Sweet job man! I wanna ask, how much did it cost all together to make it
all wheel drive and to twin turbo the engine, vr-4 status? Cuz I have a
chance to buy this dudes '97 VR-4 but the interior is shot to hell, and he
is asking $8500. Or I can pick up this dudes '97 SL, it has more miles but
it is in WAY nicer condition. So Im thinking of going with that, then with
what I Would have spent on the VR-4 I can just use to make the SL all wheel
drive and twin turbo it. THanks!!
Hm 18 spline transfer FIRST GEN. Nice mod tho. It took me a while to find a
25 spline 6 speed FOUND ONE 800$. You did pretty well aroung 5k+. Hope you
checked the oil prime valve. Had my first gen rebiult. they clogged it Blew
the turbines. Now I do my own rebiulds. On the ecu watch out for the G-.
That blows youl loose ignition in some cylinders but not all.
I like what you did. I need to post a video of my ported & polished heads
after seeing your ported heads. Show you what they look like polished. Nice
build!
@matt3161 It's a joke!!! Haven't you ever watched the Red Green Show? He's
the master of the duct tape and bailing wire method of repairing or making
almost anything.
@MexhomieXlll Depends on how you look at it. If you have the time, money
and want to save on the insurance then yeah. But you'll also have to
realize when you go from 222hp to 320 (if left in stock for...which I doubt
you will cause you probably wouldn't do the swap if that's the case) and
with the same in torque, your tires aren't gonna last that long in FWD
form. In reality you'd be better off buying a VR-4 or RT/TT. You can find
them for about $9K and the insurance is only $60/6 month more.
@xxvibxx I tested mine at 6.8 when it was stock (manual) although I read in
motortrend that a 92 SL auto was something like 7.8? Don't know how just an
auto could slow it down that bad...The stealth (base model) and the 97+
base was around the 9 second area...Not much of a sports car with it
weighing in at that much and with only 163hp, dunno why they even put the
SOHC motor in.
@Splinterblood no, this car i swapped in a 8:1 TT engine from a 98 vr4.
click more info and see the link. but even if it was an n/a 10:1
compression, there are plenty of people on 3si who have proven that you can
run 10 lb of boost reliably, it's no problem with a proper tune. you just
need to be very cautious of detonation when boosting a 10:1 compression
engine.
did all1995 3000gts come with those rims as stock? because i have a 1995
3gt sl and i had the same rims on mine when i got it but they were peeling
and were warped so the car had a shake to it with the rims so i replaced
them with aftermarket rims anyway nice job on converting your car looks
legit
I have to admit thats a hell of a proyect... just outa curiosity, ive
always wanted to convert FWD to RWD but eveyone always tells me not to
waste my money and that it would ride like it should anymore because of the
conversion... how much would it be around to do this kinda work?
well the vr4 is only cool bc its awd, otherwise its too heavy to be very
fast, all that extra tractio is where its speed comes from. drifting in it
ould be hard bc of how heavy it is, it would slide all around and spin out
too much, the over steer would be ridiculous too
nice job guys. but my question is wouldn't be a lot cheaper to go stock
engine with racing piston , racing cams , a racing headers,injectors,
modify computer and kept it stock sl model . you still get more 350hpw .
and you can do it with $3,000. just saying .
Nice swap. I'm thinking about putting the vr4 conversion in mine. The valve
seals have about had it and the automatic.......should have never came in
the 3000gt lineup. My question is what kind of work can I expect of this
swap? Any snags u ran into?
@Splinterblood you will also be able to make more power when boosting with
lower compression, because you can rise the boost higher, and not start to
knock.. you don't hit the "knock wall" like you do with a boosted high
compression engine.
dude i have a dodge stealth R/T non turbo i have in great condition just 2
mods made to it but i want to make it a mitsu 3kgt i want all the front end
and the rear too u tink u kan hook me up.... watch my videos its there...
thanks
Wear did you get your rear body parts for the cross member the ones thoughs
post bolt onto did u cut them off a vr4? If u don't minde me asking lol
thank you haha that's the only thing I need and am haveing a hard time
finding it
Something is wrong with the link. Also I live in Texas and doubt I can go
to Florida for this. This is what I want to do too. So you charged $6k? Not
bad. I guess I just need to pull parts off a VR4? If not, what did you use?
