Directed Car Remote Starters Explained Wire by Wire
Brief rundown of what each wire does on a basic remote start. 24921 Ready Remote Remote Start Directed Electronics by MotoCARR An ultra reliable basic ...
i have watched this several times, the remote starter kit i have doesn't
have this " parking light jumper thing" on the back like the the one you're
showing its the 24921B model it also has another box the has wires not
shown in this video. I'm very confused on what the other box is for , no
manual to this kit, and they say easy to install .. lol .. any further info
would be great, ty for this video
thanks julian. i have the bypass module, now i know what the other one is for lol. of course there are no directions with this ready remote bypass module , and i cant get any1 on the phone, u have been a great help with the information, is there an installation page for the ready remote bypass module?? thank u again have a great day Julian
+Jim A yes you will need a bypass like this //www.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/1 . I have one on the shelf I can flash and ship out to you if you need. //www.motocarr.com/collections/electronics-free-shipping/products/idatalink-ads-alca-data-bypass-module-for-remote-start
as far as the wiring i have the 2 red wires from the remote kit spliced into 1 ,and connected to just 1 12v constant wire, am i supposed to connect the 2nd 12v constant as well??
+Jim A ok just to cover the bases......you should have:-the thick red, pink, pink/white(if your vehicle has a 2nd ignition wire), orange, and purple connected at the key ignition wires.-You have the thin black ground wire connected to a solid metal ground. -You have the thin black/white neutral safety wire connected to either: the ground side of the emergency brake switch, or straight to ground(not recommended if your vehicle is a manual trans)-If your vehicle is ~1995 or newer, chances are you need an ignition immobilizer interface/bypass/interface.(an extra part not included with a remote start) If so, the blue/white wire would be connected to it. That wire would tell the bypass to "turn on", making your vehicle believe there is a key in the ignition, and the vehicle would start via the remote. If you let me know what vehicle you have I can tell you which bypass is needed(if any)
+MotoCARR MotoCARR-dot-com grrr i am so heated up this product ready remote is crap . i have all the wires hooked up right on the main harness ignition , power, and starter wires.. the brake safety wire is hooked up, the ground is grounded to a clean metal area. i have no red light on the module itself indicating to me there is no power ? , but i tested all connections ,and all are reading the voltage they should be reading . i am at a loss and about to rip this thing out of my truck. that blue defogger wire is not hooked up. i did read that there is a key sense wire (light blue) does the defogger wire hook into that to make the remote starter think there is a key in the ignition?? i i also grounded the neutral switch wire.. any help would be great ty :)
+Jim A Here is a link to the manual. If for some reason this does not work, shoot me an email to [email protected] and I can send it to you that way. On this unit there should be a little "trap door" that you can pop off on the right side of the unit. Underneath it is the jumper for your parking lights. Let me know if there are other questions! -Julian//www.directeddealers.com/manuals/og/designtech/24921_Owners-Installation_Guide_01-06.pdf
Great video describing the wires and where they go, you video is the best
out there! Keep it up. I have a question on the Viper 4105v(Directed like
yours) going into a '13 F150, my install sheet is not that great. On the
Remote Start Harness(5 pin) the blue/white says -200mA 2nd
status/defogger, I am thinking that I need to connect that to my vehicles
"Keysense" wire? Also second question is on the Main Harness(yours doesn't
as many as mine) 1&2 say they connect to the factory alarm arm & disarm. I
don't have an alarm per se, but it does have the passive horn blast. Do I
use them in them in my truck? My wiring diagram shows an alarm arm wire,
but the disarm says,"Disarm No Unlock Transponder and ignition"?
+Kathy Warner shoot me an email to [email protected] and I can send you the tech sheet from Directed if that's different than what you have. The blue/white wire is going to go to the bypass you are using, usually the same color regardless if you are using a Directed bypass or a Fortin/idatalink/Flashlogic. As far as your factory alarm disarm, on 2010 Ford vehicles, the factory alarm can only be disarmed by either unlocking the doors using the factory transmitter, or by inserting a valid key into the ignition and turning it to the ON position. I believe you will be ok with just using the bypass/transponder as this will mimic a key and the remote start will turn on the ignition and accessory, thus disarming the factory alarm. If that does not work I have a tech sheet I can send along that outlines how to disarm the factory alarm during remote start.
