ok 1st thanks, and to those who need help watch this,,i've owned dump
trucks since 95,call me stupid but i always thought go clockwise to take up
the wear but it was counter clockwise to move throw out toward the clutch,i
have a eaton fuller 2000 easy petal i think,well mine works ideal like this
guy says with 1/2 inch rule- clutch to throw out, but because of turning
the flywheel so many times i have at least 3/4 inch- rear of throwout to
front of clutch brake and tranny side,i only have 1 inch of free play and
the fork is real close to the throw out but without changing linkage i cant
get it to be 1/8 inch but i dont ride the clutch pedal and will make sure
to monitor freeplay,my clutch disengages way up at the top but i prefer it
that way rather than near the floor,my question to mid america is does this
seem ok to leave this way?clutch brake seems sweet right now and was not
working at all recently,after a "professional" adjusted it :( so thanks and
hope this is clear English to those reading it and helps also,
i had a clutch replaced on my truck volvo 770. 500 miles later my throw-out
bearing breaks and im able to pull it out of bell housing cover. what do u
think caused it to break?
I dunno I think you should have a pro do a job this important not just for
your safety but also everyone on the road with you. Example - correct wheel
end torque, knuckle shimming, set pins, adjustment of brakes and etc... its
good you save money but at least get a pro to supervise the fine details.
Like why you have glitter oil dont just inspect bearings but hub, races,
and spindle also need inspecting and proper final torque procedures
couple stupid questions.. im an auto tech so i dont ever do kingpins or
work on this stuff but is there any alignment required after this? and how
are the nuts for the bearings adjusted? are they torqued down or left a
little loose for normal bearing play? just curious
Dad, thats a real truckers arse. Got one myself. Been sitting on it so long
its all squished away. We dont need this kind of work at our age. Get a 20
year old to wreck it for you. Yeah ,I know , young kids , what would they
know. Thanks for the vid .
Thank you for these videos. I think I might tackle it myself. As for the
"fine details" guy... You must be a piss poor Mechanic to not be able to
set brakes or the proper torque. That's pretty simple to do. Shims are
pretty straight forward too.
The kingpin I'm trying to take it just won't budge. I used a compression
lift while sledge hamming the top part down. The piece on the lift can't
push any higher though. Now I'm stumped. You know anything?
Heat is your friend,heat the beam around the pin and as long as you have
not mushroomed the top of the pin it should come out , if it is mushed you
will have to grind the top down to get it to come out...
Thanks from Australia Great vid. Intelligence Is gained by getting your
hands dirty, not in a book. 9 times out of 10, the book fails to tell you
all the things that can go wrong. Cheers mate.
Ok. so i got the king pin out. now i have to disassemble the knuckle to take it for pressing.. what a **** of a job. (replace * with your usual cuss words). aah ill get ...
yes we call them split pins or cotter pins in old terms, now that pin that
you took out is called a cotter, double checked on my old parts list i have
for my truck,leyland 420 fg, i did mine and they were a pig to do, the
cotter pin was beaten so har it knarled over, and the kingpin was also
seized, dont forget to ream those bushes,when its it will be sweet,good
luck
Well it makes sense dont it, a pin thats split :-) Not sure about the
origin of the word "cotter". Perhaps chamfer pin or wedge pin would be a
closer name?? I think ive been programmed from very early on to call the
ones in pushbikes as cotter, but that style of design is long dead with the
fancy and sometimes pain in the arse methods used nowdays lol.
Well done mate, im sure some mechanical problems are there only to test
your patience :-) Oow a cotter pin like the ones found in pushbike crank to
peddle arm assembly, now thats a memory from the past, dam i am old lol.
And yes im english so i call it a cotter pin, not to be mixed up with a
split pin, for your american viewers :-)
Yep thats a split pin. But as i said to Ed, the cotter pin to me is a
chamfered lock pin with a threaded section for the lock nut. Ive noticed
that american people call a "Split pin" a "cotter pin" and i was a tad
confused at the start.
No offence taken! Hehe. When it gets too hard for me i have a crazy
mechanic i know who will do anything. They type of mechanic who isn't happy
unless he and everything around him is covered in black grease!