I have a skip/bang in my 93 z71 truck.. but it doesn't do it all the time,
or even when taking off.. it acts like there is a tooth chipped in the rear
end some place. Only does this when it is first starting out. Or a cold
morning so to say. Also bumps cause this bang in the drive line to occur.
Few months back I hit a stump hauling wood. The truck was vibrating really
bad. Esp after I unloaded the wood. I thought it was stuck in 4wd. So I
revved it an shattered the driveshaft into pieces. I got another drive
shaft. Truck still vibrates really severe. Stops after about 70 mph tho
lol. Yolk is worn out pretty bad where U joint attaches. Cup is bigger on
the Yolk end. An it still has play. Loose. Replaced a bunch of em so far.
Im expecting my first child in December an im really needing opinions of
some one with more experience. I am a welder/mechanic so I can do some work
on autos. Should I buy a rear end completely or do a # like in the video
above ?? Cheapest fix is what im wanting. Doesn't bother me to take rear
end off. Any advice is helpful. Thank you.
Hey Pete, Thanks for all these videos. Sometimes those pins break right
below the threads. If so, drill a hole through the threaded part, re
install it & use a long, flexible (6 or 12 inch 1/8 inch) to drill into the
pin. A small easy out can then be tapped into the hole and the pin removed.
I've even done this in junk yards with a battery powered drill. Of course
everything needs to be cleaned afterward. Knowledge is power & it should be
shared. Keep up the good work!
not all 10 bolts and 12 bolts are that way some of them have bolt in axels.
in that case you have to take the brake drum off and there will be nuts on
the backing plate. take the nuts off and then pull the axel out they are
alittle heavy duty than the c clips axels. you can tell the difference
between the two by what is holding the backing plate on, if the nut is on
the tires side they are bolt in, if the nut is on the inside they are c
clip axels
I think Daryl was referring to the early model ford rearends, since we
where working on a 65 chevy truck he had old on his mind, and your
absolutely correct, the 8.8 mustang rear axle is exactly the same way, the
small bolt that holds the shaft in is an 8mm size wrench and if it doesn't
come out easily, you better apply some heat, because if you strip the head
on that small bolt, you'll have hell to pay getting it out!
How much difference is there between the GM/Chev and Ford rear-ends? Having
replaced the outer axle seals in the 8.8 under my Ranger, I can't see a
whole lot of difference between that and the one in this video, aside from
overall size. Same basic method for pulling the axles. Turn out the
retainer bolt, knock that pin out, pull the horseshoe clip (or C clip if
you prefer) and slide the axle out.
texting, tweeter, facebook, and all that other crap has ruined todays
children in the sense of what the real world is all about..... Sorry to
say, but Dylan is no longer with SWRNC due to the texting and phone use on
the job. It seems that his social life on the world wide web was more
important then the real world we live in...
I wuz thinking the rear end on the older Camaro and nova didn't require
going into the differential to get the axles out....just use the slide
hammer to pull the axles out....I changed bearings on the axles and didn't
have to go inside. seem to recall my dad's 67 chev trk was similar.
one thing I noticed is when you dropped that center pin you didn't talk
about pushing the axles in to remove the keepers also when putting the
axles back in and installing the keepers you need to pull out on the axles
before inserting the pin
Yeah we'll be replacing the panhard bar, just haven't got around to it
yet,, Actually Im installing Air Ride Technology Air Bags and shocks on
this truck,, should be pretty nice when it's all done. be watching for the
upcoming video on it..
You are right. That's the axles you never want in your car. They'll just
pull out by themselves on "spirited" drives. Of course we're talking used
cars with many many miles but still not a design I like.
now that you mention it....I recall seeing cars driving down the road with
the hub and wheel 2 ft away from da car (G) better to have that retention
clip in the diffy
easiest is weld the spiders together. some carriers wont let you got to
3.73, sometimes you need to replace the carrier too. detroit true track is
the way to go
Had that pin drop out of a 5020 John Deere 35 years back. Bent it to an L
shape and cracked the housing. Big job for an 18 y/o apprentice - but I got
'er dun!
those who use their smart phone while on duty during employment hours -
this looks unprofessional esp. with the industry im employed in as a
photographer...
How bout a rear disk brake conversion? Any $ for that?
Ring and Pinion Gear Set Which is Best for your Vehicle | Summit Racing Quick Flicks
This installment of Summit Racing Quick Flicks will help you determine which ring gear set is best for your vehicle. Acceleration and your cruise RPM can be ...
