If the door jambs are in good shape and the door itself is all that needs to be replaced, you can purchase a door blank or slab to replace the one you're removing ...
How To Install a Slab Door - The Home Depot
Let The Home Depot show you what it takes to hang a new slab door or to replace a damaged one. We'll also so you the tools required for this moderately ...
I've installed both pre-hung and slab doors. There is no comparison
between the two. PRE-HUNG DOORS ARE MUCH HARDER TO REPLACE.
To replace a pre-hung door, you need to demolish the old doorframe and
casing, and get down to the rough opening. Handling and setting the
replacement pre-hung door is awkward, and you have to "shim" between the
rough opening and the new door frame. It's kind of an art, and don't
attempt it without a 6' level. Say, what kind of flooring do you have
around the old door frame? Think about how to patch or cut that material
to make it agree with the possibly different shape of the new door frame.
That's a surprise headache because you took HD's advice and elected the
pre-hung door.
Forget about Home Depot's advice in this scare video. As one viewer writes
below, sandwich the new slab to the old slab, make sure the lockset holes
agree, and then transcribe the exact locations of the hinges. Yes, you may
need to carefully trim the edges of the new door, but once again, that's
easier because you have the old door right there as a template to copy.
So why is Home Depot trying to scare you into a pre-hung door? They
generate AT LEAST TWICE AS MUCH REVENUE FOR HOME DEPOT AS SLAB DOORS.
I'm looking for info on installing a slab door (old door I found). I have
mortise hinges from the previous door but the cut outs don't match up.
Plus, the door itself is just a couple of inches shy of the frame width.
Would these hinges work just as well without creating additional cut outs?
It looks like the would, but if anyone has experience with this it would
help. I don't want to start drilling holes everywhere & discover it's all
wrong. Thanks!
Place old door down on the saw horses new door ontop line the top and hinge
side up perfectly with the old door. Use a square to transfer the hinge
marks up onto the new door. take old hinge and trace the outline of it onto
the three new hinge markings. Then router it out and thats it. When hanging
a door make sure the hinge side is perfectly level if not your project is
doomed.
Of course if you don't put a bevel on the door edge you will hear a nasty
clunk of the door hitting the jamb when you try to close the door won't
you? First tool I get out is a carpenters square in this imperfect world. I
am a door specialist and they left out 4/5's of the information you need to
do this job but it was fun to watch.
NO NO NO! Remove the hinge pins and place door on ground or on top of new
door then transfer hinge locations with a pencil, router out the hinge
slots and screw hinges onto new door. This is not a 4 on difficulty scale,
it is maybe a 2.
What a fake! Using their technique no one would ever get all three hinges
close enough to where they belong for the door hinge halves to line up with
the hinge halves on the frame.
There's more to replacing a slab than cutting out hinges. This is the
laziest demonstration. More times than not you have to cut or scribe the
slab in order to get it to fit.
It seems like a nifty little gadget for DIY enthusiasts, however it maybe a
little time consuming for a chippie working onsite – more so in the UK. I
still think I would much rather use timber wedges between the door lining
and the wall, but everyone has their own system to which they become
accustom. Complements on the video though, I like how you clearly explain
everything – you would make an excellent teacher to future apprentices
looking to enter the trade if you’re not so already.
You want more strength, just use some more brackets or attach some strips
of heavy gauge sheet metal. Besides, what usually breaks when a door gets
kicked in. The latch side of the door frame splits all to hell. I've had to
fix many an entry door after someone kicked it in on my job. Even one that
was kicked so hard, it broke the deadbolt in two. But the door jamb never
moved out of plumb. I just replaced the inside casing trim, glued the door
jamb, finish nailed, replace hardware, done :)
This "new" product is a copy of a very old one. Doing one re-model on a
house built after WW2 I found something very similar on the interior doors,
a piece of sheet metal that came from the pre-hung door jam for nailing
into the headers/rough openings. There were no nails, shims or screws used
in the door. The underside of the door jams were marked "Globe Mill Works"
I guess the post war housing boom and lack of skilled finish men
necessitated a sheet metal quick fix. I bought this: GREAT
I'd seen this product directly from the manufacturer before watching this
video, and I can tell you that the way the manufacturer recommends the
installation is exactly how Bob said. If you watch the video from the
manufacturer you will see how wobbly the door looks. Even before I watched
this video I had notice that you needed more of those clips to make the
door feel solid. If you had watch that video you would realize Bob doesn't
work for them at all, since he isn't doing it their way.
I hung 3 doors faster than ever tonight using this product, however, like
you I was not completely convinced that 6 brackets on one side would be
enough. I was thinking that I was going to need to go and get some shims
and finishing nails and make it more solid, but after watching this simple
(yet genius) idea, I think that I will take those 3 doors down and put
brackets on the other side. I have 2 more doors to do (5 total) and I
bought a "10 door pack" so it was 'meant to be' I guess.
Lol? My Dad made a similar system using strips of heavy galvanized sheet
metal to connect the door frame to the building framing. He swore it was a
lot stronger than finish nails thru shims. Remember, shims are low grade
timber, and also, the forces of the door are acting at right angles to the
finish nails. So this system is actually a lot stronger, you don't need
shims. Plus, you won't mar the finish of inside the door (no setting nails
and wood filler required here).
