A good tip to (try to)avoid being dropped in a climb (or any bike
situation) is to focuse your view and attention on the backwheel/tyre or
the rider that is just preeceding you and to stick to it,quite near, maybe
20,30 cms,when the group is in a regularly paced run, of course : just look
down at his tire or on the road or gear cassette and nothing else and
you"ll realise that after a while you 'll find yourself a bit better and
need to slow down a bit every now and then not to touch his backwheel with
your front wheel . Inconvenient: a loss af situationnal awareness with the
risk of crash by touching his backwheel if he brakes or stand suddenly on
the pedals and the lack of scenery as you ride literally mesmerized in this
tunnel vision.
is it just me (and I'm sure it is...) but is your front chainring oval!!??
i.e, not round?! I'm sure this is a camera trick, but it does occur to me,
that and oval chainring might give you a very hard gear for some of the
rotation and an easier on some, i.e is this a possible good idea for
sprinters or climbers to use a harder gear, just on the downstroke??
fair enough!! thanks for the explanation, thats such a good point about the transition, still, despite all this, id still like to try them as long as i didn't have to pay ;)
The idea is that at the point the chain goes oval the mechanical advantage suddenly increases making the final part of the stroke easier. This doesnt take into account the fact that it takes more effort to turn it back onto the flat part again. The effect feels like stomp stomp stomp. It's far better to learn to pedal with a smooth circular action using clips or spd type pedals, The pros get paid 10s of thousands in sponsorship to use products wether they like them or not. Look for noval or doval chainrings on ebay see how you like them.
Egg rings was another aftermarket make and they sure were egg shaped but they soon went out of fashion. Gimmicky stuff like this was very popular in the early years of mountain biking. String spokes was the stupidest, but I'm sure the fools that paid out for them thought it made them ride better. I learned all the bollocks when I sold this stuff in the old days.
+marcus allison Biopace sg chainrings were in fashion for a couple of seasons about 20 years ago and they went out of fashion because they didnt do any thing in the real world.. I've been selling bikes for almost 25 years and lots of stupid ideas have come and gone just as quickly.
+joe varga after some research, its clearly more efficient as you have very little power on the "drag" at the bottom, thank you for such a friendly, useful and interesting response :)
+marcus allison It is oval. I think it is designed to make someone more efficient throughout the entire leg stroke (down stroke + Up stroke), as Brad uses them and so did Froome during the tour I think. But it I can't comment on whether it gives a harder gear on the downstroke.
+Mark Cunningham You don't exhale lactic acid, but you do exhale CO2, a product of lactic acid breakdown. So yes, inhaling to get the oxygen is important (he didn't say stop breathing in), but it's also important to get rid of the excess CO2. This is why free divers hyperventilate before diving - it blows off CO2. Although their reason is slightly different, they want to clear it because the build up of CO2 is what makes you want to take a breath, not lack of oxygen as most people would think.
+Mark Cunningham The exhalation phase of breathing is tied to the parasympathetic sytem, so if you prolong your exhalation, you'll lower both heart rate and perceived exertion. Rather than increasing lactic clearance, you're actually improving lactic tolerance by reducing perceived exertion. Being able to tolerate the fatiguing effects of lactic buildup is likely the reason why people think they're clearing lactate faster through breathing.
its complete bollocks, lactic builds up because of anarobic respiration, forceful breating doesn't mean you exhale lactic acid? You only diffuse a small % of the air you inhale so doesnt make a difference. Lactic acid is broken down by oxygen hence why you go from areobic respiration to anarobic you undergo oxygen debt. Don't accept everything at face value
How To Ride Steep Climbs Like A Pro
Following on from our "How To Climb Like A Pro" video, we bring you a piece on the art of cycling up steep climbs - an essential skill. Subscribe to GCN: ...
The steepest climb I've ever ridden is the steepest street in the world in
New Zealand at 36% gradient at its steepest point... on a loaded touring
bike!
