1998 honda accord timing belt kit Videos

+Samuel Qassom Top dead center means exactly that, on the compression stroke. I use a long thin screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole and turn the crank while watching it rise then start to fall, then center that spot. You don't have to do it this way though. You should be able to line your marks up on the crank gear and cover to find it, then check your cam marks to see if they are still lined up.  When you reinstall a belt, new or used, it is very easy to move a tooth or two while the belt slack is taken up. You need to do yours again, turn the crank manually at least 2 revolutions then check marks again. Keep reinstalling till it comes up right every time.

+shelbydogg First, thanks so much for the quick reply!! Helps me out a lot!! And I appreciate you taking the time to detail everything.My problem is, I made sure I was TDC on the cam gear and pulley when I took the belt off... But not so much when I put them back on. I looked at the top and that was still TDC, so I assumed the bottom was as well. I put everything back together and the car stayed on for about 2-3 seconds and died. Same thing happened the second time. I stopped trying to start it because I assumed something was off... So, I guess my question is, I didn't make sure I was TDC when tightening it down, how do I correct that?

+Samuel Qassom When you put your belt on, you should have aligned the pointer on the crank and  block to top dead center and the top pulley has lines that line up with the head. Look it up on youtube or a sevice manual. They all show you where the marks should be.     Mine would start then die a few seconds later. I knew the marks were dead on when I put it back together. When it died the next day, I rotated the crank to top-dead-center, looked at the top pulley, and the marks were not aligned anymore. I loosened the belt tensioner. moved the cam gear one tooth to align the marks, then put it back together. The next day, drove it to the bank about 20 miles away, left the parking lot then it died and would not stay running. Pulled the cover again and the marks were off again. This time, I wanted to find out why.  When you watch my video, you see me pushing the tensioner against spring pressure after the center bolt it tight. It should not move at all if the tensioner "stop" is rotated like I show in the video.  Good luck! Let me know how it turns out.

You're welcome. After mine jumped twice, I had to find out why it was doing it.When you get a new tensioner it comes with a clip to hold it in place. If you don't change the tensioner and just the belt, you may not know to rotate the sliding plate that keeps the tensioner tight. A new tensioner is not always needed.