How to run dryer vent Videos

1. Definitely check the owners manual of your dryer to make sure you don't exceed maximum length. Every 90 deg turn adds a virtual 5 feet. 2. Insulate the attic portion completely to avoid condensation. 3. Use hard duct, not anything flex. 4. I would somehow figure out a way to make it easy to disconnect and clean out, perhaps install a T somewhere with a cap on it. 5. Remember NO SCREWS use clamps and foil tape. You can use a U clamp and screw it to the wall however.

Hard pipe in a crawlspace is very important to keep mice and critters from getting in the house. If the pipe goes a long stretch and the crawl gets cold, you may want to consider insulating around the last few feet of ductwork as well; as the air slows down and gets cooler, the moisture will condense and rust/corrode the duct from the inside out. Don't insulate the whole thing, only the last 25% or so.

You'll only need to add a booster fan if the length of run exceeds the manufacturers spec. Your owners manual will say how many feet vertical and horizontal you can go. New Energy Star dryers can usually go over 20 feet (but every 90 degree turn=5 feet of run) older dryers are a little less than that, but if they're smooth turns you should be okay. Does that help?

Yes, I assume you're talking about the semi-rigid like is at the dryer end of the one in this video. The aluminum is about the thickness of a pop can and can be cut with a knife or scissors pretty easily. Just be sure that when you push the dryer back in place you don't kink the hose because it bends so easily. Also remember to use clamps and foil tape, no screws.

Thx. Have you seen the dryer vent periscope? Whirlpool makes it. Easy to find on the internet. Search "dryer vent periscope". That would work real well in my application if I ran it horizontal and then ran a standard vent vertical up to exit. Do you know of any limitations on these dryer vent periscopes? Thank man. Any advice is much appreciated.

Ok, great. Have you ever used DryerFlex hose? This is the claim on their site: "The only flexible UL 2158A Class 0 dryer duct hose that meets the International Residential & Mechanical Codes (M1502, 504)." It appears to be easier to work with than semi-rigid and it's comparable in price. I'm leaning towards using it instead of semi-rigid.

The periscope is okay if space is really an issue, but it creates a lot of turbulence by design and I think it would extend the dryer run times. Dryers are rated by the mfg for maximum length of run for a vent. Each 90 degree bend adds another 5 (virtual) feet to the run, so a Periscope would be like adding over 10 feet.

I've seen their site and I think they made some comments on this video a while back. Their product looks pretty convincing and would be an alternative to rigid/semi-rigid, but not quite as good. Give it at try and let me know. If you don't use all of it, take the excess and try to set it on fire from the inside.

If space is really an issue, the recessed box (like DryerBox) that fits into the wall is a much better option. More work to install it, but gets you even more room than the periscope with less restriction. 90% of the new construction homes we test (300 per year!) have DryerBox installed.

Thanks for posting this video. Flexible foil tubing and duct tape were used to vent through my crawl space, and I now have holes throughout the line and lint blown all over the place. I suspect that rats were chewing on it. I just bought rigid and semi-rigid tubing to correct this issue.

Can the metal duct pipe be replaced with the bendable aluminum ones? The reason I ask is that the aluminum ones are $5 and disposable. Very difficult to clean the metal pipes with a vacuum and I'd rather just throw it away after a few years if using the flexible aluminum.

I believe I added a few links to the first video "Dryer Vent Installation Bad Idea" so you can find a few on Amazon for comparison. They're not much. You can probably get the whole thing done for $10 to $20 depending on the length and how many clamps/corners you need.

Dryer vent looks to be installed incorrectly. Up at the top it looks to be two 90 degree elbows a foot apart . The space between to elbows should be at least 4 feet. If the two elbows must be closer than 4ft apart you would deduct 10 ft from the total length.

Hi there, thanks for the video. Now I am in the same situation and my question to you is, do you use an adittional buster-fan to pump out the air. Dryer is in the basement and it is going out just at main level and not through roof. Thanks for your answer.

there is a way to put the rigid 4'' pipe ? if i start with the male adaptor from the first pipe , i think i will have some air restriction inside and dust stuck between , we understand the way is to the dryer to outside , and if a have many longer of pipe

Hi, Matt. I ended up using all the DryerFlex, so I couldn't test it. I sent you a message with a link to some pics. I thought the DryerFlex was a bit easier to work with than the semi-rigid I'd considered installing, and it seems to be fairly durable.

Hey you would be better off using the energy efficent elbows from In-O-Vate Technologies. You would get a 1 to1 ratio instead of being deducted 5ft. Much smoother elbows, that would get it done.

Can't do recessed box. It's an old house with stone walls and deep in the basement. So it's probably better to just bend the vent and go up to the exit. Thanks man.

Hi Matt, I have no choice but to run a dryer vent up into the attic and then to an outside wall, what safeguards should I consider? Thanks

+jaydeeself Thank You! I knew if I left this comment alone, someone would come to my defense.

