This error has been in my car since the beginning. Symptoms are that out-of-the-blue it gives error message "Power steering malfunction" and light up some of ...
Ford Focus 1.6 Engine Shaking
Not the best video I know, this is a problem I am having with my Focus - the whole engine block seems to excessively shake and it sends vibrations through the ...
lek7686 are you on ffoc? i had a similar engine vibration, but when you rev
a little it stops and you cant hear anyting, the cure for me was the airbox
tapping on the strut, the bit where the front shocks go into and get
bolted. i wedged a bit of foam between the metal and the airbox to stop it.
it was quite loud in the car but iv not heard it since i put the foam
there... believe me i thought it was the engine 2 but cleaned my ears and
checked everything, urs myt be difrent but this myt work 4u
@octaviantudor Yep very minor engine vibration is normal, but from looking
at a friend's petrol Focus engine bay - his engine does not shake as much
as mine does. Yeah a couple of people off my local Ford Focus forum have
told me that they had the same problem as me and they got their's fixed
after having the rear mount replaced and as you said - it's down to the
rubber deteriorating and causing excessive play. I have already got a
genuine replacement from Ford so I am going to get it done soon.
oops, already said that.. octaviantudor - iv never hear of a harmonic
balancer but the crankshaft pulley on my car has been changed as the rubber
was prety much perished... but word of advice, make sure you get a garage
who knows what theyre doing, i had mine changed and they must of let an
apprentice tighten it up because when they started it the timing changed
resulting in a piston having a valve stuck in it and the engine needing a
rebuild. the crankshaft bolt must always be replaced with new
this could be similar to what my car used to do. where your airbox is
located, one corner is right next to the suspension hitting on the metal...
this is what caused mine to make quite a loud ish annoying tapping sound
from inside the car. as you rev the car a bit the engine vibrates less or
more whatever and doesnt make a noise... so i just stuffed a peice of foam
inbetween the airbox and the metal to keep the box steady so it doesnt move
about. mine only made a noise on idle as well. good luck
@LEK7686 Thanks for the fast reply on this. I was thinking maybe the
Harmonic balancer. But these balancers are inside the motor and the timing
chain or belt rides on them. Or easier probably is to disconnect the torque
converter and slide it away from the motor and then start it . If there is
no more shaking? The torque converter is garbage. That's gonna be my next
step The car will shake when the torque converter is on its way out. Just
an idea. Its one thing i will check before Harm balancer
I hope that telling you about the balancer will not bring another thing to
think about... this balancer, if it exists on our cars, may be responsible
for excessive engine vibrations. But we must see the difference between
excessive engine shaking and vibrations transmitted to the chassis. The
causes for these two symptoms may differ as well. It seems that the
mechanics are superficial in your country as well... can we find one to
precisely diagnose a problem? We have to dig out to find answers.
As I understand the deteriorated rubber of the rear mount is not causing
excessive play, on the contrary, it becomes too rigid and thus the play is
too small and the vibration is transferred to the chassis so the whole car
vibrates. On the other hand I’ve heard about the existence of a "harmonic
balancer" (a kind of a pulley mounted on the crankshaft) that can be
damaged - as another cause for engine shaking. I don't know if our SE
Zetecs have such a balancer. Do you know about this balancer?
@octaviantudor Hi There, Yep I've still got the problem and so far I have
had the visible engine mount replaced on the left hand side of the engine,
new spark plugs & a new coil pack, fault code scan on the car returned no
fault codes at all and I had the timing belt & tensioner replaced
yesterday. I have been advised by a few people that it's more than likely
the rear engine mount that is just visible underneath the car that needs
replacing so I'm going to get this done next.
Hello! I have the same car, the same engine and... the same problem... I've
changed the spark plugs but the vibration persists. I've checked all the
vacuum hoses and they are all right. I've cleaned the idle control valve
and the throttle body. Still no improvement... I went to a garage and OBD
tested the car. Everything is ok. A mechanic checked the engine mounts and
said they are all right. The exhaust system is ok. Did you find out what's
the reason for this vibration?
