How to compress valve springs without spring compressor (rb25)
Tutorial on how to compress and remove the valve springs from an rb25 head, without using a compressor. This also goes for any dohc or ohc engine thats ...
Part 2 - How to remove cylinder head from KA24DE 240sx S13 S14
PART 1 Blown headgasket? Bad Compression? Time for a rebuild? This video will give you a guide on how to properly remove the cylinder head from a ...
Ok first off mad props to you guys, you did a very good job on this and has
helped me tremendously with my 240 s14, really great videos!!! So i just
got one and now the head gasket is blown :( but i cant really pull the
motor (nowhere to do it) so i will be doing this in the engine bay. I know
it will take longer but what are your thoughts on doing this in the engine
bay??? Looking to do this next weekend so if you have a spare moment i
would greatly appreciate you response, thank you very much!
Is this build simular to a Nissan 2002 Altima 4 cylinder? I need to replace
my head gasket and really cannot afford to pay over $1000 for labor alone.
I usaully do minor mechanic work myself but never did anything like this.
My biggest concern is Timming chain when I put it back together. What Head
Gasket Sealant do you recommend? And about how much will Head to Yeild
bolts cost as you recommend it needs to be replaced? Well done will your
vids, I like how you keep explaining as you do it.
@willcast21 Thank you for the compliment. Unfortunately, the 2.5/3.5 in the
altima's is a new game. You can still use my video as a general "how to",
most nissan's use timing chains. As for "Head Gasket Sealant", we use
Permatex Copper Spray on all of our head gaskets. TTY (Torque to yield)
bolts usually are not super expensive. If they seem overpriced, check out
the cost on ARP headstuds. ARP's are reusable over and over.
Your video is very instructional, still is recommended to have the shop
manual of the year and model of the vehicle. Both, the shop manual plus
your video will be a great tool for anyone who feels capable to replace the
head gasket or the valves. You have gave lots of tips which are very
important and that are not shown in the shop manual. Great work, thanks for
your video.
I'm still trying to catch up with the final videos for these - I have been
so damn busy working on 6.0 Diesels I haven't had ANY time. I tossed around
the idea of a bottom end video - But I've always told people if they
haven't done it before it's best to have someone THERE that knows it. Too
many specs to screw up by someone who doesn't know what they are doing.
@marsvolta1fan Yeah, I know :-D It was a mistake in the "heat". You'd be
surprised at how being infront of a Camera can have you making mistakes!!!!
As long as the pressure is removed evenly (even the way I did it) no one
will have any problems. But, you are correct! FSM Calls for OUT to IN, but
the most important thing is that the pressure is removed evenly.
@juanfg34 It's pretty straight forward. Off the top of my head, there is a
bolt on the exhaust side of the head that goes DOWN into the cover. You
have to remember to take this out. Also, there are two that go DOWN into
the oil pan. Obviously, the crank pulley needs to be removed. Don't lose
the "half moon" key that sits on the crank itself.
Thank you for the very informative videos! I adore the 240SX but the only
ones in my price range seem to have blown head gaskets. Figured id look it
up and see how difficult it is. I just learned that I would be a bit over
my head trying to do it and should not attempt it until I have gained more
skill in working on these kind of things.
@S13xCrazy However, You can leave the intake on and avoid those 3. Getting
the head actually out of the engine bay is slightly more complicated
though. You have to have a buddy put a strap around the intake manifold and
have them pull like hell to give the two intake studs on the cylinder head
room to slide out of the manifold itself.
@johnprodgers60 Yes, it absolutely is possible. You basically do everything
the same, however there are 3 bolts on the back of the head that hold on
EGR lines. They are a PITA to get out while the motor is in. The other
"tough" part is the 3 bolts that hold on the intake manifold. There is a
bracket directly underneath it.
Thank you! I always recommend having the factory service manual out - it
helps with the things you might have forgotten from the video or anything
else you have questions about. Luckily Nissan FSM's are very well done and
easy to access online. This just puts it into visual for those who learn
easier from it!
@guerreirolm1 LOL, i can tell your a mechanic yourself. "screws". You have
obviously never worked in a shop... the importance is not in the sequence,
rather EVEN pressure. and in all reality, its not essential at all. 99% of
mechanics will rip them out in ANY order with an impact.
Absolutely great video, this just saved my life lol, i needed to change my
head gasket for soo long but couldnt find a single video/manual on a KA to
help me for shit but now i will finally fix and get her sideways again :D
@jnight Never heard of this before - but thanks for the tip! We have been
doing this for about 6 years and have never had any issues. This is the
easiest/most affordable way for someone at their home to take care of it.
