Subaru outback overheating no heat Videos

Each to their own, i prefer the standard style as well however i give my costumers the options of buying their own parts so it is what it is, and to be honest i see this on all style thermostats, stuck open, stuck closed, in peaces you name it fail safe or not, otherwise we would never need to replace with whatever style you choose, the part number from the one removed actually matched gm oem not 100% sure what they use, what i can say is i used many fail safes without issue

When it comes to coolant its reccommended not to change coolants expecally on deisels, but when it comes to going from dexcool to green not biggie, but green to dexcool big no no, dexcool is very acidic and can destroy seals, hoses, gaskets, bin there and seen it done... but if you do go from dexcool to antifreeze(green) drain the whole system, flush with water then add the green cololant and check strenght, mixing the 2 turns into a brown colour.

I have a 1996 C1500 4.3 liter. It was running at 160 degrees. So, I dropped a 195 in there, the temp would spike to 195, the thermostat would open and flood the motor with cool fluid, dropping it like a rock to 150. Didn't like that, so, I just dropped a 195 Stant Superstat in which is supposed to open and close gradually to maintain 195. Well, it simply holds at 160. It might even be the same part I first removed. Enough is enough.

I agree, i see more issues with vehicles using dexcool, personally i recommend switching to green after major repairs or flushing, never the other way around, stay the same or switch to green that's the only two option i give, he has an appointment to have the entire system flushed next week along with some other repairs, this was a quick in and out

Take notice before i pull the old t-stat the black seal @ 2:07 then check out the new t-stat @ 3:14 see the black seal around the t-stat on this model thats the seal/gasket all in one makes life easy :) i also try to explain this @ 4:12 i could have been more clearer, thanks for the feedback

when it gets hotter there is less ... if i unscrew the screw underneath it wont come all out... by the way thanks for all your help . i am happy to have found a person who helps people out. you are a good person . lol .. i hope you had a great weekend.

THought I left a comment, so ill say something again, Fail safe thermostats are junk, they give you what yousaw when yo first looked a the one that was in this vehicle. Several manufacturers even have a notice out on not using them for this reason.

best tip of this whole thing is the way to pour antifreeze out a bottle.....ive been pouring it in the wrong way the whole time, sideways jug pour works great man.. I enjoy watching your videos. very informative and professional.

Good job explaining open/closed loop operation, no way I would add "universal" type coolant with Dex-cool still in the block though, if they don't play nice your customer will be back to blame YOU if it gums up the radiator.

way to g on letting them buy their own and i agree, each to heir own. Didnt mean any disrespect in my last post, was just passing on my thoughts and info i got from the manufacturer of my current vehicle, enjoy your weekend

@robinsonauto hey i have no heat. thermastat is new, air blead. when u warm up car should the temp knob b on cold to let temp build or hot to allow circulation of coolant?

Gotta watch it with the antifreeze tho fella. can run universal if that's all ur running but that calls for dexcool and that stuff turns to jello when u mix it

Sweet new video. Very excited to change my own in my truck. I like to test my skills with anti freeze too! I just never trust funnels to be clean enough.

The software shown in the video at the end is cool. Does it work off of the OBD-II connector? And is the software available to the general public?

You explain things very well. I knew about open and closed loop conditions, but your details have been screen saved by me. Thanks again

And what program are you using on your laptop? and how much did it cost? are you using an OBD2 to USB plug? or whats the set up?

Very nice fix as I also guessed "Stuck opened thermostat" in last video comments. Your oncoming videos seems to be interesting.

Its all good, most dealers are strictly OEM for obvious reasons, not that there is anything wrong with that, Have a good one

most chevys do best on just standard green but u can't mix these together if u wanna switch it over flush it first

Thank you sir. yes you did your supposition was correct good job! thanks again your feedback is appreciated

Its a possibility, however i have found 180 thermostats installed more than once, for whatever reason

Super-easy thermo. replacement. It took some digging to get to the thermo. in my Dodge truck

hmm ive binb thinking of buying a program myself, you just using an OBD2 to USB cord?

Is it normal for that clutch fan to wobble like that? That doesn't look too good...

I like your light.Is it a full kitchen size florescent bulb? Love your videos .

I didnt see you put a gasket on there...maybe I missed it? Good work Will!!

They have two options wireless or wired, i have the wired obd-2/usb

is it normal the fans on these 5.7l vortec run all the time?

P.v.a works great... Just pour about a gallon in your gasket will seal but then the engine will BLOW UP.. I can understand using these types of quick fixes but if you do use any of these ie steel seal/fibre lock/bars etc remove the thermostat and bypass the matrix if your a lucky one that quite alot of people are you should drain it out once leak is fixed and add clean coolant. Also double check how many litres your car holds alot of this stuff is designed for big American V8's so you will only need about half a bottle max. From what I've seen it does not work due to the incompetence of the people using it some get lucky. But if you do use this stuff I Def advise bypassing the heater matrix and removing the stat if possible. If not flush it the following day properly..

+John Sawyer You may have a valid point there.

this person had problems because they put the whole bottle in. i used a third of the bottle and it took away my problems

u sound like a queer

+DDEENY I had to continually flush for a few months to ungum my heater core and get heat back and stop the overheating problems but yes, I was no longer driver of a steam train

+Dan wyo I've had a similar experience with this product. Can you elaborate? Were you able to (or try to) flush the cooling system to remove the Sealer and successfully restore the cooling system's performance once the internal leak was "repaired" with the Sealer? Thanks.

+Edgard Colon

That's not what the instructions say Jose1976ize. Is a pour an go foumula and don't require the removal of the thermostat and is safe , that's according to the instructions. Now Blue Devil you have to take off the thermostat. I have to agree with the post, Fiberlock is not what they DOUBLE Money-back Guarantee! I used it on my truck, was recommended it by a mechanic, don't fix the leak on my gasket and end up clogging the cooling system. Even after flushing the system and changing thermostat, truck start to extremly overheat wend it was overheating about 20 degrees from the normal temperature. Repairs now will cost me DOUBLE. Oh and no double money back.

you're suppose to take out the thermostat when you add the k/w fiberlock to the upper radiator hose or in the radiator itself. so because you DID NOT take out  the thermostat causing the fiberlock to be obstructed of free flow so it can be  circulating thru the cooling system properly for about  45 minutes estimate ( 20 min instead). once u did that don't FORGET to put the thermostat back into the thermostat housing or goose-neck same difference.