I forgot to mention as well that I noticed that during heavy rainy / wet
weather the vibration does not seem to be as bad in the car strangely
(maybe because if it is the mount, it's wet and therefore helps temporarily
cure the vibration until dry again?) Also I am getting a new smart phone
next week that has 720p HD video recording so I will be able to upload a
new video that will hopefully will be better quality which will make the
engine shaking more clear to view.
A mechanic told me that the engine vibration itself is normal but I
shouldn't feel it in the car. On the Romanian Ford Owners Club’s forum (I’m
a club member) are discussions about this between people that had
encountered the same problem. Some of them said that the rear engine
mount's rubber, because of its exposed location under the car (subject to
water, wind...), in time, hardens and does not its job anymore. In these
cases there are not visible defects.
@j62ade It's funny you should say that, I actually found out the other day
that my Focus has never had a timing belt change and the garage who told me
before it had been done, but infact it was the aux belt & tensioner that
was replaced previously so now I do need to get the timing & timing
tensioner replaced. Over here in the UK the Focus's recommended timing belt
change is at 100,000 miles and mine is at 115,000 miles so mine is 15,000
miles overdue.
@iotache Do you mean the visible mount that is slightly underneath the
engine coolant tank? If so I have already had this one replaced and it made
absolutely no difference. I have also got a brand new rear engine mount as
I have been told that the rear ones are known to cause this problem after
changing the clutch (rear engine mount needs to be removed in order to
carry out a clutch change) and my clutch was done 2 weeks before I got the
car.
@kevykev38 Not yet unfortunately, I haven been informed that I may need my
ECU updating to the latest software version as this may fix the problem but
I'm not sure without getting it done but to get it done over here in the UK
it will cost me around £70 (I have noticed you are in the US so the
equivilant to around $110 where you are). I am going to make a new video
this week to try and make the engine shaking more noticable.
Hi there, yes it turned out to be the rear engine mount (also known as the
dog bone mount) and I replaced it for a brand new one and it did cure 90%
of the problem, the shaking inside the car was still only very slightly
noticeable whenever the car had the AC on but it was no where near as bad
as it was. I put the rest of the shaking down to the wear & the mileage of
the engine and it was on 135,000 miles when I sold it.
Update: I replaced the spark plugs 2 weeks ago - still no different and I
had a proper look at the HT leads and they all looked fairly newish so I
think they are ok and don't need replacing. I also purchased an ELM327
OBDII fault code scanner a few weeks ago as well and ran a fault code scan
& live diagnostics on the car which returned no fault codes / stored codes
or any other errors on the car at all.
Engine Failure 2.0 tdci Ford Focus
Ford's car garage can't diagnoze what is the problem with engine of my car. Anybody can help me? Maybe someone had the same problem. From time to time ...
I have had similar fault, may not be your problem but worth a look. There
is a weakness with the fuel pumps on these engines which ford denies and
never recalled. What happens is the fuel pumps slowy begin to break down
over time, this process is speeded up if the car has ever been miss-fueled
(had petrol put in by mistake) small flakes of metal (the broken fuel pump)
evenyually work there way through the fuel system contaminating everything
in the whole fuel system including the injectors.
There can be several reasons. 1. Soot deposits on your EGR valve. EGR valve
is electronic/pneumatic flap for air intake and exhaust gas recirculation.
