i would do same but plastic weld mesh screen, then felexiable filler prime
seal mid coat basecoat only the area needed/blend in then clearcoat whole
bumper what type plastic it ? if melts with soldering gun you wont need
nothing but mesh screen and shave off some plastic from inside bumper for
welding rod or if have another bumper around with same type plastic cut in
strips use that thats if melts otherwise do as other mentioned unless you
have airless plastic welder kit with all diffrent rods so weld all most
plastics ? heres what we use model 6
//www.urethanesupply.com/Airless-Welders-1/
+GBODY .CUTLASS Yeah, that works too. I have heard good things about the Fusor though, so I am going to give that a try since I already have it. Thanks!
I would finish the filler work and surrounding paint in 320 grit to remove
any deep scratches. I have not used any waterborne but I would think that
320 would be enough to prime over. As for sealing (spot) of bodywork after
priming, I would probably skip that so that you can keep the repair small.
Blend the paint out (hide the bodywork and spray out from it a little
lighter as you go). I don't usually try to "blend" or spot repair
tri-coats because I don't have much experience with them. I think Matt has
you covered on this one. Just clear the entire thing and all will be
marvelous :)
+Velvethamma Thanks Shawn. I like that plan. I was a little worried about bringing in a non-PPG sealer anyway. Mixing solvent and waterborne is scary enough, but between two different vendors...I appreciate your help. I hope I can pull it off!