We have a lennox pulse 21. We are having a problem with it right now. we
have no heat the furnace will run, but blow cold air. I found that the
green light on the control is off. So I shut the power off what a few
seconds and turn it back on and then the green light comes on and we have
heat till the temperature reaches what we want. Then the next time it kicks
back on I have to go turn the power off again. Is the controller bad do we
need a new one? We have a 86H3001. Will the new one in your video work?
Mike have you checked for blockage in the intake or exhaust? Also check for blockage in the condensate trap or drain lines. You can always make a call for heat then check that the purge blower is running.
I did replace the control and now my heat is working fine but last year we would have a loud noise like a howl sound on startup but we don't have that now is there still something wrong?
+Mike rebedew Yes mike this is typical for a DSI control to act this way when it at the end of it life. I would replace it before cold weather gets here
Hello...Okay so I have a 1997 Saturn SC1 automatic and NO P0742 I have TWO
P0300 and P0340 codes so I got ALL the stuff too reove the coil and clean
it but was wondering on that "TORQUE" tightning WHAT would I tell Autozone
I need in order too not tighten them too tight? I cant just hand tighten
them since I'm a gurl? LoL thanx I will let you know how it runs when I'm
done =)
Hi, I followed you instructions on replacing the Ignition Modules it fixed
about 95% of the problem. The car still idles very low at stop light and
stop signs and will occasionally die. I am not sure what I could do to
stop this from happening. What would you suggest? Thank You, Steve
Thanks for posting, I just bought a Satun SC2 and we love it. I've had some
miss fire when I first start in the morning and at night when I leave work,
but as I drive for a little while it the miss clears up. No engin light
either, so no codes. I replaced the MAP and Temp sensors, but the miss
still happens on start up. I'll try this cleaning this weekend and see
what happens. Thanks again. Dan
+Daniel John Clayton Yessir, glad I helped :) and indeed, if you can fit your fingers through the metal part of the mount and whatever rubber is left, you needed a new mount anyway.
+Anthony Davis Well, the miss I thought I had turned out to be a motor mount KNOCKING when the fast idle was on. Fixed this and...Ta-Da...everything is good. I am going to do a full tune up for summer and will definitely use your suggestion. Thanks for the help bud. Dan
AWESOME video....I have P0340...PO300 and a PO742 codes 1997 Saturn
SC1(141K on it)and I checked for spark on ignition coils NO spark on 4 & 1
but car still started when I took wires off of those then last 2 had spark
but engine wouldn't start with those wires off....I'm worried about the
P0742 code but as U prob know car sounds like a SCOOTER & wont hardly move
but will not drive it until fixed.....What is with the P0742 code? When car
had NO codes and was driving fine tranny was fine.....Previous owner was a
douche nozzle and he never even changed the oil(its at about 6K miles but
will change SOON) as well as ALL other fluids thanx U are awesome!!!! I
thought I could clean these myself until U said the bolts going back on
have too be tighten too a certain extent instead of me going by just
tightening them as normal lol
P0742: Torque Converter Clutch circuit stuck ON.and yes, bolts have to be tightened to a certain point (yay torque specs..), you don't wanna overtighten it and break it :P and thank you for watching, glad it helped ya!!
Replacing the TFI Module on an 87-93 Mustang
This video shows how to replace the TFI (Thick Film Ignition) Module on 83-95 Mustangs with the 5.0 liter engine. This method is the same with virtually all fuel ...
It doesn't really sound like a fuel pump issue. Usually the car wont run at
all if the fuel pump fails, regardless if the MAP sensor is plugged in or
not. What year Mustang do you have? Does it smoke at all when running with
the MAP sensor unplugged? My initial guesses are O2 sensors, fuel pressure
regulator or EGR, but its difficult to tell without knowing more about the
car. Was it running poorly before it stopped working?
One more thing, don't completely remove the distributor hold-down bolt.