When ECU detects that flap in EGR is stuck, it raises and error and turns
engine into limp mode to prevent damage. Solution: Change EGR valve and
check air inlet sensors for engine oil traces (clean up ) 2. DPF filter is
clogged preventing normal exhaust and returning gases back into turbine and
choking engine Solution: Change DPF filter.
this problem can be caused by travelling at low revs. so for example if you
are travelling slowly in 6th gear the engine cant stall because you are
moving too fast. this causes the engine management system to think it has a
fault and puts the car into safe mode. This has happened to me in Ford
focus, ford mondeo and ford fiesta. the best way to resolve is to switch
engine off and leave a few minutes and restart. all should be ok. Failing
that it may need a service. Good Luck
i had something like this on a Peugeot 406 HDI, it would drive along fine
and then suddenly no power and the revs would sit at 800rpm. It spent many
hours at the garage. It turned out to be a faulty brake light switch at the
pedal causing the brake lights to come on. The cars ECU was taking it that
i was braking and accelerating at the same time, so it would cut the power
to the engine, as if you had stamped on both pedals by accident in an
emergency stop.
Are you still having the problem? I had the same problem several times - it
ended up being the particle filter. I had the entire thing cleaned (twice)
- the second time, they cleaned the sensor as well. Since then I've had no
problem. What happens is you have to drive on the highway at at least 100
kmh for a longer period of time, otherwise it won't regenerate itself. If
you drive mostly in the city, the filter gets clogged up.
It's very simple. Note that this happens only if, the engine and burn the
glow plug light is not quenched. At this point, your engine works at half
of a common rail fuel is not give it all 4 cylinders. Does not happen only
to you. For me this is like trying to catch fire when the engine is warm,
and is not wait as the glow plug light goes off. sorry for my English. as
you have any questions write willing to answer
@madmak2005 Yes, it usually starts in about 4th gear, but once it has
started it carries over to other gears as well. I don't have a solution at
all - I just try to take my foot off the gas and sort of gingerly
accelerate, and eventually it stops. I've taken it back to the dealership
twice and they haven't found any problem. I have another appointment on
Monday. If they find the problem I'll let you know.
@mcorvet yes they did and it's not that. When the engine "freeze" there is
some minimal reaction from accelerator pedal. I made a test when the engine
was in malfunction state and I was driving 110 km/h. On sixth gear without
pressing accel. pedal the car was slowing down what is normal. But after
pressing the pedal down the car was slowing a bit more! Not too much but I
could feel that.
sadly our ford repair shope where i lived worked on my parents car trying
to fix a shaking issue with the car and it went though the shop threes
times and the first two the said it was fixed when it was still way off.to
say the least they raised hell on those people.
kalitesiz yakıt kullanımı etkilerinden olabilir diye düşünüyorum. sanki
motorda sıkıntı yok ama yakıt ile ilgili algılama problemi var.yakıt
sistemi temizleyicileriniz 2-3 depo da bir kullanmakta fayda var. özellikle
bor katkılı olanlarını.
My daughters ford focus isnt starting ..theres nothing when i turn the
key...but everythings working like the radio, lights, indicators, heater
all o.k. just nothing when i turn the key ..Can anyone help me please !!!!
x its a 1.8 tdci 06 plate !!!
Just a shot in the dark have they tried diagnosing it to the accelerator
pedal or the throttle pedal sensor only saying this because the older
mondeo's was notorious for having this problem because it was a fly by wire
and not a cable :) good luck
I think you are correct - about a year and a half ago I had the sensor
cleaned in addition to the particulate filter - no problem since then (also
I make sure to drive mostly long distances on the highway rather than in
the city).
The problem is with the particulate filter. Just clogged. Diesel vehicles
need to be driven periodically over long distances out of town to be able
to regenerate the particulate filter, to drive at high speed for a long
time.
Hi Tomasz, I have the same problem on my ford c max 2.0 tdci euro 3. I have
blanking the egr valve 20.000 km ago and Now the I driving the car stall
and rev stay to 800 no more 1k rev. How you had solved the problem? Thanks
@Mattbro often after the gear change? I didn't find any solution. What I do
now is driving on high revs for a 10-20 km. After that there is no problem
for a month. Is suspect the DPF system. Maybe it can't clean correctly?
Ford Check Engine Light Repair Service San Antonio Kirby TX Red McCombs Automotive Family
//redmccombsservice.com/ Red McCombs Automotive Family 13663 W IH-10 San-Antonio TX Kirby TX, 78249 The Red McCombs Automotive Family are ...