I have the 1992 Base model non turbo Dodge Stealth, dad had the 1991 R/T
Dodge Stealth. If I had the money I would covert it to a TT AWD in a heart
beat, but still thinking about buying a TT AWD and stripping my base for
parts
was wondering if you had a wiring diagram on how you changed the sl harness
to run with the 1st gen ecu. I got a 1995 sl harness and wanted to put it
into my 1992 vr4 because the stock harness has melted and doesn't work.
@andez10 just pull all the fwd components, but the cars then just an
extremely heavy rwd car. i have one and i was gunna do that but its
useless. if you ever get the chance to launch a 3000gt vr4, do it. theyre
ridiculous
I have a 95 r/t just like urs... color and interior. I wanna upgrade it to
a twin turbo but keep it fwd and i cant find any kits to upgrade it. Do u
know of any companys to find a twin turbo kit?
@MexhomieXlll Best bet will to find a wrecked VR-4/RT-TT and then do the
swap...Waaaaayyyyy to many various parts will be needed not to have one
(not to mention knowing where everything goes)
so were you able to get all wheel steer? Or did you leave that out. How
much fab work was involved? Are you running the stock block, or did you
drop a turbo block in? Nice car man. Good job.
Very cool! Kudos to all the work you've put into her. Sure, you could have
just bought a VR-4, but then you wouldn't have a 'base' 3000GT that could
take out Corvettes and Mustang GT's.
So basicly are you useing a Non turbo engine with 2 Turbos on it? Or did
you swap the N/A to the TT engine? Heard that the SL's have a High
Compression rate that may kill the engine
1994 Subaru SVX Turbo FWD to AWD 5spd (C.M.S)
here are still pix of a 1994 subaru FWD automatic SVX being converted to 5spd AWD with a legacy transmission and a new 3in exhaust.
hello like you video..... i have a 92 svx its been sitting for ten years
but still in good condition would like to start working on it, but i have
minor problem with it.. when it sits for a bit i have to unplug the larger
plug on the computer and create an intermitting connection to get it
started once its started everything goes back to normal do you know of any
computer bypass or trick for these kind of computer issues or after market
computer parts it...
@badazzbrentIII The 5 speed feels very good mated up to the eg33 the car is
so much fun to drive and a torque monster @ 228 ft lb, but of course mine
is boosted so its higher.I am currently using the manual trans and rear
diff from the legacy wagon that i pulled from a donor. as far as modifying
everything fit like a glove the only thing to modify was the tranny cross
member and rear hubs to mate the rear axles.
Hey man, I recently purchased a 94' SVX LSi AWD with 194,xxx miles. Its the
EG33 and its spotless, looks and runs like a brand new motor....I am
wanting to swap the old tranny for a 5 speed tranny. Please send me info
what all goes into doing the work. Greatly appreciated and love how yours
looks.
umm am i the only one concerned about the structural integrity of the home
made dif mounts i mean come on it looks like a small child welded those. no
bad feelings i love these vids and the svx but it just looks uuhh not
exactly well thought out in its design.
@dollaholla66 Yeah, I found that out yesterday when I was looking online.
Apparently they were all AWD in 92-93, and in 96-the end of production.
Also, how does the 5 spd transmission feel, and how much did you have to
modify the center console, and firewall?
I just bought a 1992 subaru wrx off someone who converted it to a 5 speed.
It has a 1995 subaru legacy transmission with a JDM gear set in it. The
Transmission mount busted on it and I would like to know what transmission
mount should I use.
Got a SVX of my own recently, I have been looking to do a 5sp/6sp swap
(hate automatics :P) which transmission do you suggest. I have read that
and MT5 will bolt up to any EJ style engine. Just need confirmation or best
suggestion
hey man sad to hear about the crash..... question? how did the exhaust
sound? ive been wanting to put the same style exhaust on my 92 svx. the
exhaust i have now sounds like a ricer (its tanggy). let me know man!