@S13xCrazy You and Steve are pros thanks a lot Same procedures apply to a
1.9L Saturn Twin Cam ? lol need to change cylinder head the head comes
assembled with everything cams, springs, valves and lifters.
great video really easy to follow along hope you can up load video 3. Dont
listen to haters who think they could have done it better because they are
cowards who dont have the courage to upload a video.
Very clear and helpful video, thanks for making it. I'm in the middle of
removal right now, and I found an 18 ct. egg carton makes a handy cam guide
holder for keeping them clean & in order :)
RB25DET Rebuild
RB25DET Rebuild DVD (Part 1 of 2) Head //store.drifting.com/enredv.html.
Yes you can but it's blood hard! Take the cams out and get an old spark
plug drill the middle out then tap a thread in to fit an air line on. put
that piston at TDC and screw yr airline adapted plug in and LOCK the
flywheel! then fill that cylinder with compressed air which will hold yr
valve up. then get/make a tool to compress the valve spring (leaver off the
head) remove the collets and bam!! fit new stem seals and springs. rebuild
and race ; D lol.
Just a good idea, when building motors iv never used them, but it really
helps keep you hands out of chemicals and the oils from your hands getting
on engine bearing and crap like that.
great upload. i have a build going atm, and was going to do the head later.
so my question is. can u install these h.d valvesprings etc without taking
out the whole engine?
240sx ka24e sohc Head removal to troubleshoot issues!
Figured id give you guys something to watch! Decided to pull the old s13 coupe in the garage and see what was actually wrong with it. ( previous owner started ...
Just got busy with the new shop, was gonna get it running and sell, but
figured it wouldnt be worth my time and effort for what i would be able to
get out of it. So im probably going to keep it around for awhile and
probably do a turbo 5.3/ 4l80e swap in the future.
Hey if you are still thinking about selling it let me know I'm looking for
a shell so I can start getting into drift. I have a 1990 240 but the rails
are super bad an I'm looking for a cleaner shell so if u want to sell it
give me a price running or not
Ahhah good work......that motors fuckd the oil ports are full of leaves...
Check my KA24E. Over 400,000kms i have a few vids to upload. Just took off
the EGR. But i got a spare motor and trans around 150,000kms.. For
100$..... FUNNY SHIT! 2thumbsUP!
Hey motion I have a 2001 lexus is300, with headers, intake and a catback
exhaust do you think I should trade straight up for an sr20det swapped 240
or try to sell the car and do it myself? Btw I have no experience swapping
motors
This video covers the complete valve job process that your machinist might perform. If the 100 series videos didn't help you identify and correct a problem with ...
For the intended purposes of this video, it was very good. It was nice for
that guy to walk the audience through. But for any one here that does
performance cylinder heads or knows the process, probably will approach the
valve job differently. Just a couple things I saw and disagree with was
that he seemed to use too aggressive of lapping compound. I use nothing
more than 400 grit and you should use dykem on the seat and valve to see if
it cut concentric or not. As far as the cutter, there is nothing
performance about a 30/45/60. That is a normal valve job you'll get from a
rebuilder shop. Once again, not bashig by any means, just voicing my
perspective on this. All in all, I think this is great you take your time
to make videos for the public. Good on you for that.
+recordbreaker5 There are many aspects of performance, and many points I agree with you on… for instance, I hate radius cutters in general. That's not my preferred equipment for cutting valve seats on any performance job, but it costs $1700 less and isn't what's responsible for the biggest gains that I'll be able to feel or measure from the driver's seat. To me, that's money well saved. While a valve seat can be a limiting factor, it's not where the majority of "performance" gains come from. Keep in mind, when Mark says "performance cutter", all it denotes is that there are 2 kinds of cutters available for this particular machine. Variations in how wide the 30/45/60 angles are… are why it's referred to by Sunnen as a "performance cutter". The "performance cutter just has a longer 30 on it, and a shorter 45 and 60. It's intended to move the seat out closer to the margin of the valve which actually shortens the life of the valve job, but improves airflow over a standard cut. It's that simple. If anyone hears "performance cutter" and assumes that using that tool automatically means they're going to end up with the ultimate valve job in under 2 hours and for less than $300, then they're a victim of their own assumptions. It's just a seat that flows better than the standard cutter will cut. A seat that doesn't match the exact lengths of the recommended 30, 45 and 60 cuts. One that Sunnen claims will flow better. A standard seat has wider 45's and 60's so that the valve job lasts longer. It trades flow for a bit more durability, that's all.The weakest link in 99.999997% of professionally-built "performance cars" is always the driver, not the valve seats. "Performance" is the most abused term in automotive engineering because what's the standard? Performance what? Whenever someone thinks they have a "high performance" machine, they get butt-hurt the moment they find out someone else is faster. Problem is… someone