On this race I went from pole position back to the end of the grid with a free will start from the pitlane. I had the plan to meet with Joe Henderson with his silver ...
Mondeo TDCi's are the faultiest most unreliable diesels I know. Our service
mechanics at RAC had them & cursed them for weak clutches, flywheels, ECUs,
injectors, EGR valves, leaks, etc & managers couldn't wait to swap them for
Toyota Avensis D4D T-spirits! I always thought 2.0/2.2 TDCi Ghias must be
as good as, if not, better than the Avensis as Mondeos are quieter to
travel in & seem refined enough but not one single manager ever liked them
or said they would buy one. So I might avoid them lol
Every Transit we had at RAC had that same engine, the engines would always
make individual rattles on each of the vans. 50% of the fleet would pull as
smooth as silk, quiet idle, nicely balanced pedals. while the other 50%
would feel horrible, vibration or snapping of the clutch, jerky torque
power, smoke like Jenny Eclair & sound like a bag of nuts on a washing
machine. Ford have always been a hit & miss on reliability, with TDCi's
being an absolute no go area. I can't see why people buy them?
Glad I got rid of mine:- £1300 for a new injector pump after cutting out
unexpectedly (thankfully, never on the motorway). Accelerator stopped
working on motorway, managed on tickover to get down a slip road. Two
broken front coil springs and top bearings. Fuel pump by rear wheel
developed a hole, another £156 to replace. And who wants to take the
exhaust off to adjust the handbrake. Last MOT bill was £700 at a ford
dealer. Trade in allowance was just £300 which goes to show how bad it is.
I have £7,000. I see a Skoda Octavia VRS 170TDi & A Ford Mondeo ST 2.2TDCi.
I drive the ST & automatically want it more because its a slightly quieter
diesel. I wouldn't see the more smoke than a VRS & I don't cotton on to how
crap the injectors could be. As long as the Mondeo feels better & is
quieter it must be more refined & more economical! Then I learn that the PD
Octavia is more economical by 8Mpg, doesn't smoke as much & I am landed
with inj/bills as well as crap depreciation, too late!
eu team injurat fraiere?! fututi gura ta de roman imputit ce esti! sugeo de
la ranault cat poti! vrei motare cu turatie mica si putere: solutia ford
focus 1.8 tdci 116cp! zboara! nu cacaturi de ranault aia is masini?! urate
ca curu lu bunamea si masini naspa! io nam spus ca motorul de vw e bun! ca
peste 130km/h manca ulei ca nici nu trebuie sa schibi uleiul la ea! dar
probeaza un focus! sau ceva! nu cacaturi de renault! bina nu imi vi aici cu
laganu'!sa nu imi mai sci bine?! ca ma inervezi!!!!
right time for some facts i have worked in the motor trade for nearly 21
years years at a toyota garageon the yts scheme then with a vw dealer for
13 years managed a german car specialist for couple of years since then and
up to this day i work for a ford retaler all of these jobs have been in the
parts & service dept i also do warranty claims for the ford retailer yes i
accept ALL CARS have their faults no matter who makes them not all mondeo's
have 2 mass flywheel faults or inj/pump faults!!
Well actually... No I didn't pay anything towards the piece of Ford shit ha
ha. My company Focus wasn't a Mondeo it was a PSA 2.0L TDCi & all the parts
were still from an american company called doofus a.k.a Delphi. I worked
with RAC who had these same ghastly engines in the shitty Transits, they
didn't have the DMF's to fuck up like the Mundanos do however they still
had the same ECU trouble & Throttle actuators failing & injector failures
as Mundanos do. RAC were the ones who got the bills!
Clarkson gets paid to say nice things about them on Top Gear, Ford hold a
gun to his head. Even though the Mondeo is the same size car & same
category as an Avensis I have noticed that there is quite a vast interior
quality difference between them more so, reliability. Ford are very good at
making their cars appear & drive as if its something very expensive & they
make out they put real effort in the making of it. Its not until after you
buy one you start to think "hang on a minute" its crap!