Just loosen it enough to be able to turn the distributor. That will keep
the timing from jumping a tooth on the gear. As long as you are on the
right tooth, you should be able to get it really close. You can use a
timing light to dial it in. I am going to shoot a video this weekend on
timing with a timing light and hopefully it will be up Sunday morning.
Hey man I have a 1990 gt and all of sudden it started stalling when I was
on the highway and doing back fires on the air filter I've already change
spark plugs gas filter ignition coil distrubuter cap Roter and still the
same do you think I have to change the tfy module thanks
So, today my car sat in the parking lot of my work for 8plus hrs. I went to
start it, and just cranked but didnt turn over. Checked solenoid....fine.
cables fine. Fuel lines I could hear the fuel in the lines. Released
pressure from there. Car started fine. Diagnosis? Anyone.?
Dielectric grease is not what you wanna use. It will work for awhile but
the TFI will fail again. Use white dioxide grease. It helps conduct heat
away from the module to the distributor which acts like a heatsink for the
module.
Agreed. Dielectric grease is for weatherproofing connections (preventing
corrosion), thermal compound is used here to transfer heat from the module
to the distributor body. Great video otherwise though!
Fyi, from tons of experience, STAY AWAY FROM THE AUTOZONE TFI's!!!! 50% are
broken when they arrive at the store. Hit up a mom and pop parts store or
order one thru a reputable mustang parts site.
If you go to my site and click the videos link at the top, you can get to
the page for this video. On that page, it has the part numbers for both the
new TFI module and the ignition wrench.
sorry just got back on here. its a 1988 and we out a new fuel pump on it
and it ran for about 5 months and the other day it broke down again doing
the same thing. and no it doesnt smoke
mine did not slide into place that easy at all....every time i'd force it
into place, I would remove it only to notice that the 3 prongs were bent
in...is this normal?
okay thank you but we think its the fuel pump. it will run if you unplug
the map sensor but when you plug it in then it kills the engine. you think
its the fuel pump?
You want to mark the very base of the distributor and also the block. I am
adding a link to a picture of it in the video description. Let me know if
this helps!
I think I took out tfi by hitting the nitrous last night....
Ignition Control Module Info
Ignition Control Module on a 1997 Ford 460 engine. Motorcraft PN F1SF-12A297-C1A. This module is black. If you receive a gray one it is the incorrect module.
Hey Chico
Great information
There's a rv just like yours for sale around the block from my house
They want 30,000 for it
I sure hope you get yours running soon
Would love to see you out traveling or camping liked( thumbs up )
+Rufus N Dufus I don't have any pics but could try to find the ad again for a link. I also saw 2 2003 Intruders for $30k and $40k. The $30k looked better than the $40k (dealer). I was just comparing and am not looking to buy. Just use searchtempest to globaly search craigslist for Damon Intruders. You will find a lot.
+Alaska motorhome I found a 95 Damon Intruder for sale near me for $13,000. It has 25K miles and same paint as Guz. It looks to be as good or better shape than Guz. The dinette is still there and to the left of it is console cabinet for big tv with china cabinet above that. It has near new tires less than year old with 1000 miles on them. It looks to be a good deal like Guz.
How to test an ignition module on a GM 2.2 engine
2004 Saturn Ion 2.2 Misfire Case Study (P0300) To learn more about Engine Performance Diagnostics, go to www.scannerdanner.com This video covers ...
hello scannerdanner love ur videos, my question is how to test a cop coil
with test light. I hock up test light crank the engine, if i have spark
should get a spark from coil to test light right. i dont need to stick
light down the coil boot right just above it right.
ScannerDanner, 1st off thanks a million for the best diagnostic video on
the net. My question is DOES GM MOST GM DEALERS HAVE THAT DIAGNOSTIC
HARNESS U MENTIONED?? I changed plugs n dont wanna waste $$ replacing
working parts..