It works too. Another tip for a REALLY steep climb (and when you're feeling the pain) is to go out of the saddle, take 3 or 4 pedal strokes, then just stand and pause for a second on the pedals, then repeat.
The first time that I used clipless pedals I attempted a 25% climb, I
ground to a halt and forgot about the pedals and fell in a muddy ditch at
the side of the road.
+Ray Farrow Stalling on a climb and then falling over is probably part of the initiation of swapping to clipless. We've probably all done it.
Cycling Training Climbing when training for cycling
Http://www.cycling-secrets.com for more tips and tricks. Http://www.bikestyletours.com - See The Tour De France Live! And for the most comprehensive range of ...
I strongly disagree with your foot angle comment towards the end of the
video. I found it is very helpful to use my ankle muscles to push on the
pedals during a tough climb, much like applying gas when driving a car. The
added muscle makes it easier to keep cadence RPM's up and minimize fatigue.
There must be some benefit to my technique as I am known as a strong
climber on our club (over 100 members). Another valuable technique I have
adopted but don't hear much about is to focus on breathing out and that
helps control all breathing and lowers my heart rate at the same time. By
that I mean completely emptying my lungs assures deeper and more efficient
intake of air, allowing more oxygen absorption.
Otherwise, I found your video enlightening and informative. Thanks
Peddle correctly with cadence.Instant tip to climb hills is to change the
rear cassette to a larger one-I went from 11-28 to 11-32. Bigger one will
give U a granny gear to go up hills, slow but sure & give U more of a
breather.for endurance ,do short out of the saddle bursts to do the last
1/4 of a hill. My 22 # bike is heavy but can't spend the cash for a lighter
one. Only been biking 2 mos. Yesterday did 41.6mi. Just bike a lot using
high cadence on flats. Just takes time, use supplements.
@KittyKranker the small ring on most road bikes isn't that small, it's
usually 34 or 39 teeth. It's also harder to change the front gears on a
hill. It does depend on how gradual sloping the base is though. It also
doesn't matter a few seconds at 125rpm spinning under load you can make
quite good power, often equivalent or more than standing. I don't get on
well with standing at any reasonable cadence though, it tires my legs
quickly. 70rpm is okay on flat but you will bog down on a hill race
Yeah, I try not to drop into my lowest until I am at least halfway up my
heartbreak hill. But, some days, with the heat especially, I just drop as I
begin to ascend. And when I do get off, I walk as fast as I can up the rest
of the hill to hop back on and go. I figured out that it's not my legs
giving out but my breathing--so, I'm working on that. Rode eight last
night, but still only twice up the hill. But I'm getting better. . .and it
is a freakin' blast, isn't it? Best thing in my life!
Ugh. Youtube is full of expert cyclists, but what about us beginners? I'm
glad--even envious--of those people who can ride 20 in a day or simply
"ride up hill." I'm pushing for ten miles a day and only at 6, now. And I
have a hill that is KILLING me every single day. I can get up it twice in a
row as I loop, but after that, it's walking. It took me a month just to get
up it ONCE. It's depressing most days, but the comments here are pretty
condescending and not at all encouraging.
Riding a hill when ur fresh is OK ,When you got multiple long inclines
after doing 15-20+ miles is hard. Get as big a rear cassette as possible.
You will instantly feel how much easier those hills become. Too bad we all
can;t get light carbon bikes with the right gearing. Mine is 22# with Mavic
Ksyrium wheels which roll better. I think Bikes with a Triple Crank r
better for hills if having the right gearing. My Defy 5 is only 8speed with
a compact crank.
I'm just seeing this, now. You are so kind to take time to provide me with
advice. I already have clipless, but I've been doing much better lately. I
built up my cardio a bit more after realizing that it was not legs getting
tired but lungs burning. Slow but sure! I will definitely take your advice
in the other comment when I purchase a new bike in the next couple of
months. Thanks so much again.
