Nevill Forbes (1883-1929) eventually became Professor of Russian and Slavonic Languages at Oxford University. Before then, he was a reader there in those ...
Thanks for writing. Yes - after the 1917 Revolution, I understand that the Cyrillic alphabet was slightly revised or rationalised, and a small number of characters ceased to be used. I believe I even read somewhere, that Lenin had intended, eventually, to abolish the Cyrillic alphabet, and introduce the Roman alphabet, much as Kemal Ataturk introduced the Roman alphabet instead of Arabic, in Turkey in the early 1920s. Trivial - but fascinating - facets of history! Best regards, Norman.
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Feld Hell QSO, simple Hellschreiber video
Feld Hell QSO I was working on my Feld Hell presentation for Pacificon Oct 13, 2012 and I screen captured this QSO with Scott, N0IU on 14.063 MHz. You will ...
Great video as always. I have never tried this mode but think I will give a
try using the DM780 software and my IC-7800 with a Signalink USB. 73 de Bob
AJ5C
Ham radio makes the world small -- my perminant home is 15 miles outside of
wentzville, and I've passed by N0IU's house a time or two. Nifty! 73 de
N0SSC
//www.mslaw.edu Are we now an over-credentialed world? Have we lost the idea of individual initiative being all you needed to succeed in America?
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How to Properly Adjust and Use a Vibroplex Bug
The Vibroplex "Bug," also known as a "semi-automatic" key or "speed key," has gained a poor reputation amongst some radio amateurs because many who try ...
How does it oscillate? Nothing really to do with the screws, rather the
design of the long arm going from the finger paddles out to the damper.
That arm isn't a single rigid rod, rather it has three pieces. The middle
piece is a very short section just between the trunnions and the dot
contact. It is a flexible piece of metal, like a small piece of a hacksaw
blade, maybe 1/4 inch long, just enough to allow oscillation. Pushing on
the dot side on the "front half" of the long arm causes th
@grnzbra Hello: Thank you so much for your interest in the video, but I am
a bit confused by your post. You are suggesting the 11 to 15 thousandths is
a large gap and you are recommending 1.5 thousandths. Are you sure about
your measurements? An ordinary piece of 20 lb bond paper is 0.003 to 0.004
inch thick and you are recommending a gap of one half the width of an
ordinary piece of paper! This is certainly not recommended. Viewers should
stay with the recommendations in the video
Thanks for the nice comments and question about learning both codes. It's a
bit like knowing two different languages and I rarely mix them up. There
are many men and women active on the Morse Telegraph Club "land-line"
networks (MorseKOB and KB or HN Telegraph Hubs) who use both codes. I agree
with your elmer. Become proficient with a standard (straight) key, develop
a good sense of rythm and spacing, then learn to use a bug. Have fun and
think "CW forever!" 73, Jim, WB8SIW
Thank you kind sir for this video ! I just got my 1946 Vintage Original and
I tried to adjust it for at least two hours on my own ! Was using a .010
gap and thought that was cool. Anyway, after I saw your video, I had it
correct in about 10 Min.! 30 years ago I had my first Original, also used,
and gave up on it in disgust ! It took me this long to get interested in a
bug again. Yes I am a Ham, Extra Class, don't mind my screen name please.
Thanks again !
Jim, thank you so much for such a clear and concise video of this subject.
I've had two vintage bugs (a 1940's National Telegraph and an 80's
Vibroplex Chrome) that I was getting almost nowhere with, until tonight
when I came across this video. I had sent on other bugs (almost) just fine
but I just couldn't get the adjustments right on my own keys, using a
text-only description.
73 and dit-dit!
Jack, K6JEB
...Amazing ! ...you have turned a one-hour haphazard adjustment in to a
precise 5 minute setup...I really like the part of setting the dot contact
spacing by just making contact with the dot contact on a floating but
static pendulum...I have used the ohm meter technique in the past and
keying the dots to about half scale on the ohm meter...but I must admit
your technique is waaaaay simpler !!! thanx Ronnie K0XY
Thanks! I strongly recommend that all new CW operators first learn to send
good, clear, concise code using a straight key. This allows one to learn
and fully integrate the sense of timing and rhythm required to be a
proficient CW operator. Learn to send good readable code using a straight
key first, before learning to use a bug, electronic keyer, or any other
semi-automatic or automatic device. 73, Jim
WHY would you learn both Int and RR morse code? wont the two get mixed up
in your head? I love your vid! You have worked at learning both types of CW
and you should be showing off! You have a freat Fist on a bug! My elmer
says stay away from a bug until im at 12-15WPM. Im at 20 and have a cravin'
for a bug!!!!!!! TU OM --... ...--
Wow Jim... Great explanations. Thank you. Was referred to your video by
Troy, W6HV from the Yahoo Vibroplex group. Was hoping though that you would
cover the dits adjustment blade/contact.. My dits are not consistently
starting right away the first time. Thanks, Pierre, VE2EBP/BG@MorseKOB
Vibroplex keys are still manufactured and the company web page has a nice
chart, which one can use to cross-reference a serial number against date of
manufacture. Check "Date Your Vibroplex" on the Vibroplex Company web page.
It appears your key was manufactured about 1949. 73, JW
I'm getting a '56 vibroplex champion soon. I'm new to CW (took the code
requirement going away for me to get interested HI HI) so it was be my goal
trophy of sorts until I get skilled enough with a straight key to warrant
the step up. Great video, 73's KC9FJE
Excellent! Thanks. I was in the midst of bug-adjustment woes (S/N 193899
ca. 1956). I have used it for forty years, and the "bug gremlins" have
somehow recently gotten it all out of adjustment. Thank you for concise,
straight-forward, practical instructions!
Thanks. Got a 100th anniversary bug (jeweled), used, from Vibroplex
yesterday and yours was the first video I found looking for instructions.
Also found an online manual over at BAMA. Took as long to set up as it took
to watch your video. 73.
i checked my army technical manual for the adjustment of the front stop
screw and you are right on, vibroplex just says start with a large gap, i
like ur way but everyone is different but 1.5 thousands is probably a
misprint. nice video.
I have looked through youtube and the internet but noone answers the simple
question what makes the key oscillate for the dots. I know springs are
involved but that can't be the only thing involved here. Can someone please
explain this??
Nice job on the tutorial. I am new to CW and was wondering if there was
anything barring me starting on the Vibroplex Bug. I love the design of
these instruments and they seem very precise. Thanks for any replies, 73
Dave
Thanks for the video. I've never owned or used a bug and because of that
I've always been a little unsure of how they worked. This video not only
shed some light into how to use a bug but also setting it up. Great stuff!
Terrific video. I have a bug just like yours that I purchased, and last
used in 1974. I just had it refurbished at Vibroplex and now needed tp
learn how to adjust. Perfect! Thanks so much Jim!! 73, Bob - W2TAC
In reference to the viewer (ID "grnzbra") recommendation to set the gaps to
1.5 thousandths; this is too small. I recommend viewers stay with the gap
spacing recommended in the video. Thanks! Jim, WB8SIW
Jim, A good demo on how to set up a bug.I couldn't get my head round the
American morse.The quick brown fox reads"The fuiiek beieewn reel"When read
as international code! Well don. Sandy
Thanks for taking the time to post this video! I'm very new to CW so the
bug is out of my league for the most part but I'm using the dash as a
straight key until I get faster. .
Jim, Thank you for the video. I just bought the twin to this bug, and
through your vid, found it all out of adjustment. Now I can use the thing.
Thanks again, KA8KCR