2008 mazda 3 won't start but cranks Videos

+James Barcellano It is one of those problems that is not associated with this particular car, could not solve it any other way.

+martinguitarhd28 thanks bro

ok mate thnx

+KURDISTAN uk check your main grounds on that block too

+ScannerDanner I meant "uh" not "huh", haha, anyways thanks for your reply, the great scannerdanner talked to me ohhh!!

+Walter Sancho Did I say "huh" a lot in this video? I'm confused

+Bong Keun Chee nice job my friend! I bet you were a hero in the shop that day. The cool thing about this kind of stuff? You will NEVER have to toot your own horn. Let your work speak for you, stay humble and people will know that you are the go to guy without you ever saying a word.

If we ever bump into each other at a trade show, I will tell you a funny ring story.

+Randy Beaumont agree, I'm not setting a good example with them on.

+ramirezki yes

+ScannerDanner thanks danner im a young one in this hard game but ur skill is on the hook ur high level even a teacher but in the game were im at its always about ur speed to diagnosing problems i c u go down to the bear connectors ur game would take u longer but its way more better in the over all because in this real game we would have some mechanics spending the customers money nd not fixing the problem thats a no no in this game u might take ur time but its about having this game right in ur hands i would love to still watch more uploads but doing quick test with no big scanners using multimeter, 12v test light ,led with for ground nd power checks simple tools can also get ur job done check for spark fuel pressure ckp nd cam single in other cars the module im glad to knoe that how smart ull get in this game is as much as u wanna learn thanks danner keep ur self up nd GOD bless you

Good job man! I wasn't even thinking about an antitheft issue with this. Forgot about those vat systems. You followed directions very well, better than most, that for sure. It was my pleasure to try to help even though we were on the wrong path, you still learned this system didn't you? Again good job

+ScannerDanner got it done danner took me some time reading nd understanding vast sytem nd some forums its in control with the key style 1 nd 2 for the startor senoild nd the injector pulse this is only being in control buring cranking when started the ecm takes control if eveything coming from the ignition switch connection to the unit for the vast there should b no problem is all wires are good nd its reading ur ohms correct for the key style u have there will no problems with the key but was can be done the bypass on this vast system with the near percent of the ohms of ur key get the connector of two wires runing down the ignition swith i didnt cut any wires as said in some forums tried it 3 different ways on connecting the ohms i placed the ohms with the wires connected nd like back probing the connector pluged in with the omhs of the key bam it was there took me alot of testing connector for ground thest connector for power nd the signal from the module to the pcm everything checked out solid injector ohms only pain was it vast system but thanks alot for taking ur time to reply back ur way more nd have more understading of all runing system nd back probing testing everything ur great but i feel good about my self getting this job done thanks danner

That sounds about right. So let's confirm the ECM is receiving this signal by monitoring the fuel pump circuit. Do it at the relay under the hood. This is a power side switched circuit. You should be getting a 2 second prime then here is the important part. While cranking, that circuit should re-energize. If it does we are barking up the wrong tree by chasing this ref. circuit.

+ScannerDanner let me know any steps to able to diagnois the problem with no injector pulse

+ScannerDanner b3 purple/white ref wire .12 with the key on nd 1.6 while cranking

+Eli Gomez okay, then next we need to check the ref wire for a signal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nqxc-ZViQso watch this video at the 23:55 mark. I am testing the ref wire on a 4 cylinder design. It shows .9 volt average on the meter. It is actually a 0-5v square wave. This is a known good waveform in this video.Give me a voltage reading of this ref wire during a crank with everything plugged in.

+ScannerDanner Premium its on a good ground even tried the ground at the battery it doesn't show anything on meter with both connections from the module to the pcm so im sure its not shorted to ground or being crossed threw with volts

+ScannerDanner Premium hey danner I have a actron cp7677 multimeter but when I went to do this test is dose not go ol it doesn't mark anything even when I placed it at 20m ohms

+Eli Gomez Okay, since you have spark we are not worried about the pick-up coil. Next step is to check the purple-white ref wire for a short to ground (partial short, not enough to light the test light but enough to pull the 5v ref down). Disconnect ECM and module and measure between ref wire and a known good ground, your ohmmeter should read OL on the mega ohm scale if the wire is good. I had an aftermarket Viper alarm system wired into that ref wire on a van that beat me up a little in the past.

+ScannerDanner let me know what u think thanks

+ScannerDanner Premium thanks for taking ur time nd ur knowledge for my help yes the noild light blinks nd i can hear the fuel coming up when i do this test i changed the module but still no noild blinking while cranking

+Eli Gomez okay so to be clear, the noid light does flash? it doesn't have to be bright. I'm not sure what you mean by this statement " but not really bright nd these is no light been shown as i do this test"

+ScannerDanner thanks danner i have have done the test as followed i can hear the pump and also i can see the noid light flicker but not really bright nd these is no light been shown as i do this test i have checked the tps nd its also good there is no flood mode just no injector pulse while cranking

+Eli Gomez This is a different system than yours but it explains the bypass system a little https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxPdxGqRWvc

+Eli Gomez Eli, there is a purple-white wire that comes off the ignition module. With the key on, take a test light to battery positive and touch on/off this wire. The injectors should fire and fuel pump should run each time you do this. Also do not use an LED type light, it needs to be an incandescent light, and when you do the test, the test light should NOT light up. Let me know

Yeah, the holes, you'll notice, are oblong. So it allows the sensor to be moved up or down. If you didn't pay attention to that you may have retarded the timing too much, hence the code you got.  //cdn3.autopartsnetwork.com/images/catalog/brand/standard-motor-products/640/SI_PC323_Bracket.jpgNow, obviously it could be other issues. Like a weird ECM problem or other wiring short of some sort. You wouldn't think such a small amount of movement would matter, but it really does. Usually you can get away with some movement. 

didn't know they were adjustable.

Did you make sure the sensor was placed in the same spot? You can mess with the timing by having it in the wrong location. You'll notice that the sensor can be moved a bit up or down. I marked the spot the old sensor was at before I took it off.

wow ok. I have had no luck. mine sounded just like yours. im still looking for an answer, codes said timing over retarded. thanks for posting back. and good info thanks.

Changed the sensor and I was golden. If I remember right it took 1-2 tries but it started, ran a little rough but evened out after 5-10 minutes of warming up.

so all you did is change the crank position sensor and it started right up. mine is doing the same thing and its still sounds just like yours.

did you get your mazda fixed and was it the crank sensor. thanks for your time.

did you get your mazda fixed. and was it the crank sensor, thanks for your time.