Mitsubishi Libero w/ 4g63t Conversion wont run right :S
Hi guys, please HELP :( I have a Libero/Lancer here. It has a 4g63 motor installed. Using TD04 turbo, VR4 loom, Evo 2 Computer, Evo 3 Air Flow Meter, HKS ...
Get rid of that air filter, you are not letting that motor breathe with the
shield around it. Take the shield out and get a Blow off valve even if you
use a 1g DSM it will work fine. Also that little pipe on the valve cover is
the PCV which should be hooked into the intake manifold and also speaking
about that, get rid of it and either get a EVO1-3 or USDM 1g DSM intake
manifold because that cyclone intake mani, isn't doing you any good, trust
me. I have been in the DSM/4g63t game long enough.
I also have the washer bottle etc installed now. Ive even been able to
drive it around as it is to take it for a warrant of fitness. I just cant
really get the car to go fast at all, gauge shows 10psi, but car sorta
stutters and holds back and doesnt really make use of ANY of the boost
showing. Even forcing it back out the Pod filter. I have a BOV fitted now
too. It has a 500HP foelpump, and seems to use lots of gas
Yo.... i have a bero, and i used to plug off where the blow-off valve goes
and it would make the same noise you have there... it's called compressor
surge. to fix it.... hmmmm, you sound like you're in nz... just grab a
factory blow off valve from any wreckers, fit it the right way around, and
your problem will be solved. the computer/air flow meter rely on the
factory plum-back valve
Hi there, thanks for comments. Yeah I have removed things, like the
Charcoal can etc, but all the vital hoses are connected. There are no
leaks, as ive removed all of the piping for the intercooler and checked
vacuum leaks. Did find a couple small ones but nothing major. Still
happening. Does anyone know if bad timing can cause this? Im gonna get it
checked tommorow.
Ok yea high idle...try getting someone to adjust the idle screw for you....
but before that you need to find the proper bolt where you have the piece
paper because that will cause over heating and high idle as well, and you
might need to get a blow off valve and a vacuum hose kit, cause that
chattering sound is compressor surge not good for a stock turbo
Yea defiantly need a vacuum hose kit, as you have no hoses and i don't see
a blow off valve so you might need to purchase one of those as well...just
some brands (HKS, BLITZ, GREDDY, APEXI) and get a proper set of spark plug
wires and spark plugs as well preferably NGK wires with NGK BPR7ES and gap
them to .25mm.
Hi there, thanks for that. Im going back to the car (its in another city
lol) and hope to get it running well enough to drive home. I have a hose
connecting the breather to the intake now. I also havent been able to get
the timing very close. ANy tips on getting that close?
They are D2. Front and rear. They even 36 way adjustable in the rear.
Theres still more to lower in the back, but becuase of stupid Libero setup,
the springs arent captive when jacked up, but I have custom made keeper
springs.
If you need any more info on anything, to be afraid to give me a buzz, I
don't mind helping people out with problems like these. I actually like
challenges like these because I'm really good at figuring these things
out,lol.
I have a 04 endeavor that makes the same racket! I live in idaho and I have
had it for 7 years. We have some nasty winters here (-15/20 degrees) and
wonderful summers (90/100 degrees). My pig/endeavor has always made this
noise, however, I notice it the most in cold weather. When it gets to be
over 55 degrees and I turn it over I don't hear it. I don't know what
causes it but doesn't seem to effect the car itself. And as said by someone
else when it does get warmed up the sound goes away. Any professional
suggestions?
THE OFFICIAL TRAILER OF FAST AND THE FURIOUS 4 {5 June 2009 USA) movie Vin diesel street racing illegal race "fast and furious 4" ladies fast,new,real, ...
Untuned CrucesStreets.com EVO 8 - 12.76@ 104.9
My '03 EVO 8 running at El Paso Speedway. Owner: Stock Driver: Jeremy Bowman. Mods: 2.3, FP3065, Exedy twin metallic, 680's, 255, FMIC + pipes, etc.
Bro, did you even read the video's description? I listed the "big" mods for
all to see, "untuned" doesn't mean "stock", it means UNTUNED, as in
throwing parts on a car doesn't make it fast, the tune does. What makes you
think I'm trying to say I'm "completely stock"? Lay claim as the fastest
EVO in town? Where do you get this shit, nowhere in the video or the
description do I imply anything close to me being the fastest. Stop putting
words in my mouth. evo8blue works with me, he's talking shit
you guys dont know shit about tuning and un-tuning how can you tell stock
What he has and what he does not have like he said "untuned" doesn't mean
"stock" it simply means the car is not tuned to it's potential it really
has. The guys that are running there mouth's need to do your home work and
learn the meaning's of what words mean. "Tards"
What's there to not believe? a stroked and big turbo'd EVO running a 12.7
at only 104mph? Do your homework, guy.
