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Qrd1114 working Videos

QRD1114 Reflective Object Sensor

This sensor uses an infrared emitting diode combined with an infrared phototransistor to detect the reflected infrared signal. Ideal for sensing black-to-white ...

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KORBIN KIMBALL commented on 12 Nov 2015
hi im new to embedded systems and i bought this to measure RMP's but first all i want it to do is measure light vs dark, do you have any test code that will just count up when it sees a change from light to dark?
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cjellwood commented on 27 Feb 2014
How well would this work on fabric? Could it detect the distance from a Tshirt reliably, and the same if the Tshirt was black or white?
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Troy Pinkney commented on 11 Sep 2014
would this work for a line under some ice? or would the ice's reflection cause too much interference?

test with QRD1114

QRD1114 sensor controlling a 10mm LED with Arduino.

Treadmill Motor Controller For My Gingery Lathe

It's been a while since I had a chance to work on my Gingery Lathe, however I'm fairly satisfied with how my DC Treadmill Motor Controller is working and will be ...

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Zincy ellowmach1 commented on 25 Feb 2016
Not sure if you are still working on the lathe at all but first I would like to say thanks for the videos, you really inspired me to new levels planning my lathe. Second I wanted to run something by you. On the lead screw I have been toying with the idea of running a separate drive motor just for lead screw movement. Also I have been thinking of using a raspberry pi to control a digital pot which would connect to the pwm controller on the treadmill motor system. This would have a couple benefits, one you could program different threading combinations to be able to thread stock etc, second you would be able to reverse or change the speed of the spindle and lead screw independently, or even stop the lead screw without having the lock. Give me your thoughts if you get a chance! Thanks again for the great videos!
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Morgan Demers commented on 12 Feb 2013
I don't have an oscilloscope, but with simulation, without the diode arrangement the output was short pulses which may have been missed by the PIC's schmitt trigger input when the pulses came in at a high frequency. Using the level shifter produced a nice 50% duty on the output waveform with a pulsed input with long rise + fall times ( similar to the sensor transitioning from reflective to non-reflective ). At this point with the QRD1114, I have tested with a 136 res encoder with good results
https://gp3.googleusercontent.com/-0--ESgfwvYo/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAAAAA/M_hpfBOrzTA/s48-c-k-no/photo.jpg?sz=64
Morgan Demers commented on 11 Feb 2013
It's hard to say, when I started the project metal casting, scraping, machine tool work was all new to me. If I had prior experience it would possibly have gone faster. I also started the project when my son was born so I really only worked on it when I had a chance - it's hard to look back and get a concrete number, as I started the project in 2009 and it definitely didn't officially take 3-4 years of actual time to build, but probably would have taken me 6-12 months if I had 4 hours a day
https://gp3.googleusercontent.com/-0--ESgfwvYo/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAAAAA/M_hpfBOrzTA/s48-c-k-no/photo.jpg?sz=64
Morgan Demers commented on 02 Jan 2013
Thanks for lurking Frank :) I'm definitely excited that people are interested in the videos. Definitely keep an eye out for on the blog ( possibly subscribe to the email feed, as it sends a notice when I make a new post there ). I'm currently working through my controller code ( commenting / cleaning up / etc.. ) and will be posting that + eagle board layouts, schematics, and parts list to my blog at some point in the near future. This is a PWM controller, VFD would be for AC Motors.
https://gp3.googleusercontent.com/-xTihY06Kjvs/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAAAAA/YbL4m6B9-2s/s48-c-k-no/photo.jpg?sz=64
Frank Spillman commented on 28 Dec 2012
Hi, Morgan, I am in the planning stages of building a wood lathe, for which I would like to build about a 2 hp variable speed motor set up. Thanks for this vid, I will definitely check out the others plus your blog, I am very interested in your controller schematics as that is the weakest point in my personal knowledge (I am a mech engineer). I can program the pic or other microcontroller, it is the guts of the VFD that I need help with. Anyway, watch for me lurking! Thanks again!
https://gp3.googleusercontent.com/-0--ESgfwvYo/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAAAAA/M_hpfBOrzTA/s48-c-k-no/photo.jpg?sz=64
Morgan Demers commented on 12 Feb 2013
haha no problem, I was just about to give a response too :) Basically with the proper ( spec'd ) current going through the IR diode, the dot on the wheel is ~1/8". I ended up driving the diode with ~3mA vs. ~10mA, and then amplified the signal from the photo transistor with a simple npn common emitter amplifier. I ended up level shifting the output from the sensor photo transistor to the base of the NPN with 3 - 1N914 diodes - this produced a nice waveform on the tach input pin.
https://gp3.googleusercontent.com/-0--ESgfwvYo/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAAAAA/M_hpfBOrzTA/s48-c-k-no/photo.jpg?sz=64
Morgan Demers commented on 10 Nov 2012