I have a 91 Silverado 454ss stock truck just have a four inch lower in the
back ...also stock tires and rims, the differential starting to make this
really loud noise ,so I went to check it out took the cap off found no
fulid in there it was dry burned everything out ...so now I'm looking to
rebuild it ...but I want to upgrade the gears to 4.10s. with posi would
that be ok to drive around the streets and freeways?? not a everyday driver
+james mendoza , James, your truck had a 14 bolt housing with a 9.5” diameter ring gear from the factory. We have Limited slip units, ring & pinion sets and bearing/shim kits in stock, ready to go when you are! Give our tech line a call at 1-330-630-0240 or visit us at www.summitracing.com
I have an lt1 5.7 in my 1991 S10 with a th350 and 3:08 gears on 235/60/16
tires. I was trying to get more acceleration but I don't want to use it for
strictly drag racing. I want it to be a daily driver that I can play around
in when I want, without it drinking too much gas. What gear ratio do you
think I should go with?
+Stan Bennett , Without knowing more about the motor, specifically the camshaft because it sets the power band of the motor, its hard to say really. If the motor cruises too low in RPM it lugs and uses excessive fuel. If it cruises too high in RPM, it use excessive fuel! Give us a call with more info and we can assist you better. 1-330-630-0240.
I had a quick question..
I have a 2011 chevy silverado 1500. 4.8 with 3.23 gears..
I recently motor swapped it to a 6.0 with
Longtube pacesetter headers.
With a 226/230 Comp cam.
Black hawk c.a.i. K&n
3200 stall.
Tune.
Take off power is there
But top end feels a little sluggish...
Was wondering if 3:73 would help me out.?.
+Summit Racing .... yes was done on a dyno. we did then take out to street to fine tune it. but fuel pressure wasn't holding up to it. pushed 407hp on dyno... but as we took it to the streets we had to dial it down due to not anuff fuel being pumped.. so now I am at 365hp. any intake manifold yu recommend. will the 373 hurt me on top end?.... as my take off from a dig... lets jus say I need drag radials fursure. these highway tires don't really have great traction.. but again whn I'm doin 45mph and then step on it, it's very sluggish..
+Eric Ramirez , A higher numeric gear ratio will help your take off and get your motor to a higher RPM sooner. This will help your acceleration from a stop but most likely hurt you in the top end horsepower department. There are a lot of things to consider here, airflow through the motor on the inlet & exhaust side, the “Tune”, is it the best for the combination, was it done on a dyno under load and then fine tuned while street driving? And last, expectation; you are trying to move a very heavy vehicle with poor aerodynamics compared to a Camaro or Corvette. Give us a call, we can help you through some of this! 1-330-630-0240.
I have an 88 S-10. I just pulled an 5.3l from a local junkyard with 89,000
on it. I ordered a Z06 cam for it since I plan to boost it later on down
the road. I'm saving up now to get the Currie Ford 9" rear you carry that
is a direct bolt in. I have no idea where to go gear wise as this is my
first attempt at building a vehicle. I know I'm going in the street/strip
area, but I do plan on driving it on good days as well a little track time
too. Any suggestions in a gear selection please?
+CBiskitone , This really depends on the total vehicle build plan. Use of the vehicle, build of the motor, transmission and tire size are all factors in choosing the correct gear ratio. Give us a call with all of that info and we can help you choose correctly! 1-330-630-0240. Thanks!
i have a 1991 trans am LB9 305 TPI 700R4 with a G80 2:93:1 gear i was
thinking of 4:10: or 3:73:1 the car is only drove local it does not go on
road trips very far maybe 30 miles at best i have a cold air intake
flowmaster exhaust shorty headers and y pipe 2.5" and 3" pipe back to the
muffler i also have underdrive pulleys and 1.5 full roller rockers and a
180 deg thermostat and a stage 2 jet performance chip which gear do you
think.
+toby clemons , Since it appears you are looking for the quickest acceleration with little to no regard for MPG and RPM’s on the highway, the 4.10:1 ratio would work well here!
i sure hope you find one you should make a video and tell the guys to start
looking around for you too.I have a 12 bolt posi in my 68 chevelle and it
has 488 gears in it i cant wait until you find one i will be looking for
you.send me your tel# in a msg i might have some leads on a 69 later
I just got done rebuilding my 10 bolt rear end. You are a real gear head
because you have the frigging thing in your house. Nothing beats waking up
to the smell of grease. Go for it!!
+Luis Rosas two ways. open up the cover on the differential and note the two numbers on the ring gear. Divide those two numbers. Many times, the ratio is listed in the glove box