Superior transmission parts makes an AFL valve that "drops in" without modification to the channel plate. Cracked filler tube, I cant see this being an issue unless the fluid level is low and sucking air.
I think the manual shift valve only goes one way. I am confusing this trans with the 4r70w Ford in which you can mix up that one. I really dont think you have an issue with a clutch pack or teflon seal rings since you have the low pressure no matter what. You'll have to recheck it all again. Start with dropping the lower pan and make sure everything is in place there including the filter sealed properly.
+m ph the manual shift valve can only go one way correct? All clutches (4th,3rd and1st) were checked with no leaks, however my 2nd clutch pissed over instantly, you can hear the piston engage with air bleeding off immediately after.
+m ph trans worked flawless before band broke, i put in new clutches and seals/lip seals through out each clutch assembly, i did use new teflon seals, stretched with funnel and sized with tbolt clamps, they looked and felt good after sizing from what i could tell. First time around i had old filter, once tore in trans a second time i changed filter and filter seal. However, during initial rebuild i had accumulator lines off and was afraid they weren't seated all the way, so when i put new filter on i checked them and they were all the way in.
+m ph also fluid is full, is their anyway to test main valve or the apl valve? Was going to remove it but didnt see any clip, almost looks pressed in. Would a leaking teflon seal or 2nd drum affect the entire system like this? I called my local tranny shop and the guy said all my pressure was bypassing through that leaking circuit, but not sure if he was yanking my chain.
So trans worked fine before forward band broke? What was disassembled/rebuilt? You mentioned the valve body was gone through, did you rebuild each clutch pack and install new lip seals? Since its isolated to slipping with low line pressure during everything I would say this would rule out an individual clutch pack assembly. Did you use new teflon seals and have to size new ones? I usually leave them untouched since they can be quite tricky. Its hard to suggest what you did wrong, its possible the channel plate or valve body isnt sitting flat causing a leak. Valve could be out of place in the main valve body. manual shift valve in the correct position? The possibilities are endless. Fluid is full? No issue with the filter seating? Did you use a new filter metal sealing ring?
+m ph max command is at 50 psi too. The car will drive but shifting inbetween gears is delayed and the trans will slip in every gear including reverse if goose it a little. Car was fine til band broke. I got a master rebuild kit and cleaned valve body and reassembled to this! I have torqued everything to spec and am afraid im missing something? Im hoping i didnt put a spool in backwards in the valve body but dont think i did. Any valve in the valve body that would cause this? Also my dipstick tube cracked during reassembly, could this make pressure loss?
Ok, I read your post again. Main pressure wont go over 50 psi no matter what? If so try disconnecting the main electrical harness to the trans and check the pressure again. This will put it into max line pressure when running. If it wont go over 50 psi then you have a mechanical issue. Bad pump, leaking main valve in the valve body, leaking AFl valve in the channel plate, bad sealing filter, low fluid, assembled incorrectly.
Whats it doing, what are the symptoms? Slipping when shifting into 2nd? If so you need to consider everything related to the circuit. If its not air checking like my video It should be isolated to the molded piston, teflon rings shrunken or damaged, or a leaking metal part with a crack or???If its air checking good like the video you have to consider other problems, leaking around the accumulator pistons, sticking shift valves, leaking main pressure or channel plate valves, exc.
+m ph thanks for the reply i really need your help. Car was never able to build pressure over 50 psi, no matter what gear it was in. I even did a max line command and it made no difference. I pulled it apart again and checked everything, everything seemed fine but my 2nd was bleeding off on the air check. I tried lots of assembly goo on the teflon rings and molded piston with no affect. So i reassembled again and its at 50 psi again! Will my pressure bleed off through that 2nd clutch or do i have problems elsewhere? Your help is greatly apprecited! Love your videos!
That trans worked perfectly. If your second does not air check I would really consider taking it apart again to see whats up, much easier then than having to go back in once completely assembled and full of fluid. You can stack the components out of the car and air check them that way as well. Try a bunch of assembly lube around the teflon seals to see if it holds for the air check.
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Alarme para automóveis - ECP - Alard Car PW-10 - com 2 controles - 703262
Mais informações: //www.jocar.com.br/Produto.aspx?CP=703262 Loja virtual de auto peças e acessórios para carros. Aqui você encontra tudo online para ...
Amigo você não teria para vender só este controle pois o meu e exatamente
igual a esse modelo só que esta danificado e estou sem alarme aguardo
contato obg.
Boa tarde, Ramon.Verificamos com o nosso instalador e ele recomendou que você vá até uma loja especializada ou até uma de nossas lojas para verificar se é o mesmo controle, e também para fazer a codificação do novo controle com o alarme que está no seu carro.Obrigado.