They glow in real life. Kidding obviously… That's the effect of the shadows
and highlights being pulled up. The only way to fix it is to shoot on a
better camera. I made this video a year ago and since then, I've got a
Canon 5D Mark ii and I would do this very differently.
@memilh This was shot on a Pentax K-x. Not sure what you mean by 'work'.
You can colour grade any footage to a degree. Some cameras will be better
than others and the more flat you can get the profile, the better — allows
for more scope when grading.
I'd be very interested in seeing how you would do it with 5D footage.
Myself, I use a combination of 5D's and 7D's... and sometimes I get to
molest a RED. I use magic bullet occasionally but I have never used it to
create a film effect.
I'm sure I'll get around to doing another video at some point. But since
this last video, as well as acquiring a 5D, I also acquired a daughter so I
have a lot less time these days. Watch this space though. I'll do one
eventually.
@jaworskij No. This tutorial is about colour grading to get the feel of any
16mm format. The aspect ratio used here matches no 16mm stock. It's for
aesthetic reasons.
I just want to thank you Mr.Windsor, I am a Pentax owner who is also a
rapper/musician and people tell me, including fellow Pentax owners, that
I'm not going to get anywhere using video footage with it, but your Colour
Grading tutorial has given me a lot of inspiration, I look forward to
employing it, and posting my work for all of us to see
@stoawayintheflesh Thanks for your comment. Great music videos are about
ideas, not camera quality. For example Michel Gondry's Hardest Button to
Button video he did for the White Stripes. Filmed on a low-fi camcorder but
a simply idea executed well.
That's because it's a different video. I believe the process was pretty
much the same. I think the difference is in the production rather than
post-production (single light source/time of day/handheld shot etc.)
In this video I will show you how to build a DIY photo booth with a DSLR and an iPad. Because there's nothing better than a box of props and a photo booth to ...
+DALE SUMMERS Here's the link to a video that talks through the software I use and the tech behind the photo booth https://youtu.be/E7B-Cj5Ca7Q. I don't have it hooked up to a printer, all of the photos are just shared digitally.
+re ge I use an EyeFi card with an app called Shuttersnitch. Here's a video that goes a little more in depth about the way it works. https://youtu.be/E7B-Cj5Ca7Q
Thanks! He should be ready for a backyard zip line in like a month or two, right?
Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 dslr Lens sharpness test
Here is a test and example show of the sharpness of the tokina 11-16mm f2.8 lens on the nikon d300 dslr If you enjoy my videos please post them on your ...
do you know the difference between a "formal" portrait, ie, school
pictures, license pictures, and this thingy called art? Before cameras were
invented, guess what, portraits existed! And people were creative back
then, and portraits ranged from innovative to bizarre to plain abstract. A
hummingbird could be a a giant dragon-like figure on top of a roman temple.
Yes, if you want a portrait for regulatory purposes, follow the rules, but
art will take a portrait anyway you want to make it.
Hi Dom, thank for your review. I have a question and hope you will answer
it. I'm using this lens with my D90 and I found a problem with Back
Focusing every times when I select the corner area of the focus point.. My
friend got this lens too but it mounted with D300 and found no problem
after all.. I swap this lens with my friend and thinking maybe I got a bad
copy, but it still remain the same.. and my friend got no problem when
using my lens. Sorry for my bad English..Thank you..
My conclusions from my own sharpness tests with this lens, it's sharper
than my 16mp camera can handle at any aperture down to f11 (at all focal
lengths) and then there's a slight loss of sharpness at f16, f22 is not
nice at all and rather muddy though. There's a tiny loss of sharpness in
the very corner of the frame at f2.8. No big deal, you don't even notice it
on close inspection unless you're shooting something textured in the corner.
@DrPillowPaper Well my passion is photographing the night sky and with the
tokina you can go down to 2.8f which realy makes a huge diffrence when you
shoot astro. Also for videos in dark places the tokina was better than the
canon. The sharpeness is pretty much the same also i think...i didnt test
that but just from my pictrues there is not much of a diffrence...maybe in
the corners the canon was a little sharper but not much.
dom pls help, i am fter a camera to restart photography back up, i'm kinda
like a intermediate beginner if you like, was thinking of the new d7000
nikon and maybe the tokina 12-24mm or maybe even the 11-16mm from tokina
also, mainly i will be shooting landscapes, pls advise as i am even
thinking of the new sony nex5 interchangeable lens camera that offers like
dslr quality, what do you think?
What you shooting with? I have a 550d and looking to get an external
flash,are there some flash's out there that can be triggered with my built
in flash as the trigger as I still want the camera flash as the front light
source and the external flash from side on,just like in this video? I'm new
to external flash so any help would be great.
@Dombowerphoto from the videos i have seen already the sony is like for
like against mid range dslr's for sure, yeah the size is small but it does
have a same size sensor as a dslr and far better at low light photography,
and when you think of the cost is your ego really that much to not save
like £800??
