My Fien lhd FreesCoaster took me at least five cranks to actually pedal.
Watched the vid an took most of the grease out an now she rolls
beautifully. Could I have had too much grease?
+James Gonzalez I don't think you can really have too much grease inside a freecoaster. Maybe it just needed to be cleaned out... either way glad the vid helped!
I always found it was best to tap the axle out when the driver is still in
the hub, means that it always comes out straight. You can dent the bearing
seat if the bearing comes out even slightly crooked. Any particular reason
for taking it out first?
+Philip Gibbons you have to remove the driver first because it is "screwed" in, if you hammer the axle it won't come out if you haven't removed the driver first
I replaced my Sun Ringle Charger wheelset with Transition Revolution Hubs laced to ZTR Flow Rims coz I needed a 20mm thru axle front end. Not as noisy as ...
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Kink Bike Check
Kink transition frame, volume bars/blank bars, odi long neck grips, Sunday freeze stem, 1664 headset, odyssey director forks, Saltplus trapez front hub, g sport ...
MBR Workshop Video: How to swap axles in a rear Hope Pro II hub
MBR mechanic Al Vines shows you how to convert your hub and stiffen up your bike's rear end.
So, just in case anybody else runs into the problem I just did: the freehub
section of the new style axle is bigger than the old one. so if you have a
new hub, and end up with an older kit, your freehub bearings won't touch
the axle. which is no bueno.
So what do you do when you can't get your freehub body to "click" back on?
You're popping it on with just a slight press of your palm, but I'm putting
mine on the floor and really pressing down on it, and nothing happens.
@taius20 i'm not being saracastic. I'm still a noob when it comes to the
anatomy of a bike. I was just a bit overwhelmed if anything, cause i didn't
thinkg to run into all that stuff.
4:01 WARNING! The axles from the Hope pro 2 EVO hubs are different! (they
are thicker!) you can´t use the old axles nor the "new design axle" as
described here for EVO hubs!
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Millie's Bike
Brought brand new for Birthday October 2010 this Specialized Hotrock 20" wheel girl's bike retailed at £249.99 from Breaking Wind Cycles. The bike is in really ...
Freehub Body Disassembly/Assembly
I show how to disassemble and assemble a Shimano freehub body. I clean, lube and install new bearings into the freehub. I basically overhaul/rebuild the ...
Is it possible to open and lubricate the Freehub Body? I had problems in
cold whether when my pedals were slipping and not moving the rear wheel
like with dropped chain. Thanks
+Nicco Ts ???? That is pretty much what I show in this video. But you really don't need to take it apart to clean it and lube it. Check this other video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQ6XgztsfmU
Hi ! you are the only person in the world to have the true guts to
actually disassemble a freehub body. not even shitmanos website has such a
thing. they do not even have pictures on what a freehub looks like inside.
as I said before you are a heaven sent. god bless you and your family. you
make a good teacher. I just love how detailed your instructions are. keep
up the good work.
+RJ The Bike Guy I had to replace the bearings, and you are right, the races are worn out, Just wondering if I could extend its life a little further , I will just replace the hub, I really appreciate your help and advice, thank you very much.
The shims set the spacing at the factory. Have you replaced the bearings? It could be the bearings are worn. If you have new bearings and everything is tightened down and you still have excessive play, the races are probably worn. Then you might want to look at replacing the freehub.
+RJ The Bike Guy Thank you very much for your interest in my question. I just want to take an excessive amount of play that is present in the hub, if I take out a shim it becomes to tight so just wondering if I could get different shims with different thickness, thanks for the advise, I will get old hubs for parts.
So all of a sudden the freehub on my MTB started to be really sticky. I
decided I should try to fix it myself, and looking for how to do it, I
found your videos on the topic. Inspired by you I just today made a
dissassembly tool from a 21mm socket. Starting to take things apart, I also
found that the rear axle turned kinda rough in the wheel. So I thought I'd
have to replace those bearings too. Continuing on, the stud that holds the
freehub body came off easy, almost too easy. My tool fit nicely in the
slots in the cone/race of the freehub body. But it was on there loose, real
loose. But I still wasn't too alarmed. So I continued my investigation and
took the outer part off, with little ball bearings going everywhere. I then
proceeded to try to take the central part off from the hub, but it was
really stuck on there. So I looked at it closer and saw the the damn thing
was cracked! The center part of the freehub was cracked! I put my 10mm
allen wrench in it and started tipping it back and forth to break it free,
which worked. And at that point I got another surprise, the mating splines
in the wheel hub are damaged from the broken freehub core! So right now I
don't even know if I'll be able to put a new freehub on there. I might have
to file a bit on the splines or something. Sigh!