I hate to break it to you bro, but that's not the right nut.....
The correct nut is up and to the left of the one shown in this video.
It is not visible looking thru the steering surround.
It would VERY difficult to access it using the method shown here if not
impossible.
Best way I found is to actually get in the driver's seat upside down.
Use a headband light for visibility and use of both hands.
Even then, the nut will not be visible.
You will have to feel for it.
Once it's located, use a 12mm socket with one or two extenders (depending
on length) the same way you would a screwdriver.
Place that set up over the nut and hold it in place with one hand.
With the other hand, connect a ratchet to the end of the extender and break
the nut loose and remove it.
When installing the new master cylinder, DO NOT reuse that nut.
LEAVE IT OFF.
Reinstalling the nut is even more difficult than removing it, not to
mention that you would have to deal with it again if/when the master
cylinder needs to be replaced again.
Just add a little bit of locktite to the master cylinder bolt that is
exposed inside of the engine bay and torque that nut down well.
(Been riding around for 6 years with just one nut. Has not loosened or
given me any problems.)
Thanks for the video.
Hope this helps someone.
Yes, the nut removed in the video is not the correct nut....but holding the camera and trying to show this in a quick and orderly fashion for illustrative purposes was the goal of this video. If you stop the video at the 18 second mark, that is the correct nut for removal. I have swapped numerous clutch masters on many cars using this exact method. The first time I did it was upside down. The next time I did it I realized it was simple to do it this way and have used this method ever since.
Yes it is. When its 100*F outside 0W20 will be way too thin that's why I'm
using it when its 30-40*F outside. Before 10W60 oil reach its optimal
temperature in winter lubrication will be poor and its harmfull for the
engine. But as I said before, from my experience 5W30 is optimal for both -
summer and winter time. I don't remember part # of the clutch I have in my
car right now ... sorry.
@lukas626 wow, 10w60 to 0w20 thats a big difference. Aint the second one is
too liquid? I think its better w50/60 for those rpms :) I use 5w40 Liquy
Moly, i have stock FS (i think l'll change it for 5w50 in summer) And one
more question about clutch, i just got an Exedy too, part number is
mzk2084, but yet didnt put it on. U got the same or another?
The friend, I from Russia! You couldn't write a bit more precisely that you
have made with the engine? On how many I understand, you have put FS ZE! I
too have put! Whether it is possible to make it better, if yes, as? If you
can, there were photos that at you under a cowl?
@TheOriginal626 ... no, just those that I've mentioned in describtion. When
I was recording this I was using Castrol 10W60 oil, now in winter I use
0W20 Motul 300V. Optimal for this engine is 5W30 and this is the one that
I'm going to use text seson.
Depends on your experience level. For a complete swap I'm still not done
yet with the shift linkages and wiring. If you mean just a transmission
swap then yeah it might be possible in a weekend. You need to get every
single part ahead of time. What's taken me the most time is simply waiting
for parts to arrive. Throw in places shutting down for the Holidays and
that wait time was extended a lot. Had to wait 3 weeks in total so far just
in dealership parts alone.
Part 7 will probably be axle and shift linkage installation. Haven't
recorded it yet still waiting for the axles to get back from the machine
shop. I needed the hub nuts removed and I don't have a workbench. This
stuff is pretty hard without the right tools. Air tools would be nice but I
guess it's good to show all of this can be accomplished without them. At
least that's what I'm telling myself. ;P
Please see my other comment about using a hex wrench for removing and
installing the axle nuts and this youtube video D4PK1jXhppE start at about
1:45 in.
While I was driving, I got to a red light and when it turned green I was not able to go into any gear. The clutch pedal would sink to the floor and not come back up.
You will need air tool impact gun to remove some bolts even 25 inch brake bar could remove some of them... the size of the socket to remove all this supports ...
Bleed the clutch. Check for leaks. Ensure that you don't have any brake
calipers leaking too since the brakes share a reservoir with the clutch.
Look at the top of the clutch arm inside the cabin and make sure the master
isn't leaking inside the cabin. Low pressure like that is caused by air in
the lines usually due to a leak. Find the leak, stop the leak, bleed the
lines, and you'll be good to go.
had same problem 2 times. Tube was leaking where it's connected to other
tube.
1988 MX6 gt First Start after Transmission rebuild
still have a few things to work on but this is the first start after rebuilding the transmission. couldn't actually test it because the clutch master cylinder went out.
hey i got an 2.2 89 mx6 gt with all the fruit 4ws etc, mine is the aussie
single cam, i gotta put new tranny in, i scored one from a twin cam jap
spec mx6 of same year, do u think it will fit b4 i go ahead? + any comments
thanks :)
hey im about to go buy an 88 gt mx6 today... just wondering if there is any
forums about these cars? and how much HP can the stock bottom end hold?
thanx p.s. is that a reall Hks SS or ebay one?
yea but the odometer will still read KM. The km/mph only switches the
speed. You would still have to convert whatever the KM to MPH. Not that is
a hard task but would still look weird.
That sounds amazing why would you wanna change that? The exhaust sounds
great dont let people say that sounds like crap cuz it dont... thumbs up
dude check out my videos
Good cars to own. Black on black 90 GT,T-bird turbo= 13s. Make sure u take
off all those dam restrictions. Skyline turbo = 12.7 (STOCK
INTERNALS)GoodLuck ^^