp ass licker

+nathan peterson it's been done before you cock smooch

and btw, itll never fit your jeep dumbass

+TheCarPassionChannelXD

+nope. :D

+TheCarPassionChannel Ayyyy, miata-senpai

+OMGITSMRMACK That's what makes Haggard Garage one of the best car channels on YouTube.

The sizes had me rolling... I love that they are trying and getting it in... but they don't understand how things work completely when it comes to turbos for sure lol

I weld cast iron everyday at work that pass 30k ft/lb pipe torque tests all day long.

+James DeNigris customer isn't always right, tell them politely they're an idiot and make it a damn 3 inch. lol

No negativity towards you man - you did what the customer wants, but 1 inch is insane for exhaust gas to escape through.

+TWIRKNOLOVE he asked for 1 inch so that's what i made

+Brandon Berry could you show how looks daytona blue on car? I need compare 229 and g217 on cars. I m looking for effect like this or similiar //i.ytimg.com/vi/GhxHcB3Pqhk/maxresdefault.jpgdark blue and gold rims I like it.

+viperfan​ Oddly enough, I'm in the process of wrapping my mom's Accord in that Daytona blue :D Looks pretty similar to the 3M gloss metallic, but I like how dark the 3M blue looks at night. All mysterious looking, ha.

+Brandon Berry perfect colour for car. nice job. ARLOn cwc 229 daytona blue also nice

Yep.

Only the hood and the rear end.  There's an LS1 in there now.  I like it, haha.

+Samuel Macdonald Awesome! Good luck!

+Samuel Macdonald Thanks Sam! Great! Glad they've been helpful. Yes, you can hit that hump in the roof of the exhaust port very lightly to flush it with the rest of the roof. I did it on the set that is currently on my truck. I haven't broken through that hump and made a hole yet, but I don't think that there is water passage there. I think that I was given wrong information when I said that. I think its just extra material there for the valve spring seat. The tootsie rolls and arbor came from eastwoodDOTcom. You can also find a set at Harbor Freight (if you have one).

+AGearhead4Life Hey mate I know you state it fairly clearly above but just want to be very sure of it. You're saying that the hump in the exhaust can be taken right down to the same level as the surrounding roof? The same hump that you first thought might be a water passage? Just want to be crystal clear, wouldn't be great to get a hole in my head. Thanks a lot!!! Awesome videos and even better that they are followed up with updates. Also where did you get those tootsie rolls from and the piece they secure to?

+AGearhead4Life Thanks a lot mate. Starting tonight

+Samuel Macdonald Also, if it where my LS1, I'd be porting a set of 862 cast 5.3 heads for it. They flow the same, even with the smaller intake vavlves. Then I'd use LS1 intake valves in it. The smaller 61cc 5.3 heads will raise your compression and give more power. The LS1 heads are 67cc. Thats a good pump in compression. 5.3 heads can be found for about 100-150. Then you could sell the LS1 heads and they have a little more value.

+Samuel Macdonald Mainly i'd say leave the short turn radius alone still. Dont take any meat off of the floor, only smooth it. That hump in the exhuast just past teh vavle guide can be lightly sanded and removed to make the roof flat. Leave exhaust port "D" shaped. Which meants if you gasket match it, dont open up the bottom of the port, just the other three sides.

Ahhh well, one can only hope  :)

+Myopinionjustsaying Yep, that would be cool to see. I do have a set of 243s here that I need to do for a customer, but we probably wont invest the $75 it costs to flow test them. Its pretty much a given that they'll flow better, just how much better we wont know. I dont enlarge the port any, so there is no flow loss. I just blend and smooth.

I will say first you got some good numbers but it would still be interesting to see you do a set of 243's (maybe a cracked junker set) to see if "they" flow any better and THEN compare them.  :)

No, the 243s where not ported. Those are stock flow numbers for 243s and why they are the heads most people want.

Cool! Thanks! I'll look him up.

Headbytes Porting   check out his channel on advanced porting techniques....  little aggressive for the average porter but there's solid logic and techniques anyone can use.

Thanks for the tips! I'll check those out. I know I did notice a huge difference in cutting speed by using lube vs no lube.

+poenisch Yessssir! It feels good to hear someone notice that. It takes me four times as long to do a project whenever I video it. It really slows down the progress, but I enjoy it. Some people don't understand that and keep asking me why I don't have a new video up more often than every two weeks. Crazy! lol I only do this on Saturdays and have young children. lol But yea, that's the main reason I made this video series, I couldn't find much info on how to port your heads. I had to research a lot of different threads on LS1tech and a few others to gather the information to make this video series. I'd like to make a new video that covers porting these heads, but make it really compressed into one 20 minute video. but that's way down the line. I've got a list of other videos to get up first. Good luck poenisch!

