Mini 30 shooting steel cased ammo Videos

+Avid Water fowler The video is not meant to have technical details, it's purely my opinion on steel case ammo. Which hasn't changed.

+Andrewlikesguns Your welcome, I will always try my best to help

You can apply the stuff used in truck bedliners to protect the deflector. I've seen guys do this on their hk91/93 TP prevent wear from hoe forcefully the cases are ejected. Once wear is detected on the deflector. The coating can be reapplied. Last I checked you can pick a small tin of it up at Lowe's & Home Depot.

+Avid Water fowler yes, the poly coats have no issues there.

This coating melting is myth. Just an FYI. I've been to a machine gun shoot where the m16 was smoking hot. No issues what so ever. Your looking at thousands of rounds a day in continuous fire. I think it may have been an issue with the lacquer cases in the earlier days though...

+Spanky's Basement No problem. I've been formulating my own lubes, a dry lubricant, an oil and a grease.

very interesting thanks for that.

+Spanky's Basement​​ Yep same stuff I have. In a pinch you can also use sulphur. Germans figured this out in WW2 for use in the desert & cold winters of RussiaAnother method for application is to mix it with alcohol . Use in a needle oiler. Roughly 1/4 to 1/2 tsp (teaspoon) to the rest of the bottle filled with alcohol. Shake well before applying to each part. Blow or allow to dry. And it will stick to the applied part.

So some of this then?//www.midwayusa.com/product/183655/lyman-super-moly-superfine-grade-moly-powder-6-oz

+Spanky's Basement​ But fine grit has been known to stick. Just ask the Iranian military. They used the G3/91 until recently

Hmm... Ill check that out. Just so you dont think Im too crazy, I would apply this grease then wipe it off so it was just slick not thick lol. Those polished surfaces dont hold onto much. I havent had any issues with this yet having ~700 rounds shot during one trip.

+Spanky's Basement​​ Grease should not be used on the rollers or allowed on the locking contact points. Ever!! Any grit from dirt or sand will cause issues resulting in eventual stoppages. Instead pick up a can of molybdenum aka moly powder. Take a makeup brush and apply a liberal amount to the rollers and locking points. Hand cycle a few times to ensure full coverage. This will give a highly lubricious dry lubricant coating to those critical points. I stopped using wet type lubes in my RDB's. Cleaning got considerably easier. Yes there is more sooting. But it comes out extremely fast. Wipes out with a rag. For detailed cleanings I use carb cleaner and a compressor.

I didnt think about that but yes NiB would be awesome for these things. That would help negate how dirty they get, especially with this Barnaul ammo. I run mine mostly dry because of that. I put a little grease on rollers and the LP. The rest just has a residue of the Eds Red I mix up. Damn park coating wants to hold all that carbon. I did have a CAI CETME before I bought this PTR. It had zero bolt gap due to the barrel being pressed in to far. I couldve fixed it but this PTR is just so much smoother and G3 mags didnt agree with CETMEs without some work. I have been thinking on getting an MP5 for a truck gun, just waiting on funds, those Zeniths do look good.

+Spanky's Basement​​​​​ Hate to break it to you. But the RDB's have already made use of nitriding. Remember nitriding as a process has been around since the 50's. The barrels have been nitrided since nearly the beginning. We and by that I mean Americans. We're the only ones who kept pushing for chrome lined barrels. Which is completely unnecessary in a standard service/patrol rifles except in full auto applications. Where the primary use is full auto. But the process was dropped on the bolt and carrier due to the large size and lack of excessive wear to said parts. Which in turn reduced cost in manufacture for those countries that continued to keep them in service (Turkey & Iran to name just 2) Honestly the big issue in these types is when it comes to poor tolerances. When made correctly they rarely have issues. But many poorly made rebuilds have given rise to the perception that they are problem prone. Like the first couple batches of rebuilt 91's & 93's from Century. Where they ground the bolt to force the correct bolt gap. LMFAO. But nickle boron would be a welcome addition to several parts. IMHO

Your right, I'd like to see more rollers out there. Actually I'd like to see a modern redesigned model. I personally think that with some modern techniques like Mennonite coated chamber and bolts, modern machining and metallurgy,  would make these things more reliable than any other.   

