How to remove pto shaft from tractor Videos

Thanks for sharing this video. My brush hog PTO shaft is extremely tight on my JD750. I had it off once, which took me forever to take off and put back on *(with a hammer)*. I suspect the spline has rust or is out of spec? I do not take it off anymore, should I buy a new shaft?

Anyone know of any tricks to getting the splines positioned easier! Seems I always do a guessing game with turning the implement shaft with a steel bar or large screwdriver to get the splines lined up! What a pain in the balls that is!

My balls froze this past winter for sure.

What sort of penetrating oil do you use? i heard ATF and Acetone is a good mix?

Hi Mike. My problem with getting the PTO shaft hooked up is that the splines in the PTO don't align with the implement drive shaft splines. How can I get them moved to allow me to get it on? Thanks! Sharryn

my 3 ph post hole digger is a beast to hitch to and then the 6' pulverizer is next, it seems the wider the implement the more difficult to hitch too.

Ever tried a quck hitch attachment for 3 point hitch systems? Tractor Supply has one for nearly $300. Harbor Freight has one for only $99. I've never used one, but they look enticing to cut out all the hassle that goes with this task.

Hi, great video. I would like to know how much oil you put back in. What type of oil is best. I have a fergusson 35 which has a leaking seal and really needs to be replaced.

I think that point is irrelevant in this case. The outcome is still the same. Having grown up on a cereal and hay producing farm, then spending 16 years working around aircraft, the dangers of loose-fitting clothing near rotating parts are the same. Whatever can catch...WILL catch. It's only a matter of when. In this case, sure the mannequin is tied to the pto, but this is only meant to illustrate the tragic consequences. The ease of entrainment by clothing / loose articles are still the same.

You make it look way too easy. I discover new swear words every time I try! Do you use any special lubricants or oils to make sure it connects that easily?

This is not correct. If you need to shorten your PTO by 3 inches, you would take 1.5 inches off of both ends of the PTO. In essence, whatever total length you need to shorten to, you take 1/2 of that off of both sections. Don't believe me? Here's a simple test. Take a piece of paper say 8 inches long. Cut it in half to make two 4 inch pieces. Overlap them by one inch so that the total length is 7 inches with 1 inch overlap. Let's say that we want to shorten the over all length from 7 inches to 5 inches. According to this video, you would take 2 inches off of both pieces. Do that, and you'll end up with a total length of 3 inches (not 5 inches) with a 1 inch overlap. I should have done this test to begin with. I shortened my PTO too much because of this...