Typical Ford owner... Knows Zero about cars, Gets the so called reliability
facts off 2 motoring websites & beleives every biased predicament thats
made. People who actually know a thing or two about cars who got thier
hands greasy from mechanical experience don't have Ford, Rover, Fiat,
French or Korean!!! When your injectors & fuel pump pack up like Mondeo
TDCis do, buy another Ford! why not go for the 2008 Mondeo & have endless
sealage leaks, ECU problems, electrics, & juddering clutches!
All the line managers at RAC were picky bastards & seemed very keen to swap
Fords for Toyotas. Toyota are getting a bashing now in the media but every
line manager I know has been pleased with their Avensis or Auris, none of
them I knew were ever satisfied with a Mondeo or a Focus. They always said
they were crap. We have white Taxi's in Southampton, after a night out, the
white Avensis Taxi's are a much nicer ride to go back home in then the
white Mondeo's. Avensis's are like armchairs.
u need "Wynns EGR Valve Cleaner" take the Air Hose off (at the EGR valve
end) - start her up, (shock horror! yes, start the engine with the air hose
disconnected) spray all of the can (short 2 - 5 second burst) into the
inlet. I've done it, returns power to the engine, EGR re-circulates carbon
rich exhaust gases back through the combustion chamber to allow it to be
burnt a 2nd time, reducing black smoke out the back, hence the fumes out
the oil filler cap, tis normal for this engine :)
u need "Wynns EGR Valve Cleaner" take the Air Hose off (at the EGR valve
end) - start her up, (shock horror! yes, start the engine with the air hose
disconnected) spray all of the can (short 2 - 5 second burst) into the
inlet. I've done it, returns power to the engine, EGR re-circulates carbon
rich exhaust gases back through the combustion chamber to allow it to be
burnt a 2nd time, reducing black smoke out the back, hence the fumes out
the oil filler cap, tis normal for this engine :)
The trouble is with TG is that they base their road reviews on theories,
emotions 'how driving the car makes you feel', practicality, handling. They
never tell you how poor the manufacturers service is or how unreliable the
car is. Sometimes they tell you about fuel consumption but thats about it.
Jeremy loved the Fiesta & claimed he had a dependable Ford at home. I have
never had a dependable company Ford, all my Fords were bastards at some
point. Its enough to make me stick with VAG.
Am testat mondeo, le-am studiat oferta si am ajuns la urmatoarea concluzie:
-condus greoi in oras datorita gabaritului -greutate mare in raport cu
vechiul mondeo -vizibilitate deficitara la volan data de forma caroseriei
-motoare TDCi lenese la regimuri joase(sub 2000rpm -putere maxima de 140cp
pentru motoarele diesel -cutie automata disponibila numai pe motorul
2.0tdci 130cp -ruliu pronuntat in viraje -finisaje de calitate medie
elemente de design ce imita lemnul:| -consum ridicat
Sometimes they are smooth sometimes not, Ive always Ford as company
cars/vans & driven all the managers Mondeos. People will say they are
always effortless reliable engines but after having driven more TDDi/TDCi
Fords than I've ever driven any other car I can't say I would ever have one
myself unless it was as cheap as a Rover. Yeah, They are very smokey
engines under a hard throttle not much refinement compared to a Toyota
Avsensis D4D which are boring but lovely cars to drive.
I'M on my second mondeo not because they're bad, they're actually quite
good. the trick is with a mondeo is to do your homework. my first mondeo
was an (L) reg 1.8 td i have no problems with it other than the airbag
warning light stayed on it had damn near 400K on the clock no issues i now
own an (05) mondeo 2.0 tdci ps130 i've only had it 4 months and i have no
complains with it even in the cold starts with no glow plugs all the way
down to -12. honest they're not that bad.