C5 corvette quarter panel removal Videos

+avalanche For a collision repair the correct method is to try and match the orange peel to what the rest of the car is so nothing looks out of place. On a restoration its up to the owner whether they want a factory style finish with some orange peel or a show finish that has been sanded smooth.

+Shut Yer Face Garage thanks alot man u saved my day

+Tomer Tzur a new Mercedes should have ceramic clear coat which is very strong. Try some lacquer thinner or acetone in an inconspicuous spot to see. I take lacquer thinner to factory paint on kias and Hyundai's all the time. Msybe try rubbing alcohol?

+Shut Yer Face Garage so anything that is alcholic can help?aceton is too strongis there something weaker?so i wont damage the surrounding paint?

You can try lightly wiping over them with a something like rubbing alcohol or acetone. But it works best if you do it before it's dried.

+Ryan Manzella thanks, I try to get the run completely flat before I do any sanding, But I do have a piece of aluminum square stock that I use for a block, because you are completely right abut the dureblocks.

+OHIOFIGHTFAN lol Defiantly have to know how to use it to not screw it up. Most painters I know use the razor blade method. Generally I prefer not to get them in the first place. But for some reason when i'm doing something at home like this I get in a hurry and like to create problems lol.

Artesian turquoise. A factory color.

iI might post a pic of the motorbike I painted abt 8 years ago in candy oriental blue over silver base with HOK, and premium clear with royal blue HOK flake..all total around 9 coats.. but its candy.  would you like to see it?

that urethane gets sticky enough to support the next coat, so you may want to try waiting a little longer. try to shoot 2 coats and leave it alone.. let it dry.. u might be surprized how much it all flattens out after a few days. then only cut and reshoot the panel with the runs on them, if any.  man that shit is way too toxic to be farting around with . dont let that sweet smell fool ya.. its almost addictive. haim sorry if I offended you sir.

No excuses, yes I got a run because I overlapped to much on the fender and door edges, I hear what you are saying. And if I was going for a factory appearance or worse then that would be fine. This is 2015 and with urethane clear you put every coat on like it's your last and that's how you want it to look.

and really fot the classic and antique cars, acrylic enamel or laquer would match up better anyway.. the old iron wasnt shiny as a dime in a goats ass.. if you recall. it had some gloss bu]t not mirror.

Ive always painted outside, acrylic enamel dries FAST!!!! Also if u get a little run or spider, you can wet sand and blend 3 hours later. you can clear it if you like, but no need.  wet look hardener is all u need to add.try it man, .u can keep alot more paper in your pocket and still give a quality paintjob. if they want super glossy you can shoot clear enamel over it or urethane if you wait till the enamel flashes over but not dry.

dont make excuses brother ,, you know your not supposed to build up that crappy clear that thick.. one tack coat, one light coat, one medium coat. you shouldnt even have to cut and buff it. if you give the clear time to lay out, in the sun or heat lamps, it will shrink and gloss up good.also theres fast activators that will help the base and clear flash fast.to be honest, you should just be shooting 65.00 a gallon enamel with a little hardener on  those rust buckets  you guys are doing 7.000 paint jobs. im not knocking your final outcome, just how you get there.

Have you ever sprayed in a poorly lit garage with no airflow, using a clear you have never used before while its to cold for the paint to flash off normally? Oh, you haven't ever painted a car before? ok.