Not realy helpfull this video, when you approach a hill you won't think of
all these theorys. The only think you'll think of is putting the chain on
the smaller blade. Positioning of hands is personal, and depends on the
effort you do. Positioning of foot: well by experience I can tell you you
angle it automaticly. This said, go out and train instead of trying to
remember all these 'tips'.
fixed gear is good because they are generally cheaper and easier to
maintain. If your stereotypical hipster fix rider can afford a $1500+ bike
he may not ride fixed. I have BMX, MTB, Road and Fixed, love them all in a
different way, but the Fixed gear is just my general ride for going to grab
a bite to ear a few miles away bike. In the end, the important thing is
riding is just fun
I have been cycling for about a month now. It is pretty flat where I live,
but there are a few little hills. It is kind of annoying to slow down so
much but I usually have to drop to a much lower gear to get up hills. My
main goal on hills is to not get off my bike, even if that means I go
slower than I would like. I do have lots of fun though.
Ha. Indeed. Though, for now, I use the videos and some comments in order to
learn as I get better. Especially when it comes to climbing! I'm learning
that many cyclists are a li'l snooty, though, so I'll just take my time, do
my thing, and keep pushing myself towards a goal. Peace!
@OFFENSIVEWORDS I hope your able to overcome your smoking habbit! Most of
the time people start it because of stress....I wish you could of found
biking because you started cause its a great release for stress. Its a
dirty habbit for your body too so thats good you'll give it up.
I found out by accident that if you slide your saddle more to the front
direction you'll manage to lean more on your steer and so are able to put
more power to the pedals and also gives a better climbing feeling and
performance. If this actually works for you too, let me know !:)
@Change438 Yeah, he's very rigid. Must burn a lot of energy trying to keep
the bike from rocking. However, at the end of the day, it comes down to
comfort. Everyone is different and it seems to be working fine for him,
which is really all that matters.
@HariVIyer then you'll wear out the big ring,the chain the inside of the
frt. der.,most of your cassette,the CHAIN, and the jockey wheels and you'll
have no reply if someone "SPINS" past you... It's hard to Jump on the BIG
RING, and catch anything...
@MHMarks Since always. If I'm riding 23mph on the flats I don't want to try
and maintain 23mph on the hills, it's not efficient and will quickly
destroy the legs. Keeping your power output steady throughout a race will
always give the fastest time.
Works, but it's relative to your measurements. If you put it too much
forward you'll lose power again. You have to let a proffesional (from a
shop or so) measure you and ask to put the saddle etc on the right place.
This gives the best result.
dont you want to keep your chain strait? i would switch the rear derailer
cogs first THEN change the chain wheel gears. i under stand it would be
little time that the chain would be slanted, but theres a way to have it
strait the whole time..
good grief, cycling today is full of techy nerds, just get out on the bike
ride it lots get to know whats right and natural for you, give up drinking
and smoking and look after your lungs! the more you do the better you'll
be... end of.
@dead4fun - why does anyone stare at car accidents? When I saw the title I
was intrigued, could there really be something I had missed - or are people
really that dumb. Mostly its the latter - but it holds a morbid
fascination.
Forgot to post this earlier. Get Clipless Pedals. They will get you to
learn how to peddle more Efficiently. I am Serious, they make a BIG
difference along with the larger rear cassette. Started 2 mos ago, my first
road bike.
You know you are getting better climbing when the only people passing you
are that skinny dude doing 15 mph or that old crazy dude riding as if he
has found the fountain of youth.
I have a weird way of climbing: hands on the drops, out of the saddle and
moving left and right by about 2 feet and in a big gear lol. A little
unconventional but it wins me races :)
@ownyourworld So true. Many people spend too much time on the internet,
whining and watching videos, and don't realise that the only way to get
faster is to get out there and train.
How To Climb Like Alberto Contador. 3 Cycling Tips On Climbing Like A Pro Cyclist.
My cycling tips for weight loss ebook is here. //www.30bananasaday.com/page/durianriders-lean-body-bible All the best tips you can get that I have learned ...