else is always faster. Unless their name is Kye Kelly of course. If the standard is "flows better than stock", then nearly any bolt-on upgrade from an air filter to an exhaust tip turns a street car into a performance car. That's awesome from a sales pitch perspective, but that won't change Kye Kelly's opinion of your car. That's why performance is a subjective term. It's splitting hairs. He-said-she-said. All "performance" denotes is it's intended use. Putting a 9 angle valve job on a normally-aspirated economy car won't magically turn it into a "performance car", just like using a standard cutter on a GT-40's valve seats won't turn it into an economy car. You also mentioned the same thing I think about permatex lapping compound. I've actually mentioned that in this video, and a previous video where I covered the shade-tree approach to valve jobs. If someone wants to spend $2,000+ or 100 hours dressing stones and cutting seats for 3 extra CFM, then they know what their reasons are, but everyone else is going to end up with a valve job done on a radius cutter because the machinists doing the work would rather not spend their whole week on it, and because in nearly every practical case with every rebuild, $2,000 can make a much bigger difference somewhere else. I've got a set of GTP heads for reference. I know what actual "performance" heads look like. You're correct, perspective is everything in this discussion. I'm not arguing with you, I'm agreeing with you. The reason I made this video is because nobody who knows how to grind the highest performance seat has the camera, knowledge, ability, or drive to make free educational videos for the public on how to do it because it works against their livelihood. That, and they've spent their lifetime developing different talents. Of course, if I'm wrong about that, I'll be the first person to favorite, like, subscribe to and share their video with my audience because I love that kind of shit and so do the people who follow me. :)
thanks for creating this video. I am currently enrolled in a local auto
tech program and we found your site during class. you have excellent videos
that translate volumes of information in a condensed and comprehensive
format. your efforts are appreciated.
+ewvoss68 We? Wow, that's pretty dang cool! An auto tech program taking advice from ME. I have zero formal training in automotive technology, I just make videos about the things I'm interested in. Over the years I just read everything I could find about those interests and listened to everyone who had experience on those topics... so for your sake [and to stay true to everyone who watches], I will be forever humble and recommend you still read all those volumes I helped you skip. My goal is to help others visualize the job so that those volumes make more sense. If you can do that, you will be a better automotive technician than I will ever be. ;)
Takes a special kind of chilled out guy to go through that painstaking
process with professionalism from start to finish. The gentleman there fit
the bill perfectly.
Thanks for showing me the set up procedure on a Sunnen VGS. I have never
used one.
I have always used a Serdi seat and guide machine.
There are serious design flaws with those machines. Lots of then we're
sold. Lots of good machinist swear by them.
A dead pilot sitting in a valve guide is never as good as a lie pilot in a
guide. Many machinist are very afraid of a live pilot. The details of the
advantages of them are hard for 95% of cylinder builders to see.
That man was very nice to allow you to video his work. The job he did
probably worked out fine.
I watch and listen to your attention to detail and realized that as you go
further into this you will realize flaws as time goes by. If you find a
Serdi manual online I suggest a detailed read. It will shed major light on
the subject of valve guide clearance and valve seat concentricity.
Thanks for posting.
+Jafromobile if I had the time and skill that you articulate your videos with.I would make some and share them on YouTube. It's always fun for me to share knowledge with others in this subject matter. I have my own shop complete with a Super Flow 600 and a Serdi seat and guide machine I am very proud of. Just work too much to enjoy them most of the time. I will add that measuring airflow on a 4V cylinder head is a bit of a half the story being told method. With 2 valve engines you can make lots of torque by improving swirl into your combustion chamber. Most have taken to wet flow testing to refine this. On a 4V head you can't get swirl without a considerable amount of rethinking. David Vizard has publish quite a bit on the subject if you havnt read up on his poly quad design yet. It's a very interesting idea and at best it will teach you that just flow testing 4V heads won't really cut it in the 4V world.
+Hugh O'Brien Hugh, I'm extremely grateful for every post you've made today. Every word read and digested. I've worked to establish a good relationship with all of the machinists I do business with and respect the extremely hot, sweaty, rigid, difficult and often thankless jobs they do. I always like to shut up and listen in the presence of experience because what I learn helps me to perform better under fire. I try to make videos for other people like me. It's on that note that I urge you to carry on. Thanks for spending your time watching my videos!
+BingeCenter I'm glad you're enjoying it! Make sure you find time to rest and stay hydrated. Some people begin watching these videos and are never heard from again. ;)