@PracticalGuitar NIkon flash system is amazing its ttl metering is all
automatic, but if you want to use an external flash you can use any kind of
flash as a slave flash, just meaning it fires when it sees a flash as well.
ill explain on the blog
@ParkourSchweiz I have the canon 60d as well and I was considering the
canon 10-22 or the tokina 11-16, why would you say that you would rather
have the tokina over the canon? It'd be appreciated if you could tell me
why you chose that one. :)
i've read a lot of your responses to comments - you're really quite
opinionated and annoying, you don't like criticism, do you... now we're
using a wide-angled lens for portraits, maybe we could try a fisheye for
bird photography too...
Hi Dom, thank for your review. I have a question and hope you will answer
it. People said that this lens has a serious problem with Chromatic
Aberration. Do you find this problem with your lens and how about it? Thank
you
This cracked me up this morning, thanks Kim and Dom. for the entertaining
and informative video. I have been considering a ultra wide for my Canon
500D and looking at Sigma 10-20 , Canon 10-22 (pricey) and the Tokina. Rick
@atyl1972 dont be silly, sony nex. fine for a party but you aint going to
see any land scape photographer whipping one of those out on the hill and
attaching to their tripod
@yantan1123 I own a canon 60d and bought the canon ef-s 10-22 and after a
week i had the chance to put the tokina 11-16 on and after that i never
touched the canon again.
@PracticalGuitar Also how do you work out how to allow for the light of the
flash, as in how to work out the amount of exposure without taking tonnes
of attempts?
Hello Dom ! I was wondering why are you holding your camera in the oposide
portrait hand helding. Isn't it harder for you to control your camera? Best
whishes!
i was think about the nikon 12-24 f4 for landscapes but iv recently wanted
to start concert and local band performances would that two stops really
help me?
can I ask for your comment and thoughts with regards to Tokina 11-16 Vs.
Canon EF-S 10-22 on Canon 60D,, having a lot of confusions,, thanks so
much!:D
+John Hnatek This is similar to DPI in digital photography. I have a camera club and people frequently ask me what dots per inch I shoot at. Try as will to explain that in the camera and in the computer the dpi is just meta data, that the photo has no inches, and therefore no dpi you cannot convince people.
I knew what you meant because I make the same mistake. I think there needs to be more clarity about crop sensors impacts on image content. To use FX Full frame aperture settings printed on DX lenses at best creates confusion. +Barry
+Brad Rex That is correct,this lens on my D7000 which has 1.5 crop factor would have the same field of view as a 16-24mm. Maybe I should've worded my comment differently.
+Barry Parker Focal length does not depend on sensor size. This lens on a FF, crop, or not attached to any camera is still an 11-16. The field of view it provides on a 1.6 crop sensor is similar to what a 18-16mm would provide on FF. Think about taking a photo with a FF camera, then in post processing cropping that photo. Did you just change the lens you used? No, you just changed the field of view of your photo.
It over exposes on my d7000 at some focal lengths and auto focus is not
accurate. Sometimes takes too long to focus and recognize. I bought it 3
months ago but didnt have time to test. Now not sure what to do. Still
under warranty though.
On Matrix metering my Nikon lenses behave differently. i understand if the majority of the frame is dark and then of course the camera will make it bright. that is not happening here. it is mis calculating how much area is dark or bright in the frame.
Autofocus is sometimes an issue with fast lenses. Over exposition is your mistake. Well, take a look at the histogram and especially at where you focus. If you focus on dark spots then bright portions of the image are naturally overexposed. Or you go into the more midterm illuminated region, "save" the exposition time (exposure button?) and then go into where you want the focus to be, that's how I do it often, and my canon has less DR than your nikon I fear :-/. Else you could stop your camera down by a few 1/3 stop steps?
At matrix metering it should adjust to how much light is coming in. Like other lenses. I always shoot at aperture priority. I have read issues about this lense exposure issues. What would u recommend for exposure setting. I dont want to take multiple shots and manually adjust. That is not worth. It is not a manual camera or a lens
Overexposing is because of your settings, not because of the lens. Same goes for focus. It's always better to focus manually unless it's impossible for some reason.
Boring, Test Video: Tokina 11-16mm Lens
Gear linked below & //thepodcastersstudio.com/gear I wanted to see for myself how shallow the depth of field would be on this Tokina 11-16mm wide angle ...
Always loved the look of the 11 - 16 from Tokina... but never picked one
up. I really should seeing as I'm still happy shooting on Canon APS-C
cameras :D I'm not all that fond of the focus ring though... like how you
pull it to click it between manual and af (I'm sure its the 11 - 16 that
I'm thinking of).
Still looked amazing even on the standard picture profile :D
This is great Thanks for doing this. very cool lens. I ended up getting the
Canon 10-18mm lens but not sure if this would be a better choice with it's
larger aperture.