+staticnate refresh my memory. are you talking about running temporary spark plug wires from the coil housing to the plugs? just use any set of plug wires
I have a 2003 Saturn Ion 2 , My engine light came on an I got a sudden loss
of power and the engine ran hard. I took it down to a auto part store an
the tester said 3 cylinders . So I took it for a tune up , and had the
plugs changed. After the mechanic said I need a Ignition coil an a module,
After changing the plugs it still was back firing an still loss of power ,
do you think I need both parts and if I tried to replace it myself , I can
save $100 but never did this before , any ideas on this will help , Im
disabled an on a fixed income an don't have the money to keep pouring it in
by trusting a unknown mechanic. I didn't see Him using such a machine to
test the coil or module. thanks
+Casey Van yeah , I replaced both the coil an module @ $ 80 a part , works great now an replaced plugs too , The repair shop really tried to rip me off by trying to get me to do a doing a diagnostic for $ 120 , another $ 600 for parts an labor ---NOT ! (LOL) bought all the parts an paid someone to put them in . I was going to try myself but this way it had some guarantee that the labor was done right .Thanks for the help , That was the first thing I did an they said it was firing off 3 cylinders an had a code . I hoped it was just the plugs , and it was but the coil an module too needed to be replaced . All this when I also had an emission test too . How much did wires cost you ?
+Dan Reese Did you take the ignition control module to the parts store? I took mine to the parts store and he tested it. He said it passed. I think I have a short circuit, one of the wires is probably bad, but I don't know which wire.
I found out it was my ICM..just like you explained in your video ..the ICM
was stopping my car from starting(firing)..thank you so much for making
detailed videos..
Hi I have the exact same car and year as this video..I have a question..my
car cranks but won't start..my fuel pump is on and running,my battery is
good and my spark plugs are new..could a ignition control module not let
the car start ? like I said it cranks strong but doesn't start at all..also
we tryed spraying starting fluid and got nothing as well..please help..
Fuel pump is running during cranking or only when you first turn the key on? This is important in identifying whether or not your suspected no spark problem is from a crank sensor or not. We have to address this first. Another way is to tell me if you have injector pulse or not. Can you post this question on my forum if you need more help? Others will jump in and help too.
Like Eric the car guy called u once, Frankenstein or Eiestein, hey, just
kidding, always great videos, ive always wanted to comment, and now that
I upgraded from xp windows to windows 7 I can. so just wanted to let u
know your videos are fantastic. see ya sir
i have a Saturn 2005 ion auto.. that doesn't go reverse but everything else
works perfectly & no one here where i live can tell me what is wrong with
it :(
I am directing all help requests to my forum. Sign up (it's free) and create a new post. Be sure to add a name under "alias" as this is the name that will appear in the post.Here is the link to the forum. //www.scannerdanner.com/ForumRetrieve.aspx?ForumID=3226
Great video. I always seem to like watching your case studies/field work
more than your classroom setting in premium. Don't get me wrong, I try to
watch every premium video I can because it's incredible information for $10
a month. It's just not as enjoyable to watch. I especially enjoy watching
you live in the field (like that mercury fuel pump issue at your friend's
Petes garage).
I knew what you meant. Thank you for this comment. It helps others to know that what I am providing on my premium channel is worth while. Really appreciate your support my friend. Thank you
Absolutely. I think I should have just left that comment to myself. Reading it sounds like a back handed compliment. Having been an aftermarket tech for the last 7 years, it's awesome to take the information I learn from your premium videos and truly apply it like you do in your case studies. (Wiring diagrams are so much easier to read, fuel trims, ground/power side switching, 5 volt ref, input/output, etc,etc).. Experience has taught me how to work on cars, but videos like these/premium videos really teach me how they work and how I can actually diagnose a problem instead of looking at identifix and testing a wire that a person says I should (not to say identifix isn't an awesome tool). Sounds lame but you are an inspiration!
One supports the other don't you think? Wouldn't it be fair to say the live case studies are now more enjoyable because you know exactly what I am testing next and why?
