I figured out how to hook up the tach to the non-stock CDI that doesn't have a tach circuit. As it turns out, the engine would cut out due to over revving. It would ...
1. Don't splice fuel lines with an elbow. If you do splice a fuel line with
an elbow make SURE you put hose clamps on both ends of the elbow. If you
don't, even though it seems to be very tight, it can draw air into the line
and in seconds or minutes you have a vapor locked fuel line.
2. Replace the fuel line completely. The old fuel lines had a liner in them
that would deteriorate over time from Ethanol, and it's almost impossible
to get fuel without Ethanol in it now. That liner would get weak, collapse
and starve the engine for fuel. Sometimes it would break and cause a "flap"
inside the fuel line that acts like a shut off valve. The faster you go,
the more throttle you use, the more draw on the fuel service (suction), the
more likely you are to see this symptom. So as soon as your engine stops
sucking fuel the "flap" or constriction relaxes and all of a sudden you
have fuel again and can restart.
If the fuel line has this problem eventually it will just clog up when a
chunk of the inside lining lets go completely. Fuel lines are comparatively
cheap and hey, the motor won't run if it can't get gasoline. Nothing ruins
a day on the water faster than propulsion problems. Assuming you don't run
into ships and such things ...
Make sure you get a marine rated fuel line designed for Ethanol fuels.
DON"T just use a chunk of garden hose or an automobile fuel or vacuum line.
If you do that eventually your motor will stop running or will run briefly
and then stop. Everything will look just fine but you'll be posting videos
on YouTube asking people why your outboard motor won't run ...
Could be that the wooden core in the transom is rotting or rotten. I have
cut the the inside fiberglass out around the edges , keeping it in one
piece and replaced the wood with new, then glass taped the removed
fiberglass back into place. Problems you could run into involve finding
that more than just the transom core wood is rotten and that can get more
involved .If it seems strong enough you might want to just leave it alone
and keep an eye on it. to check for rot drill hole from inside .
seems like a float is hanging up drop the bowls,carb cleaner to clean the
bowls and into the jets, then get a separate tank aux tank from walmart
about 30.bucks. run it with the fresh gas you put in the new tank .maybe
there is something in the old tank.also make sure there are no cracks in
the fuel line or the pump the one on the line,it needs to feel solid all of
the time,they go bad ...worth a try.
get somebody to go with you next time and be running down the lake and when
it goes to die out have somebody spray some carb cleaner into one of the
carburators and see if it tries to stay running. If it does, then you have
a fuel delivery problem (fuel filter, clogged carburators, fuel pump, etc.)
If it doesn't help it try to stay running, then its an electrical/ignition
problem.
Dont know if you have already fixed the motor or not, but my johnson
outboard did the same thing to me ended up being a check valve in fuel feed
hose sucked the primer bulb flat. i had to check right away because it
would return to normal in a few seconds I replaced the fuel feed hose after
puting lots of money into new fuel pump carb kits. ended up bieng $15 fuel
hose