+AGearhead4Life Awesome. Thanks for the quick response! Glad to see somebody sharing their LS tuning techniques. There is surprisingly very little information on YouTube about these engines. I get a lot through ls1tech but it can be cumbersome to find the information you are looking for in the forums. Again, thanks for taking the time to throw together a video series... I'm sure the job itself takes a lot of time... To video your progress and then edit the video... That shows true dedication to your craft.

+poenisch This is the video after I have the valve job done.  https://youtu.be/AUuXv1nkYZc?list=PL6B5A582274C4FA0D

+poenisch Glad to hear you've found these videos helpful. That makes it worth the effort. Yes, I had a valve job done once I finished. It is a challenge to stay off the seats while doing all of this. Some tape would probably help. Good luck on the your port job! It's not too hard to clean them up and get some gains, just time consuming. Most people seem to make a mistake on their first set and the most common mistake is that they port match the exhaust port into a circle. The exhaust port should be shaped like a "D" because you're not suppose to touch the floor of the port, leaving it flat.

Forget all the ignorant comment this is a great idea. All you guys need now is to use the brakes on that rear end to hold load, and a load cell to measure the power. Thumbs up on my book. too bad i can't say the same on that LS1 on an fc. lol

YUPP thats pretty redneck alright BUT with some work and development it just might work aa pretty bad ass car that looks kinda funky hell if it works it works

Dumb?! its a great idea! Thanks for liking the car ! V2.0 of the dyno is beeing made as we speak with safety in mind.

Man that is really dumb. If that would have fucked up then you would have ruined a sweet ass car.

That is an ingenius as it is dangerous. I can't wait to see v2.0!

relativt jalla :) men det spinner sikkert :)

Cool

I do have a before dyno from LS Fest, but I like to be precise and I'm afraid that I've done a few things that could effect my results. It made 282/279 through a 4L80E. Since last dyno the temp has cooled off dramatically. From 104 on the dyno and its now chilly out. I have also changed mufflers from dual 'Turbo" mufflers to a single 70 series Flowmaster. Tubing also changed from 2" to 2.25".

FREE is good! I like that right there! To get 241's (LS1) 67cc chamber down to 61/62cc the same as 862 's (5.3), you'd need to remove about 6cc. That will be about .040" milled off. Remember this is a rough guestimate. You'll need to measure to get exact. .007" x 6cc = .042"mill You also need to keep in mind PTV (Piston to Valve) Clearance. PTV should be fine at a .040" mill.

Wow, thank you for the kind words! I do not belive you'll have any issue milling your heads .050". But also take into concideration the cam that you will run. A safe way is to check PTV (Piston to Vavle clearance). On the "Squirter" project on my channel, I milled the heads .045" and ran a 228/230 585/585 cam on a 5.3 with not PTV issues. That example should help.

There should be some kind of award for guys like you who help people out like this. Anyway I have one question, in this particular case valve clearance is not an issue, that being said, I want to mill my 706 heads .050" to get them down to about 54cc. Will I run into any other issues by shaving this much off?

The exhaust may not make a difference but I know the Temp will. But I think my gains should still be close. Maybe 10hp from the temp change. With the work to the heads I'm expecting to see about 330 at the wheels.

Possibly more if you remove material from the chamber when polishing. So lets say you open it up to 68cc. Then you'll want to remove about 7cc. .007" x 7cc = .049" milled off

I do not remember the cost of the vavle job and mill man. Sorry. You can contact them to see if they'll do mail-ins. Just Google the name "Southern Cylinder heads".

I flow'd my first set that was before these. Flow numbers are in my other video. I did before and after dyno with these heads and thats also in my other videos.

What did you have to do to get the 2.00" intake valve to fit? Was the same seat used, or did a new seat have to be cut?

I wasnt planning on touching the chamber-just gunna P&P then mill them Thanks man, lookin forward to your next video

With .030 mill I'm expecting the compression to go from 9.5:1 to 10:1. Thats a 61cc chamber going to a 57cc.

Thanks man! You should be safe with a forty thousandths (.040") mill and that'd get you real close.

Yea, it was kinda awkward asking the nurse for a 60cc syringe. I just said "No Needle!"

I have not installed these yet. I just received them back from the machine shop today.

Thanks Randall! Its a girl. I've grown a gang of girls now. This is my third.

Lol did the hospital know you were using that syringe for your LS build. Haha

how much did it cost you? know if they take mail in orders?

Yep, Same seat. The machine shop just cut them out to fit.

did you do a dyno of before and after?

congratulations on the new kid

Yes that helps a lot, thanks!

Did you flowbench em?

Great! Good luck man!

boy or a girl