HVAC Service- Honeywell Ignition Control Replacement
Do not try this at home! HVAC training is required. In this video I replace a Honeywell ignition control module on an old York gas pack. Gas furnace sequence of ...
Great job, it feels good when you don't have to worry about something
burning up or burning a place down lot easier to go to sleep at night! Some
of those old controls just didn't hold up good thing they are better
replacements now! I hope you got to enjoy the rest of your day! Take care
Great job Zack !!! I enjoyed a no-call Saturday and became reacquainted
with my recliner, sleep and the sounds of rain falling,LOL. See what you
and Ralph can look forward to in another 10+ years. Take care, Brett
Zack your a slacker!!!! Do one call on a Saturday and go home what's up
with that???? Who am I calling a slacker I only did one call today so I'm
no better LOL. Glad you had the board!!!!
Hey Zack !!! There are a Few Videos on here about your Spring Feast , looks
like Fun for Everyone !!! You are the man Zack , as Always AWESOME
Technical Video my Friend !!!
A look at several spark ignitor ignition controls for gas furnaces. What they are used on. How they cycle. Basic troubleshoot of failures. These are not integrated ...
Gary, I have a 1,000,000 btu boiler (car wash). The pilot lights the main
burner lights then it immediately shuts down and starts again.. pilot-main
burner-shut down. honeywell S86, the boiler is approx 15 years old. Any
advise. Thanks
+grayfurnaceman Can't thank you enough for the reply! I had not thought of that, when the burners do ignite they seem to ignite with more "boom" than I recall. I was going to replace the the S8610 but will pull the top and side off the unit and inspect the burners tomorrow. Thanks again.
+Kim Hensley When the main burner lights, does it pull the flame off the pilot burner? If so, this could be burner problems. As it is a car wash, the burners could be rusting. Hope this helps.GFM
Really enjoy your videos. I do property management and it is good to know
what is going on when the HVAC guys are doing service on the units.
Curious, contractor just replaced one of these ignition modules because of
no spark (and also the ignitor rod thing at the end of the cable). 2 weeks
later, the new module isn't sparking. One thing I am curious about is the
Ground to burner connection (like the one on the honeywell you showed in
this video). Is it supposed to be connected to the "C" marking on the gas
valve? Does the "C" stand for common? I see a "p" on the valve (guessing
for Pilot) and a "M" (guessing for main valve) but wasn't sure what the C
was for and why it connects to Ground Burner connection on the ignition
module.
A have a question I'm working with the fenwall 35 series.sometimes the gas
valve open at delay time after the ignitor lit up then it opens.eventually
the the ignition module will lock out,I've replace the flame sensor and
ignitor,gas pressure at the manifold are ok,air proofing switch close but
what causes the delay?any idea,I've change the module still does the same
thanks
Hello GFM I have a 26 year old gas furnace with a spark ignition/sense in 1
line. The problem I am having is that the pilot lights, the main burners
light, but it goes out after about 30 seconds to 1 minute and then
immediately begins ignition sequence again and does this nonstop. I'm not
sure what to check. The pressure switch has voltage in and out and it's
constant so I don't believe that's the problem. I did notice the spark wire
had a crack in the rubber around the part that connects near the pilot and
was a little loose so i pushed it on really tight and it was fine for 2
weeks. But I just got a call and it's acting up again. Any thoughts?
Hello mr gfm. In a rooftop unit the trouble shooting say: you can see the
light/spark working many times. But you can't see the flame on burners.
There's gas on the pipe but after the main gas valve doesn't go gas through
the burners? Do you think the problem is on the main gas valve?
depends, it might be the sensor is dirty and needs cleaning or the valve, if the sensor is alright and if there is voltage coming through the valve and it isnt doing anything, it might be the valve itself.
+rocafirme1000 I am assuming there is a pilot light that is being lit, but main gas is not coming on. I would look for power output to the gas valve after the pilot lights. Power available, gas valve has failed. No power, ignition control problem. Hope this helps.GFM