@MacCollector the engine responds better to a manual trans.....over the
weakass factory auto trans, and besides automatics are for lazy
people..........70-80's music no thanks im good......im not 40yrs old
Looks like a lot of work and knowledge. But why change to a manual. I would
much rather keep my auto transmission and just change to AWD. PS Crappy
music. Try something from the 70-80's ;-)
@badazzbrentIII it took about 2 weeks to perform........and yes its totally
worth the swap.......the EG33 response goes way up with a manual trans. it
cost about $350 bucks for the swap.
@elmer3383 nah it was factory hood painted black to match the rest of the
car........and yea the white one is done.......i have to get a vid of it
soon
good vid, awesome cars (svx & celica), and sweet song. check out immortal
tech and krs1 too :)
E50f st165 awd to fwd conversion st165
Colt Driveshaft Install Part 2/3
It cost me $55 to have my driveshaft shortened. They even painted it at that price. After rebuilding the Colt's driveshaft I clear up the process and complete its ...
I think the rear of the x-fer case will go down decreasing the angle but I
dont think it would be a problem because it wont stay like that for more
than a few seconds and looks like u have enough side to side angle to
almost make it a moot point. Almost to bad u cant use a gm ball and socket
u joint but its not worth having new shafts made just to have a
unserviceable part. If u are uncomfortable with the x-fer case movement use
a stiffer rear mount or add a solid rod end mount on the motor
I can't tell you how grateful I am to have your approval. I've never done
an AWD swap before, and after exhausting all my resources looking for angle
references and measuring other cars... this is what I came up with. Loaded
up, I don't expect the rear to give very much. The x-fer case will, though.
I don't know how launching it will affect it yet. My gut says the rear will
"look up" and increase that angle under acceleration, maybe a degree or
two? I hope so, because that .7° bothers me.
I noticed you're running original lines (ie. the 5 running to the rear of
the car along the frame rail on the right side) 2 are fuel, 2 are brake
line, 1 is evap. I just replaced mine on the 94 model. The line over the
fuel tank was rusted to hell and broke off in my hands (yikes!). You may
want to watch out for that because if you have any intention of drag racing
this car you'll want those brakes to work. Just FYI. Actually I just
noticed there's only 3, i'd assume at least 2 are brakes.
I don't want to mislead anyone on this topic. I have no formal training of
any kind regarding automobiles. Everything I know is from doing. Of course,
tearing the u-joints out of a '76 Blazer with a 10" lift kit in the woods
in the ice & snow while looking for a Christmas tree... and having to
replace it in the dark in order to make it home with a bunch of rednecks is
great learning experience for anyone. You tend not to forget what you
learned about stressing u-joints in those situations.
If you know the vibration isn't caused by a failing component that it's
bolted to, it could be as simple as a balancing problem. Normally there are
weights spot-welded to the shafts to balance them. If one gets knocked off,
you can substitute 2.5" worm-gear clamps in its place. The worm-gear
mechanism is heavier than the rest of the clamp. Getting them positioned is
trial-and-error, but it works. If the shaft is bent, or a part is in bad
help, this won't help. This is just for balancing.
it's a Millermatic 175. The 135 and 175 are both 110v welders. Since my
garage is detached, it has its own small 8-breaker panel. There are 2 10 &
20A 110v breakers for outlets and lights. There are 2 double-width breakers
servicing the window unit AC and the air compressor. I wired the 220v
circuit for the compressor myself. The whole garage is on an ancient 55A
breaker jumped off from the main panel on the house with three 6 AWG wires
pulled through conduit 18" underground. Maxed out.
I'm too humble to teach that topic. Humility isn't a weakness, it keeps
your ears and mind open. I really am rookie-grade. My welding experience is
all mostly right here in the Colt project. I've done a few other things,
but I'd prefer you guys listen to veterans. Not that I want you to stop
watching my vids 24/7 like I EXPECT EACH AND EVERY ONE OF YOU TO DO! lol.
Take Jody from WeldingTipsAndTricks. Guru incarnate. Want to shave months
off your learning curve? Go watch that guy.