Exhaust Shield Rattle Fix Part 1
Ever have a rattle under the hood? This is a possible fix for manifold rattles or catalytic converter rattles. This does assume there isn't damage on the actual ...
Pretty surprised at your videos! Really good quality for someone just
starting out. I have a rattling exhaust too, but mines actually a heat
shield on the floor. It's aluminum, and I think it corroded since it
touches steel. I was actually going to take the bolt out of it, and throw a
big washer around it. Think that would do the trick?
+DE Nichols Yeah, it's right up against the floor on the cab, and the frame is blocking me from getting anything bigger than a screwdriver up in between the two. Hopefully the washer trick will fix it.
+DE Nichols Yeah, I live in the US. I actually tried bending it once. Helped a little bit, but I can't bend it anymore without it pointing down at an awkward angle.
+***Classified***If you're in the Northern Hemisphere like myself, you may not mind the extra heat for now, but I suspect that heat shield will be greatly desired by summer.Most of the time, when I get a rattle after working on something in that area I can easily bend it to get rid of the rattle permanently. Sometimes it takes a few tries, but those shields are sometimes very easy to bend.
+DE Nichols Thanks for all the info. It rattles like crazy on the highway. At first, I thought it was a loose shield on the catalytic converter, especially since I had just replaced it. Got under the truck and banged on everything exhaust wise, and come to find out that it had corroded around two bolt holes, with the bolts still in the floor of the truck! I may just go ahead and pull the whole shield too, but I'd rather not since it's a one piece unit running the whole length of the cab. I've heard tons of ideas, ranging from total replacement, all the way to cutting it off with a sawzall, lol.
+**Classified** Thanks for the compliment. If there is wiggle under the bolt a washer could get rid of the spacing. Or if the washer could go under the heat shield it may give a more consistent surface. If that doesn't work they do have rubber washers, depends on how much heat it has to take, but it'd deaden vibration more.I know in electrical connections in houses, that when they go from aluminum wire to copper it creates corrosion. I've always figured it has a similar effect elsewhere on corrosion since metal always has more ions flowing than nonmetals. An active circuit just speeds it up.They sale a chemical to help in a home, probably not probably helpful in your situation, but it was a fun tangent of information :)
+wtbm123 At least I can power everything but that welder. Makes me think of Ericthecarguy not being able to work on a car, have lighting, and shoot at the same time without throwing circuit breakers at times, but these things can be overcome. Not that I'll ever be professionally outifitted like Eric, but success stories inspire. :)
Thanks. I want people to get out there and do and not just watch. I've learned tremendously from your channel and others. They've helped me do more, and I want people to take that as far into the real world as they safely can.
Mitsubishi Eclipse 2004, V6 3.0 MAF sensor Fail
First start up of the day, Mass Air Flow sensor is failing.
Hey man curious to see if you could help me out, would you know which MAF
sensor comes stock with an 03 eclipse gts? mine is failing i cant seen to
find the 482 anywhere all i find is 501 i bought the car used so i was
wondering if the MAFS were swapped from another mitsubishi?
My 95 Jetta is doing the same thing your Eclipse is, only I get the full
rpm range. But it does idle terribly, and it dies if I give it too much
gas. I noticed that unplugging the maf sensor makes it run a bit better,
might only be for my car though
Well... Actually it was able to rev over 3000 rpm but so investable. I
think here the most interesting is the ""rebound" effect after a fast
throttle push. After replace MAF sensor... problem was 100% solved. Thanks
for your comment. Regards.
HEY LASOLUCION ES LIMPIESA DEL MAF;IAC Y CHECAR EL TPS Y DESPROGRAMAR LA
CON PUTADORA DANDOLE DESCONECTANDO LA PILA UNA HORA Y CONECTANDO Y DESPUES
5 VESES ALA LLAVE Y LUEGO CONDUCIR UNOS 10 O 15 MINUTOS PARA KE SEPROGAME
DENUEVO
This is happening to my 03 Eclipse, except a whole lot worse lol. Having it
replaced in the next couple of days, my bank account didn't like the total
cost of repairs though! Hope it solves my issue as well!
My car is doing the same thingonly i have a 03 gt, how much did u pay to
get the replacment? and would getting a cold air intake just resolve the
issue or does the cold air intake need the same MAS too?