How to apply ospho Videos

Have you heard of a paint brush? Or foam application brush?

You posted on a product im sure 13k oothers wated to see before they buy the product , lmao, you crack me up , you think too much , you seem confused, next time be ready an do what you need to , like spray ospho with your killer spray bottle!!!!!!

I use ospho a lot with very good results. What you might want to do after using the ospho and letting work for 45 minutes or an hour apply another coat and let it spoke in even more. I have noticed if I don't apply it enough times to get all the rust converted, rust can come back some. Be sure to wire brush any loose rust first as well. Be sure and let it dry at least 24 hours, and if around a pool, probably 48 hours to make sure it is dry before priming and painting with an oil based primer. Tom

i c thats why/// told you i was assuming and thought it was redundunt you did a good job on this vid and im a subscriber now keep it up we always need this in the old car world yhere can never be too many opinions

this is good but if you wait and let it dry no need to rinse i let my apps dry for 2 weeks and havent had any problems jus sayin... i appreciate this guy

ohh… forgot to add, it also appears at 15:45 you did not wash panel No. 2 with water in the final step and just blew it off after applying the Ospho. or did you actually wash it off with water but did not film that ? I bring this up since you filmed washing off panel NO. 3 with water in your video.

Nice overall presentation. However with that said, unless I missed something earlier in the this presentation, i perceive a deficiency in your approach with the 3rd panel as can be observed at 3:51 as follows: " You state that you will apply the Ospho on it initially, scrub it then wash it Off With Water Real Good, and then dry it and then wait 24 hours, then reapply the Ospho on it, then wash it with water then let it dry." With this approach on panel No. 3 you have then effectively and essentially repeated the same procedure as applied to panel No. 2. Why ? Because you washed panel No.3 on the first round with water, thereby effectively neutralizing the Ospho, then the next day you applied Ospho once again, let it set for 5 minutes, then washed it off. Thereby effectively repeating panel No. 2 approach ! What you should of done with panel No. 3: Instead of rinsing with water initially, the Ospho should of been left on the panel over night just like you did with panel No. 1, but then the next day reapply the Ospho to reinitiate the acid, wait 5 minutes, then and only then, thoroughly rinse with water, then thoroughly let dry, as this is the proper approach as advised by Southern Urethanes epoxy primer instructions. Products like "Ospho" or "A Must for Rust" are basically phosphoric acid derivative solutions and are purpose created to allow one to clean up metal, neutralize the oxidation by applying their phosphoric acid product by letting it dry on the surface and effectively then allowing one to keep the product on the metal surface so one has the option to store the clean metal in a protected housed area which is free from dew and repeated moisture without the risk of blush or new rust forming. Then when it comes time to paint using epoxy systems, reactivate the acid by reapplying the phosphoric acid product to the treated panel, then neutralizing the acid with water, then drying the surface. Whereby one can then apply epoxy to the previously treated surface safely without risk of adhesion failures It appears that epoxy paint system configurations reacts with the phosphoric residues on the treated unwashed surfaces whereby reportedly other type paint systems do not react and the lightly scuffed white acid residue actually helps adhesion. Therefore, one can conclude that epoxy is the lone wolf here as a paint type system that will not adhere ideally to an phosphoric acid treated surface. However, this premise is not to be confused with the Cl- ion residue that is left behind on a surface after using a sulfuric acid ( muriatic acid ) solution which is a completely different can of worms as in if one does not neutralize the sulfuric Cl- acid ion with a very strong base ( stronger then water ) like in using baking soda which a has a higher base ph then neutral water, the Cl- acid ion will re-induce oxidation (rust) at the molecular level on the metal surface wherever the opportunity for exposure to oxygen carrying moisture or exposed to atmosphere presents itself.