Lexus is300 cv joint Videos

+Jay Maechtlen Yeah if you used a car door window now-a-days, you'd create some sort of very odd complex curved surface that would NEVER seal!!! :)

Thanks, I'll check his channel out!

+farmboy30117 LOL!  I also learn something every day!The glass for surface plate isn't my idea. It came from Lyle Peterson aka Tubalcain. See his channel here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKLIIdKEpjAnn8E76KP7sQgIt works very well. I have used it many times before but haven't had a glass plate available at this location before now.  The trick is to use good, clean sandpaper and change the paper often.  It is best form to go in a figure-8 pattern, but the filter base hanging below the surface prevented that.I didn't use a filter relocation kit because I think that the less flexible hoses in the lube oil system the better. I have seen too many catastrophic engine failures because of blown cooler lines. Even on the turbocharger lube lines I used steel hydraulic tubing.The original car had the CV joint that close to the base and it lived 32 years without that part ever getting damaged.  I will look for another 3.0 filter base, though. That way if I have a mishap with the CV joint etc. I will have a spare.

+hoppes9 Sorry about the camera work. The problem here is, the engine is sitting on the floor and the parts of interest are 6 inches off the floor. It's not really feasible to setup a tripod in this case.I debated even making this video, but I know there are quite a few who were curious about the outcome of the HV oilpump modification.

+cw2lido The best way is to have a shop with a torque converter flushing machine do it. They exchange the old oil and inject new oil through the cooler circuit. The torque converter will never drain, and running the engine without oil in the transmission; even for a moment; is a Very Bad Idea for the pump and other parts.Some converters have a drain plug in them. I have drilled holes and threaded them for plugs before. You have to be very careful, because there is nearly 1000 PSI at the outer rim of the converter when the engine is at maximum revs. I drilled a 1/4-28 hole and used a 1/4-28 bolt for the plug. It was retained with Loctite. That was a 700R4 transmission, where the lower third of the converter is fully exposed under the car. The 4-speed FWD units may not have access to drill or tap a hole.

+davida1hiwaaynet what's the best way to get all the fluid out? I have a new pan that has a drain plug, a shift kit, an external cooler, and a performance tune to help with the shifts. that will be put on when my brother gets to it. I told him drop the pan, take out the fuel pump relay and turn the motor over so all the fluid comes out, but seriously there has to be a better way to do it.

+cw2lido Yeah, that 4T65E / 440T4 hybrid was my Park Avenue.  It's still running great. I'm happy to have it back on the road!The oil type is important on the 4T65E transmission, especially with a stock ECU that is calculating the time required to change gears. It will try to adjust the pressure to maintain the shift timing, and if the oil has the wrong friction modifier additives, it can really screw with the computer.Very often, the factory calibrations are way too soft on the shifting. I have seen many where there was slipping and poor performance, that was corrected with a re-tune. There could be a factory update re-tune (from dealer) or you could take it to a performance shop and have it professionally tuned with increased shift firmness. This will definitely increase the life of the transmission.

+davida1hiwaaynet when I rebuild my 97 Camaro RS I picked up a used 3800 V6 motor and decided to paint it. Wasted my time since you couldn't see the block once the motor was stabbed in the car but it was fun and I used a GM blue/green engine paint. I used some black crackle paint on the valve covers. Looked great on the engine stand! I watched the transmission video you had on your Park Avenue (I think that's what it was). My brother should be changing out the fluid on my 06 Grand Prix GXP soon since I used the wrong type and threw in some Lucas transmission fluid in a relatively new to the car tranny. The shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 feel lazy and some slippage is noticed when transmission is up to temp.

+cw2lido Thanks!  I tried to match the original blue from the 79 Buick Turbo engine; however the closest I could find was what you see. It's a little less green than the original color, but I like it!The old Buick V6 has the oilpump in that position, since it is driven by the distributor shaft, and has to be in line with the distributor shaft; and that shaft has to be in position to mesh with the camshaft gear.They made the filter base in with the pump lower cover and all the relief valves are also in this casting. It would be a huge amount of work to modify it. The newer engines have a gerotor type pump that is around the crankshaft hub. The filter base is mounted (basically) where the body of the pump is on the old engine. This moves the filter closer to the engine, in a vertical position, so that it has plenty of room.

+Jay Maechtlen Hi Jay.  Yes the original 1984 spec 3.8 was flat-tappet. The 1986 spec 3.8 engine which I used for this build is in fact a factory roller-cam engine. They use a zinc additive (ZDDP) to help with extreme pressure sliding friction in the flat-tappet engines. The latest and newest diesels have exhaust emissions aftertreatment on them which will be fouled by zinc additives. The new engines are also almost all roller-cam designs.I believe that the white-bottle RotellaT still has zinc in it; however the grey bottle RotellaT5 and other "low emissions" oils do not have it.

+davida1hiwaaynet Another reason - the '84 engine is flat-tappet, isn't it?The diesel oils have additives for that, while modern roller-tappet engines don't need that particular additive.

+rusco321 Hi, good question!  It's got nothing to do with it being a gas engine. I have had great success with Rotella oil.  I run their 15W40 oil in the Buick Turbo V6 engines.The modern 15W40 is "just right" for our climate (Alabama) and the heavy loading the bearings see due to the torque capability of the turbocharged engine. The 15W40 grade oil flows more slowly than a 10W30 or other lighter oils. As the piston is pushing down on the connecting rod, the oil will be "squeezed out" more slowly from between the crank journal and the bearing. It will take more force (torque / boost) to force metal-to-metal contact between the two parts. This is important because the oil port in the crank is depositing a film of oil only once per rotation of the bearing. That film is deposited and has to remain for a whole rotation, under extreme force, until the oil port comes around again.Also, the Rotella oil is designed to reduce coking (carbon buildup) in the turbocharger bearing housing, since it was designed for turbocharged heavy-duty engines.I have been running my 84 Century for more than 100,000 miles on it. It has 3.8 intercooled turbo V6, 450 or so HP, and is driven daily. The engine still sounds just like it did when I first started it up. Bottom line is, there are plenty of good oils out there. This one is the one I have used and had good success with so I plan to stick with it! Hope this answered your question!