+Spanky's Basement​​​ Yes I'm aware. But you seem to forget this is now that they are cheaper. Just a few years ago this wasn't the case. Advancements have made it cheaper. Which is why you see a resurgence in RDB rifles. Remember you asked why that design was not included in more rifles. I just gave you the why. But I digress. Expect to see more companies that offer these types. Companies like Zenith are popping up. And personally I'm glad. RDB's are my favorite. Some ppl are AR fans others AK. Me it's the Hk RDB.

A replacement barrel for my PTR really isnt bad, last I checked under $200 on Hkparts. But to have one made on off would be more but RCM makes a really nice barrel in the $250 range and might do caliber conversions. The thing with that is, its only expensive to make a single barrel. It gets cheaper to make them in mass due to you being able to spread that initial setup cost across multiple pieces.

+Spanky's Basement​​​​ Easy cost. This is one of the main reasons why RDB guns like the CETME/91/93 were passed over for cheaper and easier to build gas guns. Like the AR. Ever looked into having a barrel chamber fluted? I have. Back when I was looking to do my 4th Hk (93/33) build in 5.45 It's labor intensive. Not something you can just cold hammer forge on a mandrel. Or button cut. Takes a skilled machinist and time. It's no easy task. Hence why RDB barrels aren't cheap!! But the advantage of it is nice. I've never had a stuck case in a fluted chamber even with case head separation. BTW I've seen the article & video. It's been around for a while

+MatteoSixSeventyFour Maybe I am, the real question here is why isnt this design used more in modern firearms. Btw someone here posted the link to Luckygunner vid where they did test on this.

+Spanky's Basement I think you're understating the advantage of a fluted chamber

+Daniel M This all depends on how much you shoot and how you shoot. I dont own an AR anymore but I shoot Wolf packaged Barnaul in my PTR and have had no issues. Now the only "issues" im aware of with this ammo is its a Bi-metal bullet. This means that if your barrel has a 20k rd life then you might only get 18k rds out before its done. Price of ammo vs barrel in that quantity im fine with the ammo. Another issue is the melting of poly coats, you'd have to get your chamber dangerously hot for this to happen. Ive held a cutting torch to one and it takes a lot of heat to melt one. Most issues that are blamed on this is the fact that this type of ammo runs dirtier that lets say Federal. This may cause rounds to stick from fouling, run a chamber brush through from time to time and its fine. I dont have have this problem with my PTR due to its design its pretty much self cleaning in that regard, only issue ive heard with a DRB type weapon is going from steel to brass without hitting the chamber with a brush. Another issue ive heard about is its hard on your extractor, well if it is, its not noticable plus an extractor every 5k+ rds wont kill the bank when it comes to what you save shooting steel cased. This is more an issue for me Id say since 7.62x51/.308 is considerably more than 5.56/.223. Thats all I can think of, and this isnt all my opinion either there are some vids showing the difference between these.

+HighDesertTactical Lacquer & poly coated cases can leave trace amounts of their coating as residue on the chamber walls. This can result in the issues many speak of. The simple fix is to load 1 brass cased round per magazine. As the brass is fired the brass material is hotter and more pliable from the propellant gas. Which forms a tight seal to the chamber walls. This allows the residue that is beginning to build up on the chamber walls to be removed by the brass case. I shoot every time of steel case ammo (cheap lacquer coated to poly coated wolf) in my ARs. I include 1 brass case cartridge in each magazine. And have yet to have this problem.

+HighDesertTactical Sweet! Thats a great price for brass. I'm fine with the zinc.

+Daniel M I can get brass stuff for roughly .33 cents a round so it's worth the extra cheddar to me. Good info on the steel stuff.