This is a Rochester qjet carb that is being tested on a running engine. This was filmed on an ipad2. www.carburetorsandmore.com.
7043202 Rochester qjet corvette carb
This is a Rochester quadrajet carb that is being tested on a running engine. This was filmed on an ipad2.
1969 Rochester qjet carb
Mark d Rochester corvette carb
This is a Rochester corvette carb that is being tested on a running engine. This was filmed on an ipad2.
Quadrajet Electronic Carburetor Rebuild - Teardown Part 1
//www.carburetor-parts.com. Mike's Carburetor Parts has provided this video about the Rochester Quadrajet, electronic version. Part 1 of the tear down ...
I have a 1989 Chevy caprice wagon with this carburetor on it, it has been
rebuilt, burns rich and I have not a clue on how to adjust it. the city I
live in does not have many garages that know how to tune a carburetor
properly.
i have watched all of your videos on how to rebuild a carb and thank you
for you " step by step " rebuild videos.. now i dont know how to set the
fuel mixture screws so that it doesnt run rich or to lean ? how do i set
them
Where can I find a new electronic choke for my carb, my local shop keeps
trying to just jerry rig the choke to work and I'm ready to just replace it
and move on
How to rebuild a Rochestor Quadrajet part 1
Introduction and beginning the disassembly process.
JUST WANTED YOU TO KNOW YOU DID A REAL GOOD VIDEO ! I WAS A OLD MECHANIC
BACK IN THE DAY ! I HAD FORGOT SOME OF THE STEPS AND YOUR VIDEO WILL MAKE
THIS REPAIR MORE CORRECT ! OH AS IT WOULD HAPPEN I AM WORKING ON A 1986
DODGE POWER RAM [W-250] 4X4 ! THANK YOU YOUNG MAN !
I love your quadrajet videos. I have watched others who are eloquent
speakers with a high production value but yours are easily understood. I
have rebuilt 4 with no problems. Keep up the good work. I appreciate your
effort. Big Bob from Rossvegas
Thanks for the video.....if I hadn't watched it I wouldn't have known where
that choke lever went, the one that comes up through the body, and the tape
idea worked a treat.
Also I had the needle valve spring hooked up,wrong, I put it through the
hole!!
I thought there might have been a new seal for the power piston in the kit
Thanks mate.
Well i have just rebuilt my quadrajet. And i have 1 left over part. Not
sure where it goes hoping you could maybe help me identify it so i can
figure out where it goes. So if it possible i would like to email you a
picture of the part.
Your video's are really informative! Thanks for posting them! The reason
I'm looking through them is.....when driving, everything performs well, no
bogging or hesitation. I can shut the car off, and crank it back up
immediately, and it cranks with no problem. I can also let it sit for much
longer (like an hour), and it fires back up with no problem...but...when I
shut it off, and it sits for about 10 minutes, it won't fire. I have to
be careful not to wear the battery down trying to start it and just let it
sit. Usually about a half hour and it will start right up. Would you have
any guesses as to what's going on? Thanks!
+WhoSaidTyler Thanks a lot! I'm starting to DIAGNOSE it now. I will get a spark tester and eliminate that as a possible problem, and move on from there.
Try never to make guesses. Problems like these can be diagnosed by simply thinking of the 3 things an engine needs to run, at the right time and in the right amount:1. Fuel 2. Air 3. Spark.What is happening in the space of 10 minutes to cause a no-start? The first thing I consider is heat soak. When you turn the engine off, the temp goes up 30 degrees or so for a little while, then cools down. So, likely that either the fuel is boiling(vapor lock) or the ignition system is conking out.My instinct tells me vapor lock since there don't seem to be other running issues mentioned. I suggest buying a spark tester, and then try to create the situation where the engine will not start. When that happens, pull a plug wire, pop the spark tester in place and spin the engine. If you see results in the spark tester then you know your issue is fuel related, and not ignition.After that you can evaluate the carb to determine whether the problem is flooding, or vapor lock as I said. Now you can DIAGNOSE and not guess :-)
Hagalo Usted - Desarmado de un Carburador Rochester QuadraJet de 1966
Rochester QuadraJet Desmontaje Este video muestra como realizar un desmontaje completo de un Carburador Rochester QuadraJet (Q-Jet) de 1966.
Excelente video, pero nos dejas picados para cuando hagas el video de como
armarlo o al menos si hay un libro que nos diga paso a paso. Tengo un C10
1969 y compre otro carburador Quadrajet pero es de BUIK segun el
codigo1708543 1385 lo curioso es que estaba en una Chevy Suburban Saludos.
oye buen video...yo tengo un carburador igual y me gustaria limpiarlo y
restaurarlo....donde puedo conseguir el kit de reparacion de un caburador
como este en mexico?????donde es mas comun encontrar empaques para este
carburador???
there is a vacuum breaker which i disconnect then set the secondary air
valves to a mild firm mode - not too sloppy (this is what causes secondary
lag) not too toght - (insanely rich) - this setting varies from engine to
engine, what works for one engone wont guarantee it will run the same on
the next... QuadraJets are sensitive to the engine its on.. manifold vacuum
etc once set to that engine you're dialled in.. knowing carburetion will
give you holley beating performance and economy everytime
@RhondainIndiana Hi,there.You are right the secondaries are way to loose!
see people think they should open up just buy hitting the throttle in park
which it does not work that way.When you have it in gear and hit the
throttle they should open not to fast or to slow a happy medium.the way
this guy has it setup i guaranteed when he takes it out and smashes the gas
pedal it will bog and fall on it's face that's just my opinion.(*?*)
The 'moan' of a q-jet is caused by those massive secondaries opening up.
When just tooling along you are basically running on a very small and
efficient 2bbl carb (the smaller primaries in the front of the airhorn.
When you get down on it ... the vacuum and linkages open up the massive
secondaries - the added volume for gas and air creates that beautiful growl
or moan you are talking about.
-You probably have the needles in the secondary stuck or a vacuum loss
somewhere screwing the secondaries,maybe power valve stuck(very
common),you'll have to open the carb and reassemble,once it's clean and
neat you'll have a carb that's gonna work fine for a long,long time.
In neutral the air valves won't open on smaller engines - like most small
blocks. Even with a big block, they are hard to get open. It depends on the
bleed rate in the choke pull off and the tension in the air valve spring.
That's the point... if the air valve opens too fast, the mixture goes too
lean for a moment and you get a bog. If you want your air valves to open
faster and not have a bog, you have to use richer secondary metering rods.
Motors, like the 350 stock barely needs 550 cfm. Quads are 750 cfm. And
they operate on what the engine needs. so on small blocks the secondarys
will open half way. If you force secondaries to open sooner it will bog.
i wondered too,i have an 86 cutlass with a 307 and a quadrajet and when i
mash down on the throtlle it creates that very beautiful sound,i love it!
i'll always have a rochester on my cutlass,no holleys or carters!
not to bag the carter product, they were a sweet carb, shat on holleys and
i rate them highly, i only wished they hade a metal main, as engine temps
tahe their toll on bakelite
hey sweet vid i bet that sucks the gass hard core with the seconds opening
fast lol thats why i set my to open later lol check out my vid and tell me
what you think.
Taking a chevy g-van for a ride with the engine cover and air cleaner off.
Ahh between the sound and the show of those secondary butterflies opening
is pure bliss!
What is it that creates that deep sounding noise on these quadrajets? I
always thought since I was a kid that was the coolest sound in the whole
world, even today!
drop the vacuum link to the secondary airvalve lockout, raised the metering
rod hangers 2mm and adjusted airvalve spring tension to be firm - tweaked
on the dyno