I am a firefighter in south dallas. These catch on fire all the time, because they are usually kinked, or full of lent. When the dryer vent gets full it backs up into the unit, then the lent gets near the heating elements, causing the fire.

+one2many I'd be suspect. The description says it's "fire resistant" but it could still be flammable material. It sure looks like the same material. It'll surely dry and crack over time and might melt. Hold a flame to a little piece of the end and see what it does.

+Rachel Riouse Duct tape was never intended for use on ducts. It's actually a misnomer from when the tape was developed as DUCK tape. The problem with using it on anything that will get warm (ducts, dryer vents, etc) is that the glue dries out and crystallizes and the tape falls off. If you want to seal your ducts with something besides caulk or mastic, they make UL Listed tapes which are heat resistant and stay put on ducts.

+Roger Larson Thank you Roger. I ignore and sometimes delete the really hateful comments, but I like leaving the ones in which show how ignorant some people are and I always appreciate viewers like you coming to my defense.

+Matt KnowsThat they are made for bathroom fans, i still don't like it, i get the aluminum ones.but they are for bathroom fans,is just some people use anything that looks like what they need,some contractor use ir because is less expensive,and they jus whant to get pay for doing mistakes.

+pemogo71 They are not illegal, but they should be. In most areas, they are illegal for contractors to install them, but homeowners can still buy them and do it themselves.

+stevecytfme Actually I don't sell anything or do any contracting work, just energy audits and good advice to save energy and keep people safe. Thanks for watching.

Great job. Glad I could help you do it right. You'd be surprised what you can fix and do yourself with a little courage and a few tools.

+Matt KnowsThat thanks Matt. This video helped me a lot. I was just gonna pick up whatever I saw there. I picked up a heavy duty vent. I installed it myself. Ugh feel so grown up

There are a few brands out there, but the key is to get something that is ACTUALLY metal. If you look for keywords like rigid or semi-rigid and UL Listed. Actually there are a couple links in the description of the video that take you out to Amazon to buy some good product. Thanks for asking, happy to help.

Good detailed tutorial & good camera work. Very complete.

12:31 Make sure the grille is level.

Thanks for the tips. Well done!!

Props bro you do it like a pro.

+James Mitchell I made a video on that very thing, on my other channel: //youtu.be/W0bulKb_Gso

Thanks for the informative video!.... What is your take on using PVC pipe instead of metal for the vent. Lately I have been seeing some installers using PVC and I wasn't sure if that was something that works. I have also seen installers using PVC for hot water heater venting. Let me know what you think. Thanks again!

Great job. Going to run a new dryer vent from myself and it is basically the same set up as you did in your video. Did you use a 4" Snap lock Rigid run or a solid piece? The only rigid type I can find is the "Snap Lock". I would like to find the solid no snap lock. Do you know where I could purchase? Thanks!

Hey Brenda, I wish I had an answer for you, I have been to a lot of house where the coil's have been so clogged from the dryer vents that it has taken extra time to clean it up before I could service the unit. Most people have no ideal the damage it will cause by letting it run dirty. Thanks for watching!!!!

Hey Brett, there's a ton of incorrectly installed dryer vents out there I try to fix them when the homeowner let's me (some will some won't) but either way I do try. Thanks for watching

wish you would have shown the entire install under the house and how you hund the vent pipe.

can one use rivets ?

Thanks Zach

+Photolight PhotoLight PS send me a photo or two dozen and I will give you better advice --- wish you the best. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfmFpO-bd-8

