Suzuki samurai fiberglass hood Videos

that is cool!

Thanks, guys.

+God Uploaded 24 hours ago. Man you gotta keep more on the ball that that! Hahahaha.

+WJP004 when will you be adding another video of the build really excited to see whats next

+WJP004 thanks for getting back to me so fast this helps me a lot.. love the buggy by the way

+Andrew Thompson I simply used the front subframe of the donor fwd car as a rear sub frame and fabricated the rear buggy frame up to it (as shown in the videos). That way all your mounting points for the wishbones and roll bar are made for you. All you have to do is mount the cut steering rack ends to points on the chassis, and make mounting points for your shock absorbers/coil overs depending on whether you use the complete factory front struts in the rear, or if you change them and mount them off the lower wishbones attach a double shear point to the lower wishbone and a top mount up onto the chassis for the strut top.

+Michael Vann lol me too hahaha, this guy is awesome

+TheMrkylester101 At present 95% of my time & money have to go into the 2 storey home I am building by myself. The other 5% goes on racing * maintaining the Muscle Hatch. The buggy has just got to wait until I get my wife & I out of the shed we're living in on site , but I am still working on the bodywork & have the next installment half finished. Oh - then there's the dirt VW MkIV Golf my son asked me to build him over the racing break which I now have to do a motor swap on!

+WJP004 Ahhh ok then I thought the DIE was the MOULD lol

+Julzilla the die IS redundant because what I have made off it is the MOULD. It is in the MOULD that I will make the actual body panels (next video). So if I damage a body panel whilst racing (this HAS been known to happen!), I go back to the MOULDS to make new panels. In other words this is a THREE step production process - not a TWO step one.

+65bellett Easy.Good question I will make the main rear & front body shells out of fiberglass, but will do my standard rally car body panels strengthening of the edges with Kevlar tape. (See Fiberglass tutorial No.12 - 12.23). This prevents the edge fragmentation under racing conditions that we've both experienced on the dirt as Kevlar's advantage over CF and fiberglass is that it won't tear or chip.

+MONGOOSE GAMING The horsepower would depend on what donor car you used to source your major components like engine, transmission and maybe suspension. On a farm even 100bhp will scare your passengers enough in a tube chassis, but this is a LOT of work and requires lots of experience in fabrication, electrics, automotive engineering let alone the fiberglass. Instead I would suggest just getting a crashed 4WD sedan from the insurance auctions and just stripping it and cutting off any panels you don't need on a farm. This will leave all electrics, fuel systems, suspension & the floor in place, but it will still go fast because of increasing the power to weight ratio. Look at cars like Subaru which have a proven reliability as a road car, or compact 2 litre SUV's. You could chop the whole roof off & fit a basic rollcage, getting rid of all the glass which is very heavy. Easy to do this. Use it to gain experience working on cars, and then just before you get married build yourself a tube frame buggy before a wife & kids puts the lid on such activities for the next thirty years.

+Will B Online purchases are usually dearer. Try Fibreglass Solutions Inc. 205 Hodsman Road Regina, SK S4N5W5 (306) 525-8881

+WJP004 I'm in the middle of Saskatchewan Canada. I've talked to a few body shops and they get theirs from distributors and won't resell to me.No worries though. I've got a few places online I've got my eye on. Just hoping you had a lead on some good online places to buy from :)

+Will B It is like child's play..but as messy as playing in a mud hole! Worse, actually. I try to minimize the inevitable mess by covering the floor with heavy cardboard, wearing disposable overalls, & cutting my cloth before I start to avoid the hairy scissors that then won't cut. Plus I always have a box of disposable gloves to hand (get the pun?), and as soon as they get hairy I change them. Yes I buy locally, but where are you Will?

Just bought one. I'm filming the bare basics of the engine removal process, but will likely wait until it's all filmed and stitch it together. Will be mostly descriptive, not too visual. As of now, I have almost everything disconnected. Still need to undo the engine/trans mounts and driveshaft. Then I can hoist it out.

Old Mercedes love to rot away. The rockers, floors and jacking boxes just rot away. Just put the jack in the jacking box and jack up on it to see if it can pick up the car. Watch out!! better carry a little floor jack with you. you need a fabrication shop to fix the old mercedes rot bucket.

I'm currently patching up floor rust in my 1983. This car is far worse, with damage to the firewall, windshield frame, cowl panel, and rear window frame, too. It sat in a field for 13-15 years, which did the car no favors.

The 1979 has a different glow plug system and hadn't been started in 13 years. It took a bit of effort. I was able to start it again much more easily the next day. I'll probably keep the 1983 engine as a spare.

I had rust in that exact area that I patched up a few months ago. A little fiberglass work and it was pretty solid. That carpet is awfully hard to remove in some places and it covers up those trouble areas.

well the '83 certainly starts better than the '79, no question about that. but they are both diesel engines and hence would have a longer life span than that of a gasoline engine.

I'm less concerned about the frayed parts (animal damage - mice came into the car through the rust holes) as I am about disease and whatnot. I vacuumed out the mats for now.

Most likely the engine and transmission as a unit (the '79 was parked with a new clutch - the '83 needs a clutch). Also, probably the interior. Not sure what else yet.

Yes (well, a nice used set, anyway), but I'm toying with the idea of reselling that and using the molded backing plates to make new mats for the 1983.

I was just gonna ask about the clutch. do you think that the clutch is still good after that long and is it the same one as your '83?

Oh yeah I meant since the floor mats are torn on this car obviously you're gonna want something a little nicer.