just gona use babe's 2 door civic to jump start my tractor real quick

Great idea. Enjoyed your video, and love your assistant - she's a cutie - LOL! Seriously though, this is wicked unsafe for the average moron. I definitely recommend NOT doing this for about 99% of the population. Best thing you can do is just repair/replace your engine's electric starter (or whatever the problem is). Let's face it... if you can't afford to fix your tractor the correct way, you probably have no business owning one anyhow. Really doesn't matter who you are. With that said... I like your ability to "think outside the box". It's what makes things happen in this world. As the saying goes... "Necessity is the mother of all invention". True words. One thing you may not know about tractors is that this method of starting will not work on all of them. It will only work on some. Since around the mid 1950's - 1960's, many tractors have PTO's that are hydraulically operated (a hydraulic PTO clutch engages and disengages it). They also have hydraulically released PTO brakes which prevent the PTO shaft from spinning when it is turned off. Especially most larger and higher horsepower tractors in the 50 to 300Hp range. There are typically 3 different types of tractor PTO's. There are: 1.) Independent. 2.) Live. and 3.) Standard (non-live). In most cases, the only tractors that your method of "reverse" starting (via the PTO shaft) will work on is a tractor with a "live" mechanically actuated/driven PTO or a standard mechanically actuated/driven PTO. This is also assuming that your tractor has a standard transmission and not a fully hydrostatic or hydraulic shifting transmission (often called a power-shift or something of the like). Again, it will still ultimately depend what drive design of PTO that tractor has. 1.) An independent PTO is one in which can be turned on and off totally separately from the engine and transmission clutch. They are typically hydraulically clutched, and are typically the most advanced and desirable for any tractor. They may be mechanically or electro-hydraulically activated. They slowly became more and more prevalent after the mid 1950's. 2.) A live PTO (aka: 2-stage clutch) is a PTO in which the clutch pedal acts as a way to engage and disengage both the transmission as well as the rear powershaft (PTO). Pressing 1/2 way down on the clutch pedal gives you the ability to disengage the transmission from the engine only, while allowing the PTO to remain powered by the engine. Pressing the clutch pedal down fully to the floor plate allows for the transmission AND the PTO to both become disengaged from the engine power, by actuating both the transmission and the PTO clutches at the same time. Seems that many compact and utility tractors in the 20 to 50 Hp range have these "live" types of PTO's. These live PTO's were (and still are) more common than independent PTO's because they are cheaper to manufacture and sell. 3.) A standard (non-live) PTO is one in which the transmission clutch engages the PTO as well. They are the least desirable PTO design, and are found in nearly every tractor built prior to the mid/late 1950's. Because only one clutch is used, the PTO will only spin when the transmission clutch is fully engaged. If you disengage the clutch to stop the transmission, you will stop the PTO as well. Standard PTO's are typically engaged and disengaged by a mechanical lever, which offers a direct connection to the engine/transmission clutch. They are kind of a pain in the ass to use. Hope you enjoyed my brief synopsis of "PTO 101". LOL :-)

This is good backwoods knowledge but you know some new to the farm city boy is going to try this, screw up the pull wrap and wind his Prius around the PTO.. that or some drunken hillbilly is going to tie that thing to their truck nuts and rip their PTO shaft off - either way it'll be amusing to see if they put it on youtube.

Nice work fella, don't listen to the haters. At the end of the day, you got the disabled vehicle running again. Everyone will also have their own "old indian magic trick" and every machine/situation might require a different approach to get a resolution. This particular method wouldn't work on my machines due to heir hydraulic PTO engagement . I would have been temped to relieve the hydrualic system of it pressure and bypass/vent the loader rams in order to jack it up (with farm jack) enough to bu,p start a manual if I was unable to get the starter cranking by shorting it and offering it some encouragement with a hammer (you'd be surprised how many seized starters manage to free up with a few well place hammer taps during attempted cranking. Many of of smaller machine have hydrostatic drive which is a really curse when you have a flat battery/broken down machine as before you can even recover/tow the machine you have to bypass the Hydro tranny if you can run the engine. I don't normally take the time to comment on youtube as I feel too many people are too quick to cuss on each. People in this day and age seem happier to ram their opinions into the world without considering the possibility that somebody else idea might just work. There may have been other ways to get the job done, but from my point of view the machine is running, he has all his fingers and he can get back to work/making money - on a commercial setup like mine that's all that matters. Peace out from Sunny northern England

I was curious about this . Mine doesn't leak but I noticed yesterday mine appears to be bent slightly . Doesn't run "true" , I can see a slight wobble as it runs . My dad passed away years ago (it was his tractor) and before he died he told me he had to have me get a new shaft for it and he'd show me how to replace it , unfortunately he passed away before we got to it . It wasn't real pressing for him to repair it because he was no longer using the pto for anything . I bought the tractor along with his wodds finish mower and I've been using it for 4 or 5 years , but just yesterday as I got done putting new blades on the mower I noticed the slight wobble in the pto shaft , and then remembered "that's what dad was talking about " . On the plus side of the whole thing , I like to think if he's able to see me using the tractor and taking care of it he'd be pretty happy about it . He had owned it since about 1968 or so . Had a valve job on it quite some time ago along with having it professionally repainted some years ago . I'm amazed after storing it all winter I'll charge the battery , hit the start button and it always starts immediately . The other problem it's had is rear brakes barely work . I know the seals leak a little and the shoes are probably oil soaked . Fortunately I never need brakes .