+Cameron Steiner it's a disposible tank. I just bought one for my husband but we also purchased different tank that is wickless and you only have to buy replacement heating elements for about $2.99. It's the mini protank 2 from kanger tech. Hope this helps!
how long does it take ot charge? (turn green ) because I've charged it for
about 5 hours and it's supposed to turn green to indicate that it's fully
charged but it hasn't...
I unplugged it after 5 hrs and i used it for 2 hours of continuous
vaping....
do you know wht the prblem is???
+showmethelight01 You probably have a defective battery. It should charge after 2-3 hours
VaporChase Tutorial - How to Clean an eGo-C Atomizer
A quick tutorial on how to clean eGo-C atomizer heads. Note that if you want to do the dry burn and you only have an eRoll, you're going to need either an ...
Ah yes, sorry, forgot about the wick inside the spike. You can dry burn
that with a lighter if you want. It's silica fiber, so it may scorch a bit
but it won't burn. Hold the spike plate with some tweezers and char the
trailing end of the wick until the gunk turns to ash. You can remove the
wick too if you're careful. Use a pair of tweezers to gently remove it,
give it a dry burn as above, then gently re-insert it until the end of the
wick up the spike is just visible at the other end.
Vinegar is certainly a possibility, though you'll want to seriously rinse
the hell out of the wick and coil so you don't get a vinegar taste in your
juice (that flavour sticks around). I don't recommend baking soda; it can
get trapped in the wick and may not get completely burned off in the
dry-burn phase. I do have some Kanger and Vision clearos -- I'm actually a
big fan of the T2. Not so much the T3 (rev. 2). I also have a T4 and T5 on
the way, plus the new Vision Nano to try.
Hey Eric, thanks for posting this as I just got an eroll last week. I used
your method and it worked great! The only difference is that I filled a
small bowl with alcohol and swished the parts in it (didn't have a syringe
on hand), then I held each part with a plier under hot tap water, dried the
parts, put it all back together and the vapor is vastly improved, even
though I had no way to dry burn the coil (no ecab or torch). So, at least,
I can double the life of these heads.
Indeed, glad it worked out for you! That method should work just fine so
long as you don't let the coils get too gunked up. The baked-on gunk is
what's so hard to get off, and why dry-burning tends to be necessary;
alcohol is fine for leeching out the loose liquid, but it won't help with
the caking. You could probably dry burn after a fashion by blowing into the
air hole on the side. It'll make you look like you're playing the world's
smallest flute, but it would work. :D
- I assambled the complete atti head in an eGo-C body & battery - Dry
burned it in about 5 second pulses, untill no more smoke came out, no more
"hissing" was heard, and i could see the coil glow. - removed the atti &
placed it in very hot water, stirred it for a few minutes - placed the atti
head in a stream of cold water - blew some air thru the atti and primed it
with some ejuice. - put in back on my eRoll Good vapor, and no funny taste
or smell! seems to work great!
Yeah, there's some debate as to whether or not aligning the spike plate
with the coil helps. I did try it a year ago with the eGo-C but I can't say
I noticed any significant difference. However my theory is that it isn't
going to matter. The coil isn't long enough to stick out over the edges of
the spike plate if you orient it perpendicular to the coil, so either way
the vapor is hitting the plate before traveling through to you, so I can't
see an advantage either way.
After a week of heavy use of my new eRoll (wich BTW i absolutely LOVE), im
back at using eGo-C atomizer heads. Today i decided to clean it, and i had
no trouble cleaning the coil (as per your tutorial), but for the life of me
i simply cannot clean the damn wick!. its black and full of gunk. Back when
i used an eGo-C, i tried vinager, soaking in alcohol, vodka, boiling them,
baking soda, and nothing worked. Do you have advice on how to clean a
gunked-up wick? thanks!
As long as it didn't pull out a great tuft of the wick, it can be carefully
re-inserted without much issue, so you can still use it. and if worse comes
to worst, you can get 1-2mm glass fiber wick material, cut it down to about
1/2 to 2/3" and insert it. If you have some SS mesh lying around it might
be helpful to wrap the end that goes up the tube in a thin strip of it to
help it stay in place, or you can use tinfoil, but it's less sturdy and may
be awkward to do.