I have the 21930 keyless entry and cannot for the life of me find the
original manual. I have had it for three years and never installed it. I
need to know what the different wires on the alarm are.
Black: of course the neg
Red with inline fuse (Continuous positive) (ignition)
Black with purple line: ?
Blue: ?
Blue with white line: ?
Orange: ?
White: ?
So im stuck halfway through........
I am installing on a 91 Honda Accord Se
any suggestions
+Melissa Blair I don't have the manual for the 21930, but you can use one that is similar to help you install it, the Avital 3100L. It's going to have more features than the 21930 but the wire colors are going to be the same.Owner's Manual: //www.directeddealers.com/manuals/OG/Avital/G3100L%202008-12,%20web.pdfInstall Manual: //www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N3100L%202008-12,%20web.pdfBlack: Usually goes to chassis groundRed with inline fuse : This will go to to the 12V constant power wireBlack with purple line: Verify these colors, I don't recall seeing a black with purple wire on Directed products. Thick purple is usually goes to the starter wire, thin purple usually is a door trigger inputBlue: Multiplex trigger input, usually this can be used as an input for a glass break sensor, tilt sensor, magnetic switch, etc.Blue with white line: Do you mean white with a blue line? Usually blue with white is only on remote startsOrange: If it's a thick wire it usually goes to the accessory wire at the ignition. If it's a think orange wire that is usually ground when armed. You would use this if you want to ground an accessory when you hit the lock button. Like those flashing LED scannersWhite: Usually is the parking light wireFeature comparison which will show what features are available on your unit: //www.readyremote.com/pdf/Ready_Remote_Feature_Comparison.pdfClick on this link and it will take you to a vehicle selection guide where you can enter in your Honda Accord and view/print out your wire colors for your car: //www.readyremote.com/main.asp?action=select&yr=2246&product=Remote%20Start&make=Honda&model=Accord#
I just purchased and installed the ready remote 24921B, but I couldn't
figure out the parking lights, this model doesn't seem to have the fuse on
the back like the model you showed in this video. Do you have any advice?
Thank you very much for providing the link to the guide, I was able to get it fixed! I bought this unit brand new but it didn't come with any instructions... I guess when they say "Do It Yourself" they really mean it (joke).
+2000tmarin I'm not sure what the difference is between 24921 and 24921B but I can't imagine it being significant enough to where they would eliminate this jumper
+2000tmarin Take a look at page 6 of the manual at the following link: //www.readyremote.com/pdf/manuals/24921.pdfIt's just a small black piece of plastic sticking out the side, like the ones on this Avital //www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=23832&picture_id=425128
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Love your videos, watched every one
We've chatted before and I'll keep this short
From watching wiring and tuning videos I'm feeling more comfortable using
megasquirt
But I have some final questions
The truck I have is a 2.4 four cylinder
I got to purchasing every part to fully build it turbo and meth. I went all
out. This was a year ago. The labor to have everything installed is the
last on the list.
So far nothing has been touched other than gutting it empty.
In my haste back then I may or may not have damaged the stock wiring
harness. Trying to fix it myself was something I'd try but I'd rather have
a pro double check it.
I take a few pics of my progress and send it to my mechanic friend.
He comes down and says the wiring is twenty years old. He could fix the
wiring but it would take to much of my labor fund. He suggests I get an arc
8000 and just a fuel air controller for now like safc. He's a big aem
supporter and says anything more I should get the aem standalone.
He isn't as familiar with megasquirt as you or I but if he is familiar with
one how different could they all be? And by the way he has someone else do
tuning. He's just the builder so just because he supports it doesn't mean
he knows how to use it. Maybe he does, idk that yet. Watching your videos
makes me confident to try myself. Unless you say anything
If I had an actual question to ask, it would be-
Through your videos I found micro squirt
It's more in my budget and has more options than some fuel air controller.
Is micro a full standalone?
Is it universal?
Once I have the arc 8000 and a micro, there wouldn't be any need for
original harness right?
Thanks
So a microsquirt will REPLACE all the original wiring?The microsquirt is better than any air fuel controller?Could I get your personal email for future help?
microsquirt and ms1-2-3 are all stand alone systems, and lots of neon, dsm and other car guys have used them. i have never personally heard of an ARC 8000.