Hey, Thanks for watching the video, you should checkout my 'Lathe Project' playlist as I have many more videos about the project and have improved on what is in this video substantially... Also, I'll be posting my controller & driver schematics, board layouts, pic c18 code, etc... online soon - so if you are interested in building the same controller definitely checkout my project blog from time to time - morgandemers[dot]com. Cheers, Morgan
https://gp3.googleusercontent.com/-0--ESgfwvYo/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAAAAA/M_hpfBOrzTA/s48-c-k-no/photo.jpg?sz=64
Morgan Demers commented on 12 Feb 2013
Definitely checkout the blog, under Projects > DC Motor Controller & Driver. I have the who project downloadable as a zip file. It has all the schematics, I even have PNG images of them if you don't want to install eagle. It can give a better idea of what was done. I could have also used a schmitt buffer for the tach to get a nice digital output to the PIC, but I wanted to use as few / cheap components as possible that I had on hand...
https://gp3.googleusercontent.com/-0--ESgfwvYo/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAAAAA/M_hpfBOrzTA/s48-c-k-no/photo.jpg?sz=64
Morgan Demers commented on 11 Feb 2013
The encoder wheel works great, the main thing is getting the sensor to work well - it took me a while to tune that aspect of it, but right now I have it very accurately reading a 96 resolution encoder, and have tested with a 136 resolution encoder with good success so I'll probably switch it out at some point. Details of my tachometer are on my blog - you can download the project files, etc... if you are interested.
https://gp3.googleusercontent.com/-0--ESgfwvYo/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAAAAA/M_hpfBOrzTA/s48-c-k-no/photo.jpg?sz=64
Morgan Demers commented on 13 Feb 2013
With the lower drive current on the IR emitter in the QRD1114, the output of the photo transistor swings from 3.4V-2V ( as far as I recall at this point ). Without the diodes shifting the voltage down below 0.6V the NPN transistor would never turn off. The npn transistor is operating in saturation mode so the output is basically a hi or low output ( 3.4V-0V ).
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knikula commented on 10 Nov 2012
thanks for responding...I have a couple sick treadmills to play with...I run them into the ground. I bought a couple gingery books back in the late 80's...you did some really nice work with those casting. I've only melted AL a couple times, years ago. Looking forward to more vids from you...Thanks...
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3space commented on 10 Feb 2013
Another nice job! Would you mind posting how long you spent on each Gingery development step (at least within 1/2 order of magnitude say)? Thinking about starting this, but then I noticed that some never finish, and others seem like it took them 2 years or so to build. Thanks!
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Morgan Demers commented on 31 Jan 2013
Yes, you are correct - all the speeds suggested in the video are actually twice as fast as stated. My controller was in it's early infancy in this video. Please take a look at my more recent videos to see the newer / more stable controller in action. Cheers, Morgan
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24歳、学生です（T@M0N72HS1） commented on 27 Jan 2016
It appears that the shaft bearing is plain bearing, and it was made by you. isn't it? If it is true, I would like to know that how did you make it? I 'm sorry when I use wrong English.
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MrGoatflakes commented on 01 Feb 2013
Well done! So how well does the encoder work. I was surprised that you didn't use a Gray code wheel, but then I realised you only needed rpm, not a rotational position.
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Maurício Dias commented on 24 Dec 2012
Hi Morgan, you "project blog from time to time - morgandemers[dot]com" is expired on 12/23/2012, another place where I can find your project to be able to mount?
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Morgan Demers commented on 25 Mar 2013
Hey David, if you go to my blog's projects page you will find the driver circuit and everything else for this project. morgandemers[dot]com[slash]?page_id=444
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MrGoatflakes commented on 12 Feb 2013
cool. But what sort of problems did you have with the sensor and how did you resolve them? Do you have videos on it? Thanks you are a great inspiration :D
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firefoxik75 commented on 31 Jan 2013
Just a question, one moment you say 60RPM, but shaft looks to be spinning like 120RPM (twice in second), dont you have to do reading pulses divide by two?
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MrGoatflakes commented on 12 Feb 2013
Derp sorry I didn't read your response you said it's all on your blog :p~
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Morgan Demers commented on 25 Dec 2012
Hey viumau, sorry about that, should be loading again. Cheers! Morgan

Arduino Music Mood Lamp - 아두이노 노래하는 터치등

I made a music light with Arduino. It is possible to turn on and off by touching QRD1114 photo sensor on the outer part of the light. It is my first work with Arduino.

DIY electronic Bagpipes

based on ATMega32 microcontroller, DAC8541 and QRD1114 infrared sensors for the chanter. The distorsion you can hear in this video is not audible in the ...

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Paolo Pandolfi commented on 21 Jul 2015
Ciao, vorrei avere piu informazioni riguardo a questo interessante progetto... Come posso contattarti?? Grazie !
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