Test and review of the Roadpro Hot Pot for (kind of) boiling water. Performance was marginal. It will take most of an hour to get to boiling but in theory could keep ...
At 1.25qt, this holds 2.6lb of water when full. Assuming that that water
is at 50°F to start and the boiling water is needed, that means a delta T
of 162°F. This will require 421.2BTU of energy (1BTU raises 1lb of water
1°F). Assuming a heating element power of 120W, this thing can put
377BTU/hr into the water (1W is 3.143BTU/hr). Assuming no losses, it would
take 67 minutes to boil water when full. Even with a desired temperature
of 180°F, it would take at least 54min and more like over an hour once
losses are accounted for.
I would just use my Trangia Alcohol camping stove 2 cups of water in about
6 minutes.
Seems those 12 volt water things are useless :(
I want to get one, maybe some are better than others ?
The problem right now is that 12v appliances are such a limited market there is not much out there. What is out there is expressly engineered for use with car power outlets which are primarily based on cigar lighters from late 1920s luxury cars. A horribly inefficient power transfer design when you are trying to get appliances to work. Higher amperage 12v appliances are also an extremely limited market and thus not price competitive and very little selection.The car cigar lighter amperage limitations are dismal. You cant efficiently boil water with the power it takes to charge a cell pone, apparently.
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Inexpensive Chicken Coop Heater
This is an inexpensive radiant heater I made for my chickens while they were moulting. This was made entirely with stuff I already had around the garage.
People new to Chickens, PLEASE CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING; electricity has only
been around since the 1850's, how did farmers keep their Chickens alive
then? No heat. How do sparrows survive harsh Winters? No Heat. It is
detrimental to your birds to add heat for several reasons
. #1 FIRE HAZARD
#2 birds become reliant on the warmer temps and in the event of power loss
birds will die.
#3 Chickens are dusty and that dust is flammable!
#4 Heat creates humidity, moisture in the air in a confined coop causes
respiratory ailments and an increased chance of frostbite on combs when
they hit that cold air.
#5 there is no benefit to supplementing heat in a Chicken Coop ask any old
time Farmer watch the expert videos from Tractor Supply . Research this!
This guys design is extra dangerous as he has nothing keeping straw away
from the heat source. Dust and straw will build up on that hot lamp and it
CAN flash over.
Hope this helps.
I have 12 Hens in an UN heated Coop in New England.
+Eric Peloquin Thanks for the video! You normally have to drill out the rivets with a 1/8" drill bit if you used 1/8" rivets. A lot of extra work when you could use either self tap drill point sheet metal screws or you could actually use just about any screw if the hole size is slightly smaller than the screw shank diameter. A grinder or metal file to smooth down the point of the screws if heater is placed where chickens could hurt themselves.
Making a chicken coops yourself is not hard and interesting task. I've
created a straightforward to follow guide to constructing your very own
back yard chicken coop. It's created for that complete newbie, and you do
not require any carpenter's skills.
Its a great idea and I will modify it for my place in the Mountains where temps have dropped to minus 4. Frostbite has been an issue so when the temps drop that low, and radiant heater is needed. Heat lamp use has burned down my coop in the past so wont use them again for a long term heat source