I think this is a good question for the manufacturers... but if your wall
frame is made out of metal studs, basically you have the same issue. Thus,
those frames almost never get loose, so I would imagine this system should
work the same way. Although, that was one of the first questions I had when
I first saw this product a while ago. Also questioned the fact that with
the installation made as per the manufacturer's recommendations the door
looked a bit flimsy to me.
First let me say I do recommend using this product. The bigggest advantage
it gives you is keeping the frame in place while making all your
adjustments. Adjustments are easily made by loosening the screws. Each
package contains 6 brackets so you will have to order 2 sets of brackets
per door to install as in this video. I did one door using brackets on just
the front and it was a bit too flimsy. I shimmed behind the top door hinge
just for my own peace of mind.
You are correct,"YEARS" was a bit overdone,however I am sure with you as
with me some doors seem to fall into opening and almost hang themselves and
others,although same situation, can put up a fight and nothing seems to go
well ! This could just be me as a re modeler my job duties range from ditch
digger to cabinet installer and I rarely do the same type work for month
after month as I am sure most DIY'rs are in the same position+++Thanks for
the post Bob
@1INACTION Yes, you only need to cut off the door jamb on the high side of
the floor. This will allow the side of the door that is off the floor to
touch the floor also. IMPORTANT! place door in opening first- shim up low
side only untill top of frame is level,measure distance you shimmed up and
cut that amount off opposite side of jamb(ie side of jamb still touching
floor) Let me know if this is understood before you cut+++Bob
Seems easier and faster to just tack on all your trim to the door casing on
one side of the door then level and plumb that. Shoot trim to the wall
while plumbing and leveling. Shim behind hinges, above and below striker
and top and bottow of striker side. Shoot nails through casing into shims.
Trim backside of door and call it good. Seems like this system adds work
and time. =/ Neat idea I guess.
These things are worth every penny. Home Depot door aisle, orange bag. Same
price as shims with no headache. I only put them on 1 side of the door, not
both, but i added long screws through each of the hinges for strength
(company recommendation). Great video though, it led me to this awesome
product. There is literally 100s of 5 star reviews at home depot..com.
Awesome, just my opinion though :)
Hey, Bob... I'm from Brazil and here we got diferent ways to isntal a door.
But this one is very easy and fast, even to amatour carpentiers like me. My
hobby is to work woods like this almost every weekend. Great job, buddy!!!
By the way... as a country music fan, I liked so much the video intro, with
a solo guitar song. Could you tell me the artist and song's name? I'll be
much glad! See ya!
I dont delete comments unless they have profanities in them. Everyone is
entitled to their opinion it just so happens that I believe it is useful
for people with limited experience. Not a salesman or affiliated with the
maker of this product in any way nor have they contacted me to as much as
buy me a coffee. Sorry you did not find this useful but different strokes
for different folks.+++Bob
blimey this system will take you hours to do. why dont you just use the old
door as a template and use wedges to adjust, i hung my doors 4 of them in
half a day using basic measurements if you cant hang a door dont try. get a
chippy to do it he can do in less then a hour , and maybe cheaper than
buying these systems plus all the tools your need if your a novice.
Apparently you didn't watch the part where he said that he is showing how
to use this new product... in other words, it's almost like a product
review. Not a video to compare which system is better or worst. This helps
many people to know what new products are out there and help them decide
whether or not it's worth trying those products.
My concern, do the small tabs that help position the clip force the
moulding to slightly stand out from the door frame. I suppose the tab would
lay under the indent on the rough side of the moulding & the same with the
tongue which attached to the 2x4. I'd hate to order these things & then
find that my mouldings wudn't sit flush
i like how you keep saying "what they recommend is" as if you don't know
who makes this product. you either make it or are a partner in it. this
makes hanging a door more complicated in my opinion, even for a
first-timer, and you probably know it and will delete this comment. good
salesmanship of a useless product
I don't understand this product at all. If you can follow the instructions
to use the product, you can much more easily just hang the door normally.
Also, why use the other six brackets? If you feel the door is loose,
wouldn't it be much easier to just throw a few shims in and screw through
the frame?
@HomeRemodelWorkshop Bob i am not knocking your vids, but be fair, this
product is supose to be for the layman. alot of people would get boggled by
the things you have to do with this product to get a door plum. i guess
your just showing wha tit intails. anyway i enjoy watching the vids,
thanks.
Seemed more to do with door lining than actually shooting a door. Say like
shooting in a door existing door lining. I'm from UK so we normally have to
shoot and chop recess for hinges in door and lining and chop mortice for
latch and striking plate. Do your doors come pre hung in door lining?
Your method is interesting and I am sure it would provide additional
stability. When I used this system I used the number of brackets
recommended in the kit, but I did replace the center hinge screw with a 2
inch wood screw to anchor the hinge side of the door and provide more
stability.
Always hard to say bad things against the tryed and trusted but with-out
having an experienced person with you to walk you through your first door
there are many mistakes that can be made.This product seems to keep that to
a minimum for the first timer/Diy'er+++Bob
How to Replace or Install a Door
Our door needs a facelift so we are going to show you how to replace an interior door. //nutsandboltsdiy.com/how-to-replace-an-interior-door/
How To Install A Door Knob Or Replace An Interior Door Knob
You Can Stop By //www.thediyguy.net/2013/02/how-to-install-a-door-knob-or-replace-an-interior-door-knob/ . If You Would Like More Information Or Written ...