Catalytic converter cleaner at autozone Videos

Why would you wanna clean it anyways its gonna get dirty like in 2 days?

+2zzLift Car Washes with Under body sprayers will get tons of water in the engine compartment as well. Not much harm as the engine can evaporate most of the water after washing.

+2zzLift You do realize that most car sensors are essentially water tight, right? Let alone spark plugs. If water can seep through then the air mixture inside the cylinder could too.

+2zzLift Don't take your car out in the rain and hit water puddles ... wake the fuck up!

Agree. well said

+2zzLift Show us on video how you do it better and perfect.

No it comes from underneath, there is nothing to stop salty gritty dirty water getting in there. How do you think the engine bay gets dirty in the first place.

well something wrong your hood lol..

You engine gets soaked every time you drive in the rain.

Apparently you can, i prefer to unplug the negative terminal on the battery and just bag the fuse box although its sealed fairly well and wash it.I don't have a distributor cap though, to my knowledge.After washing it, i let the sun evaporate most water with the hood closed before connecting the battery up.

+sergio5428 That is cool! I want to do a snorkel!

+doesn't matter Thanks! You wont ruin your car if you do simple things to start. Just gotta have some confidence and give it a shot!

+Chris Ulrich Yes but you need to make sure it drys completely, The alcohol is not only a good solvent but it drys very fast and completely.

It might not last but it's a good way to protect your car from rusting until spring

+Monkey D. Luffy i actually like the way he says it its quite relaxing for some reason

No, exhausts come galvanized. I painted the rest

+Scott Watkins Unless you have an "expansion tank" type of system, my guess would be no; you would most likely not be able to get accurate results. Might sniff some, but it's designed to go directly into the neck of the radiator or the expansion tank. r-

+350Zquicksilver Hi! One who works on this kind of stuff doing repairs will never 'recommend' a quick-fix for a repair, like this. The proper thing to do is to repair the vehicle, IF you plan on keeping it and IF it's worth the investment. My recommendation will always be to repair the engine properly - find the cause and repair it as well as the resulting damages. However, I understand your situation of course! Mechanically-speaking, I haven't heard of anyone treating their vehicle more than once, so I can't really recommend that. Anytime chemical additives are added to an engine like this, it will make some changes - depending on where the damage is. My suggestion would be to treat it once, and plan on replacing the vehicle. That said, I would never sell a vehicle with issues like this without disclosing it - which of course means you'll get near to nothing for it. I would simply try to buy some time with it, and if you want to gamble and treat it multiple times, the results will be unknown, really. In my case, we drove it til it dropped, then sold it super cheap, with full disclosure. I did get about a year and a half out of it, and it wasn't worth my time to follow up with the company on their ultimate guarantee that it was a 'permanent' repair. But it helped me when I needed it. Wish you luck, and would love to hear back! r-

+reluctorvalve - Do you recommend adding it every year, if you're in a desperate situation?  $35-60 a year is a lot less then a $1000+ head gasket replacement on a 11yr old vehicle with 185K on it.

Awesome thanks for the info and the help ...

+Rene Morales Yes, it did. I have a Part 2 to this video where I show the same block testing after the Blue Devil was added to the car. It worked for about a year and a half, but then the car finally overheated again. I chose not to spend the money on the repair, and sold the car really cheap. The Blue Devil helped me a TON when I needed it to. Check out my Part 2 video! r-

Oliver: Recently uploaded the new video on this repair.  It's long, but took two months of shooting and editing...I think it's a good informational video for those looking for this kinda stuff.  So- kept it coming, as you asked.  Next up:  Toyota 3.0L V6 timing  belt and water pump replacement, from the same 'how-to' angle.  r-

+Oliver Mark Drews I'm currently working on a new video for future upload as we speak...very deep, but not overly technical. A pair of cylinder heads are coming off of a '99 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L Magnum truck and will be replaced (found out today that the OEM ones are cracked).  A generalized head gasket replacement example video typical of a V8 engine.  Again, my approach is to an audience who may not be sure they want to delve into this, or they may decide to.  Not overly-technical, but more or so informational.  Shot and now editing the disassembly process at this time.  The cleaning and reassembly still to do. My goal is to have the truck up and running by early to mid December, with the new video fully edited and uploaded sometime perhaps in January.  Lighting, shooting and editing greatly slows the entire process, but I love doing this stuff!  Bought a new lighting kit and also a new HD POV camera to help with the more detailed views and descriptions.  I have to say that so far, the video is looking pretty good and very informational! Thx for keeping a watch out!  r-

Good to know, thank you for the reply.

Jose - I used the 32 oz, with the flush process.  I can't tell you how the other works, but the one I used worked for me for a few years.  I'd probably recommend the 32 'full process' version over the 'just add' version, myself.  r-