For a hospital stay of a couple of months or so, wouldn't it be much easier
to bring a load of replacement heads, than bringing all you need to do
atomizer head cleanings? Cleaning for reuse at home makes a lot of sense,
including for the environment, but while in hospital? Doesn't make any
sense to me to bring pliers, alcohol, syringe, rinsing bowls etc. instead
of bringing a couple of packs of replacement atomizer heads... But thanks
for a great tutorial! :)
Yeah, you shouldn't dry burn before you've cleaned. Dry-burning will end up
burning the juice and caking it on the coil. The damage done with a
3-second pulse would depend on the voltage it was done at for the most
part, but your best course of action at this point is to soak in a little
isopropyl alcohol (or vodka or a pure grain spirit such as Everclear) for
an hour or so, then go through the normal cleaning process with a proper
dry burn at the end.
That's some pretty good life out of those. :) For what it's worth I've
tried a SS mesh wick in T/C type systems (eGo-T, eGo-C) and it never worked
well. The problem is that silica wick drapes over the coil and feeds the
wick that runs through the coil pretty well. SS mesh doesn't which creates
a feeding problem. I've tried cutting slots in the bottom of the wick and
making "legs" to straddle the coil but that didn't work well either.
thanks for your reply! i once tried burning the wick to clean it (back when
i used the eGo-C), but i used the stove, and it charred most of the wick! i
guess it was a bit too much heat! LOL ill give it a shot using a lighter
like you sugest. ¿howbout dryburning the atti without removing the spike
plate? im thinking the heat from the coil would burn that gunk out of the
wick. ¿you think that might work?
Glad you liked it! I imagine this could be used for the Eternity in tank
mode, too, as far as I know they use the same spike plate and wick system
so I can't see why it wouldn't work. (For the sake of interest this method
can be used on the old eGo-T and 510-T atties as well, but it's a lot more
fiddly 'cos you have to remove the spike plate from down inside the atty
tube, which is much more awkward.)
Well, it depends on how much you use it and what sort of liquids you use in
it. Generally speaking you should be able to get at least a couple of
months use out of it if you clean it regularly (about once a week or so).
But that can vary with thicker liquids or more frequent vaping. You'll know
if it needs cleaning if you start getting a consistently off, possibly
burnt taste from it.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! It is indeed possible to activate the battery
by blowing down the charging end. Two things though: Do it in front of a
mirror so you can see the coil glow, and only blow in 5 second bursts with
30 second rests between, until you can clearly see the loops of the coil,
and 2) Wipe the charging end off before putting it on to charge. :)
You could do it without removing the spike plate, the main reason to remove
the spike plate is so you can see when the coil starts to glow. But you can
still give it a shot. If you do it in a darkened room you should still be
able to see the coil glow. When you get to that point you'll still want to
remove the spike plate to brush and/or blow out the ash.
I've always pried the spike plate off with a small flathead driver, just
pry up one side, switch to the other and go back and forth. I stopped
trying to pry it off with pliers when I crushed the spike, tho once it's
been yanked out a few times it comes loose easier. As for burning the wick,
I just hit it with a mini-torch until everything is burnt away
I forgot to ask... when you put the spike plate back on the other (coil)
part of the atti, do you think the orientation of the spike plate matters?
ibe seen quite a bit of controversy over this on the ECF, some say it
should be aligned paralel (others say perpendicular) to the ceramic, others
say it doesnt matter. what do you think?
nice tutorial. i have been cleaning these attys using a similar way for 5
months with at least 20 cleaning cycles on 4 attys. i think lining the
spike cut outs with the coil is better than the stock way (other way round)
. btw i have never heard of anyone breaking these attys so using a ss wick
would make them last ages.
I dry burned the coils, but not the wicks. I removed the spike plates (with
the wicks on them), and then i dry burned the coils (the bottom part with
the ceramic plate and coil). ¿do you mean should i do some dry burning with
the spike plate (and wicks) in place (in other words without disasembling
the atomizer)? thanks
i was thinking it might be easyer or more practicial to use vinager an
bakeing soda or warm water an soda to clean rince them in a cup then rince
under warm tap water i would pick up some vision or kanger clearos tho easy
use an to fill an they last a long time without cleaning good luck an
vapeaway cheers
How to clean and dry burn a clearomizer
This video shows you how to clean and dry burn a clearomizer. For 15% off smokeless image products, use coupon code YOURVOLT00. Smokeless Image did ...
The wicks that are in these don't burn perse, atleast not for a while, they just get all the gunk and stuff that's around the coils and it on them that turns them black and give them that bad taste
How to clean CE4 and CE4S - VapeIndulgence.com
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