If the shafts both descend further from the horizon line (0°), they are
said to both be going "down". They are negative values. If the shafts both
go up-hill above 0°, they are said to be going "up", and are positive. In
either of these cases you SUBTRACT the larger angle from the smaller angle
and that's your pinion angle. If one shaft's value is positive and one
negative (an up and a down shaft), you ADD. I'd have made that a forum
post, but nobody reads forums anymore. :P
Well, I gotta make all this look pretty and waterproof and come up with an
e-brake cable bracket. I have another video that's half-way done that I
need to finish so I can clear up some hard drive space that's been in my
way for 2 months. I have the brake lines in the corner of the garage, and
just need to bend them. I need a poor man's alignment so it will roll, and
in all honesty I've been stockpiling for the GSX. There may be a
forthcoming 6-bolt build series.
Hopefully I can keep it in a straight line! No power steering. But yes, you
understand why I'm doing it! I have less than $2500 in on this project so
far, and its go-fast parts are hand-me-downs from the previous GSX build
(which made 421awhp the night I blew it up). Of course my GSX was 9.5:1 and
the Colt is 7.8:1... but I suspect I can make a street legal car that runs
10's eventually... and still gets 26-28 MPG hwy. That oughta ruffle some
feathers.
It's made by Wilton. Sadly it's been discontinued. :( It's a 2-angle
combination vise. One side has straight jaws and the other has pipe jaws. I
bought it at Lowe's about 6 years ago, and I recall they changed brands.
All the multi-angle vises they sell now are machinist vises. The only thing
their bench vises do anymore is swivel and clamp but they're built even
burlier than this one. Still. You can't rotate them 360° like this old one
does.
You are correct; however... if I showed that technique on-camera as the
recommended method, my comments and likes would suffer each time someone
started a grease fire. It would be irresponsible of me to suggest it. Axle
grease is flammable, and it doesn't take much to light off. It takes far
more effort to put the fire out. Most people breaking these bolts loose are
doing it because the boot is ripped and they're leaking grease.
I just spent the weekend watching (some) of the colt series. (I only went
back 2 yrs and took a few side trips) While I'm not into racing or hot-rods
in general, I LOVE watching how other folks modify things to suit their
purposes. And I almost always learn something from them. GREAT VIDS!! I
probably won't subscribe, but I will definitely check back on the progress
of the colt! Gotta love redneck engineering!! :))
So do you just keep recording and then think about everything you are going
to say? I tried that... it didn't work for me! haha. Like record what
you're going to say, after you recorded the footage, and make it match? Or
just talk while watching the recording you made? It's so damn confusing. I
find it easier to just KNOW when I plan on speeding up the footage and shut
up at that time.
It's a very bad idea on a transverse-mounted AWD car. When you mash the gas
going forward, both the engine and rear end "look up". On a straight-drive
car you can get away with it, but an AWD transverse-mounted drivetrain
needs to have a slip joint in it to absorb the shift in torque angles on
both ends. A straight drive engine torques side-side rather than front-back.
Step 1. Equipment Step 2. Ideas + blind determination. Step 3. 10.90 @
122mph. If you want something, you absorb it. Self taught means only that
you figured out who to pay attention to. If you put it to practice, that's
when the real learning happens. That's why Step 1 is equipment. It's not
the knowledge, but the ideas that motivate you.
Yeah, I gotta make all new brake lines. I didn't keep the old ones off of
either car, and I'll probably just try to mimic what a DSM has and do a SS
kit for the last foot so everything's bolt-on. I'm going to run a 1/2" fuel
line for this thing. Just in case I ever need it. ;) Thanks for finding me!
Boy are you in for a treat!
That is one knowledge and wisdom-dense video, 'fro. Especially love the
wisdom about keeping U-joints at a minimum angle to prevent freezing up and
keep lube circulating. That's one of those "of course!" moments that most
noobs would fail to think and most experts would forget to mention. Your
thoroughness is marvelous.
I don't know if you have thought of this or care to do so, but you should
put a seizure warning on the videos where you do a series of tack welds in
your elevated speed sections. Was killing my head and I don't have any
history of this problem. Just an idea I thought I would pass along. Keep up
the good work Jafro!
I think its great that u mentioned the driveline angles because most dont
know that u cant have 0 angle and expect a u joint to last. As far as a
multiple piece driveshaft goes u can have about 6 degrees with the
suspension loaded so the 2-3 degrees is great for that. Keep up the good
work!