+George Corbin I found 39/23 to be sufficient for 10 mile climbs up to 6% to 7% back when I was averaging over 400 miles per week. I usually rode solo, and when the gradient got above 7%, I struggled with my 39/23 granny gear. I usually rode solo since I had a hard time finding guys who wanted to go on 100 mile training rides in the afternoons. I used to average 13.8 to 14 mph. up a 10 mile 6% average grade that was within riding distance from my home. Today, I don't know how I did it. I never had anything other than a 53/39 crank and a 11-23 cassette. There was a 13% average grade of about a mile in length that I tackled a few times with that setup, but I sure was beat when I got to the top of that hill. I think I only managed about 6 mph. up that hill in 39/23. Today I know why I preferred the shallower climbs of 7% grade or less. It wasn't because of my weight. since my body fat was 3% back then. I thought it might have been my severe scoliosis or perhaps my type 1 diabetes. Now at 53 years of age I think I have figured it out. I think it was the gears I had on my bike. Only wish I had figured it out when I was at my peak. Living at the foothills of the Cascade mountains, I would have been wise to have thrown on an 11/28 cassette, but I never figured it out. Now I live in North Carolina and I still enjoy riding. I'm only doing about half the distance I used to though.
He also used it for most of the second half of the Giro 2011, but that inlcuded the Zoncalon and other very steep and long climbs. He does usually use 39-28t but it's important to remember he's drafting behind a large number of very good cyclists whereas most of us are lucky to have one or two weekend warrior guy to draft behind.
I want to climb like Alberto Contador. I'm workin it currently. Just hit a
nice PR today on Strava on my hardest climb in the area.. always feels
good!!!
+interspool Wish I had Strava when I lived near the Cascades.
How To Climb Like Alberto Contador
Alberto Contador is one of the best climbers of his generation. In a GCN exclusive, he explains his training and climbing style and how you can climb like ...
+Ken Meyerno, i dont tell this :)All Profi-Cyclists have talent.....i dont have this talent......but i am sure.......and the last one in a tour de france is doped........it is my oppinion.Sorry for my bad english.
+kallikratia79 so you want to to tell us that you can climb as fast as him, if you'd took the same amount of dope you suspect him to consume?! That's ridiculous!
the most important take away from this video is that Alberto is remaining
us the importance of training your body and fitness for riding out of the
saddle-which is ultimately the best weapon to break away, sprint, climb,
respond to a rival's attach-pretty much what makes cycling more exciting.
I've always questioned why in the last 20 years, there is this overemphasis
on riding in the saddle, as the holy grail of high efficiency & energy
saving way - yes there is the data to support it- but I truly believe that
we have not had emphasized enough on making our bodies more efficient
enough to move the bicycle standing up- which is by our biped nature where
we should thrive or feel more effective-rather than a crunched position
that constrains us. Superb video guys- please continue the great work.
cheers
Do you have any tips for how to climb best when on a fixed gear? Because I
ride an aero fixed gear and I have trouble riding on the smooth mountain
roads around my neighborhood due to some of the hills.
+Doug Hawkes yeah so far my legs are strong enough to kick ass up hills not even I thought I could get up.. by far. So I'm getting there (leg strength.) From december to February my bike will undergo major modifications and weight reduction, mostly tt parts. That should help a bit.
+Campbell Gildersleeve There's nothing to do on a fixed gear except become stronger or walk the bike up the hill. That's the disadvantage to a fixed gear bike. They are simple and inexpensive, but not versatile. I think they're great for playing around on and commuting, but yeah they'll be insufficient for long hills or going really fast.
+Josh Ross Either have someone with a power meter build a profile for you or check the manufacterer specs. The trutrainers have such a chart, look up their website, but it won't be the same for your trainer. You only need speed for this which you can measure on your wheel, gearing and cadence gives speed too.
What a great video. The end is great. As for power, I wish there was something that could analyze power on the rollers based on cadence and gearing. seems like you'd be able to get a pretty good idea with no elevation or wind resistance and it should be a simple formula. Can't find anything though.