+Jeff Cranston -- Jeff, the 8 inch duct is not going to be cheap so I would not go the way of buying a 8 inch core bit... with that said, you want to make sure the right turn and the the duct work can flex somewhat or you may run into elevation issues... That is you have the hole you create lower than the actual location you need to be. So, make a template out of cardboard (as more friendly than paper).The opening for the 8 inch duct work will come from the top of this range hood - as they all do once you go with the 8 inch opening... So, installing the hole in the wall mounted cabinet first is the way to go with that. 1.) make sure your wall mounted cabinet is secured to wall in the permanent location. 2.) make a template (using box the hood came in) 3.) dry-fit the underhood mount to underside of wall mounted cabinet (to confirm it will fit - no screws at this time as running screws in and out of face frame of cabinet might ream the holes 4.) after getting the fit confirmed use the template (on the underside of cabinet) to locate 8 inch opening (actually you will draw that from the underside and make it 8 1/4" to allow for the outside dimensions of your 8 inch duct work (90 degree - adjustable). 5.) if you need to extend that height you can do with 8 inch straight length of pipe ( note: you cut the pipe while it is still open with shears - then roll it closed afterwards) 6.) use the dry-fitting of the pipes to locate your back of the wall opening for the 8 inch penetration through the cabinet, drywall / plaster, etc.NOW HERE IS WHERE YOU WILL HAVE TO CONFIRM THAT NO WIRING IS BEHIND THAT CABINET, MIGHT EVEN BE A STUD, AND SOME OTHER WILD CARD (depending on what might be there - you will address at that point). It may simple require you to use that flexible 90 degree on an angle to clear a stud etc.You can go to the top of the cabinet or use the 4 inches or so where the hood will block the back of the wall as your exploratory hole... just look directly under where you will make the opening above and make an opening there - the FULL width of your opening above. Check for obstructions and if a go - then proceed slowly above. Removing layer upon layer and checking as you go for any surprises.7.) you finally made it to the ''inside" of the exterior wall. (so if your wall is block, of a type you can easily match with some small patching cement and some paint)... then do NOT be hard on yourself and have at that opening with a pilot bit to locate opening - roughly. I would not go nuts on making 25 holes in an 8 inch circle and then pound it through as you have seen you can waste a long time on that approach and then wind up taking a hammer to the opening anyway.8.) set your depth and exterior mount for this 8 inch pipe. -- here is a "thimble" you may consider or not https://jet.com/product/detail/f1113acfe61d4f3b81e6d334384b6a3a?jcmp=pla:ggl:brands_home_garden_a2:home_garden_a2_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=6986f98a-b357-48d7-a5f0-66b978959cec&gclid=Cj0KEQiAg7ayBRD8qqSGt-fj6uYBEiQAucjOwU5Xwm-Fl4V4FG6N9Z1gHwoANh0D7Y2p6Zy_FyQBhycaAi4u8P8HAQ9.) either way use pope rivet tool (cheap and easy to use) and not screws to secure your duct together. Start from the outside - first as that will get you a tight fit on wall. Use a urethane caulk behind the exterior flange (sika-flex product is nice).10.) make sure the duct work on the outside has a pitch that is NOT to the point that if water was to get around the top of exterior hood - - water would roll into your kitchen cabinet.11.) make sure you put a screen over exterior vent (if one is not included in design (just bend chicken wire into a pan shape and friction fit it -- throw this away if you see it get creasy and replace)... don't use crease to cook with - lol 12.) install undermount hood - and electric ( that hole you created in wall earlier makes for a great hole to fish your electric up or down to get to "add " the hard wiring for the vent.13.) install very tightly the 90 degree and any extensions needed to close this system off to the outside -- use metal tape around all seems to help with a great installation. 14.) Go outside and look at your job from a distance and notice what you made a mistake on and say oh FU ,,, (fix that problem) ...15.) actually if your whole in the exterior is greater than exactly the opening you need then - install a "sacrificial piece of 8 inch duct work in opening PLUS ADD A SLEEVE OF CARDBOARD AROUND SAID DUCT WORK TO ALLOW FOR REMOVAL AFTER THIS NEXT STEP.16.) Most block are hollow and you cannot simple through your concrete patch around pipe as it may fall down entire wall... so get a bunch of rubble - you broke through wall with and and rocks and fill void in block -(they will jamb up fast - unless you use 3/4" stone - in that case - lol )... once you have it closely filled up then you will use the $5.00 bag of masonry mix you purchased from store (it is a ready mix that requires no sand - just add water)... make is so it will stick to your trowel - when you pick it up (I will try to do video for you tomorrow - it might be raining here so that might be an extra day)... for that repair (DO NOT BE INTIMIDATED BY THAT REPAIR). LET that repair harden overnight and remove sleeve and reinstall system (that is when you add urethane caulk, etc.) ... --- as far as anchoring the exterior hood to wall -- use a very small exterior screw - like a nice finish screw if it will be noticeable --- you can simple pre-drill with a cheap concrete drill bit in four corners and plug holes with a lead anchor and run your nice finish screw into that lead anchor (you are just using the anchor for something to pull your ductwork into wall system --- tip - most guys take a scrap of wood and tear a corner off of it - like a giant splinter and pound that in a hole they make and then cut if even with wall and then screw into that)... but, I had to tell you the proper way also. -- You make that decision based on your comfort level.17.) paint that repair BUT wait 28 days for concrete to cure -- yes, that little bit of concrete also needs 28 days before painting. Or say to hell with it and paint it. PS I HAVE ANOTHER CHANNEL that does construction -- I just share on here by mistake actually as I did not switch accounts when I uploaded - -- (it happens).

See if you can figure out where the rebar might be? They actually have a tool you can rent to find rebar and electric in a wall before cutting. Hilti and Bosch are two companies that have them and you should be able to find a rental on either?

Thanks!  I have to add a dyer vent to a 2nd floor unit in an older concrete building in Florida.  I am not sure what i'm gonna encounter.  I want to be properly tooled up!  

+Aaron Sawyer for sure a core drill might be faster but the web and the sill anchor would have still been an issue. This was just a location it had to be in as no other workable location inside. You take the good with the bad sometimes.

about a month later - lol -