good video very informative..I just wish that you had more light so we
could see better.. thank you NoGarageDIYer.. not damaging the seal in the
transmission case is the key, right? when you are tapping on the shaft to
move it one inch where does the other end of the shaft go?? does it go into
the transmission? Best wishes
I've got an 04 2.5 awd and am looking for some more info. Do I have to
drain the tranny? I just did the control arms and ball joints so they
should come out easy, but its looking like I need a new passenger front
axle.
If your truck is making a grinding noise on drive and won't move, you come to the right place for information that might help you fix your problem.About three ...
+sportivomania So I just had to drop the drive shaft and press out and replace the U-Joint
Lower Control Arm Wishbone Replacement Volvo V70 S60 S80
PLEASE PRESS LIKE if you find this useful. Thank you. I show you the quickest and simplest way replace your control arm, which is also known as a wishbone.
I changed the bottom control arm on my Volvo and it was impossible to do it
on my own following the instructions in the Haynes manual. I had to get my
two hefty son in laws to push down on a 5 ft long bar to be able to get the
bottom ball joint back in. IMPOSSiBLE TO DO ON YOUR OWN.
Wish I had seen this prior to spending two separate weekends, replacing both arms following the Haynes manual. Just was not strong enough to leaver the arm down, and fit the bottom ball joint on my own.
Yes, Haynes can leave you high and dry sometimes which is why I make some of the videos. I've since found out that the ratchet method I show is also the official Volvo way of reinstalling the arm.
Useful video - note that the lower arms are different on the 06-07 V70
phase 2 - the earlier cars have alloy arms as shown in the video, the later
ones are steel arms in a slightly different shape, most of the video still
applies though.
I have a 98 C70 That has the four bolt pattern. Have you ever done anything
like that before? I can't seem to find ANY videos on youtube... My control
arms have the ball joint, and then 2 bolts on the left side, and two bolts
on the right side. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
My '04 S80 is in desperate need of this work. I've watched this video
numerous times and think its fantastic.. Still nervous about taking this
on, but I think this weekend is the time. I didn't see the engine bolts(?)
loosened in the video, so I'm not clear where in the process that happens.
Also was this the driver side or the passenger side? Important to note, I'm
from the US.
Thanks for your comment. To save confusion, I'll just say left and right side (as you sit in the car) so this video shows the left side front control arm being replaced. I briefly show how you access the the front bush bolts on the right side because they're slightly obstructed by the oil sump so you need a good fitting offset spanner because there's insufficient room for a ratchet and socket. Other than that, both arms are replaced in the same way.You don't need to remove engine mount bolts and lift the engine if you use the spanner method on the right side. Access to all the bolts on the left side is unrestricted.
The repair of my Volvo S80 M66 manual transmission which got damaged while running without driving shafts inserted. Not much EV related but it might be ...
+Michael Neuweiler there should be no gevcu and controller, dcdc and charger should be one. the gevcu is entirely the wrong direction even if the price wasn't so ridiculous on top of that. I can make an AC controller profitable for less than that.
+Dan Frederiksen I see your point. The fact that the GEVCUs sold commercially are not really cheap is true. But it's open source and other possibilities exist. I got my GEVCU 4.3 without casing and wifi for much less. But already the parts cost 150-200.- The product itself is great and offers many possibilities (yes, I'm biased because I provide a lot of code to it). E.g. I'm going to use it to query the ECU for the throttle pedal position via can, control the motor, the charging, the DC-DC converter - all via CAN bus.Does it make sense to spend so much money? I think that's a question everybody is going to answer differently. Does it make sense to spend >1000.- for a TV and waste part of your life in front of it watching mindless shows or movies?There are cheaper solutions around - one could even go for electric bikes. I wanted a decent car with some creature comforts, not a cheesy Leaf/iMiev/Smart. But a Tesla would not fit into my budget. And I wanted to take on the challange. Yes, I fixed some pinball's before and know my way with the soldering iron, yet I'm not an engineer. All I did before with my car was washing it, change the tyres and fill up the oil and washer tank. Not even an oil-change!But you're right, Jack makes it sound too easy - and the fixation on old VW's covnersions doesn't really help. There's much more out there in the world to be converted.It's feasible for nerdy software developers, biologists or musicians but there are quite some hurdles to overcome. Once you've overcome them, the reward is all the bigger. For some of them I'm really proud and happy I was able to learn so much. Nobody's going to take that away from me. And buying an electric car would not have brought me there.Would I do it again? If it was the first car, yes absolutely. But doing another car - probably not.. (although a boat would be really tempting)
+macdieter23558 I agree with the sentiment but Michael is not your average man. Iirc he's some kind of engineer.I agree we have the opportunity for a while yet to shame the idiot obtuse car makers but not with this current approach of using massively overpriced motors and controllers and every little step is a massive engineering exercise.When you can buy a used leaf for 12k$ then it just doesn't make sense to spend 40k$ and a lot of effort on a half decent conversion that has almost zero resale value and can only be serviced by the converter or at great expense.If we are to make a difference in the world we have to wake up and wake up Jack the densoid to that fact that you can get high rpm industrial AC motors for 150$ new, comparable to the motor in the Tesla Roadster. And that a 150kW AC PEM can be done for under 1000$ retail. There is also a lot to be gained by looking into the laptop battery approach where you can get 180$/kWh prices and lower weight/longer range.
As long as we wait for a wonder to happen nothing will happen at all. They will sell their gas guzzler even if there is no more gas! What Michael does is showing that even a more or less normal man is able to build an electric car themselves. So we can show the professional car builders that they should be ashamed not to be able to build an electric car!
+Michael Neuweiler sure. I figure though that we can work on developing components without involving an expensive car. And actually I consider it obvious that we shouldn't convert cars until we have developed more cost effective and easy to use components. Right now they cost 10 times more than they need to and Jack is only making it worse by adding expensive parts that we don't need like the gevcu
It would have been easier, that's for sure. but better? I certainly wouldn't have learned as much and experienced a lot of fantastic "up's" and devastating "downs" (e.g. get to know a lot of nice people all over the world, talk to devices over CAN bus and analzye data, repairing brakes and a transmission, rip out an engine of a car). Also keep in mind that when I started this project, both the i3 not the Tesla S were not available.
Du untertreibst immer so schön! ICH hätte es mir nicht zugetraut, so eine Automatik wieder hinzukriegen.Und - wegen der Flüssigisolation, schon mal nachgedacht drüber?